S&W 460V issues, need help.

GunGuy34

GunGuy34

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I bought a brand new 460V from Wanstalls recently. Just took it to the range today. Fired 60 rounds.

I noticed that now and then the cylinder would be hard to get out, like it was stuck. I figured it was just cause it was hot. I was just shooting factory 200g Hornady ammo as i dont reload.

When i got home i noticed the firing pin, stays out! With each pull of the trigger the firing pin stays out and doesnt go back in. You can push it back in with a flat piece of plastic, but soon as you pull the trigger it comes out and stays out. I know that is not right, and I have no idea how to fix it. I may have to send to Murray, but want to see if others had that issue first. Here is a pic.


 
If the firing pin easily retracts under pressure, its unlikely that is causing the difficulty you are experiencing, although IMHO, it should retract into the frame. Check the ejection rod and ensure its screwed tight all the way in. When the ejection rod loosens, and begins to unscrew, it increases the length of the rod and rod and typically results in difficulty opening the cylinder.
 
I had this problem with a couple of my revolvers, honestly unless you dont mind half a headache i would take this problem to either a gunsmith or a smith wesson factory tech. revolvers are a pain to get back together

Boomer said:
If the firing pin easily retracts under pressure, its unlikely that is causing the difficulty you are experiencing, although IMHO, it should retract into the frame. Check the ejection rod and ensure its screwed tight all the way in. When the ejection rod loosens, and begins to unscrew, it increases the length of the rod and rod and typically results in difficulty opening the cylinder.
Click to expand...
 
Boomer said:
If the firing pin easily retracts under pressure, its unlikely that is causing the difficulty you are experiencing, although IMHO, it should retract into the frame. Check the ejection rod and ensure its screwed tight all the way in. When the ejection rod loosens, and begins to unscrew, it increases the length of the rod and rod and typically results in difficulty opening the cylinder.
Click to expand...

Ya thats not it, first thing i checked as ive had that issue before. The firing pin should not stay out, it will retract all on its own after each pull of the trigger. In this case it will not.
 
Some guns do not use a return spring on the firing pin. They just rely on the round nose of the FP to kick it back when the action is operated. So before you panic and assume that it's the firing pin that is locking up the cylinder check to see if the FP on the 460 is supposed to be self retracting.

In fact it's easy to check to see if this is the issue. Load it up with empty casings and dry fire onto the spent primer. Then open the cylinder. If it's tight then try it again but this time dry fire then #### it by hand and lower the hammer slowly so the FP isn't pushed into the next primer. Is it still tough to open?

If the FP is sticking in the primers it's more likely that it will show up as being difficult to index to the next chamber and not so much in difficulty in opening the cylinder. Issues related to opening the cylinder would be more to do with the ejector star not fully seating due to some fouling between the star and the cylinder or fouling buildup on the front of the cylinder dragging on the forcing cone. And given the blast from the cylinder gap that's highly unlikely. Do check your ammo after loading. WHen the cylinder is closed you should still be able to see a little light behind the heads of the rounds and the cylinder should have a small but noticable amount of end play back and forth. If there is simply no end play then this can be an issue.

And as mentioned if the ejector rod begins to unscrew it'll lock up the cylinder in a blink. And if the gun has been tough to open since new it's possible that the ejector rod is slightly too long or the plunger in the frame isn't pushing out the center pin quite far enough. With the cylinder open check that the plunger nose is out flush or even very slightly proud of the recoil shield area where the cylinder spring pin rides. And check that at the front end that the inner pin pushes out flush with the nose of the knurled collar of the outer ejector rod tube. If the center pin isn't moving fully for some reason the back that sticks out of the star could be dragging hard on the recoil shield. If it looks like the center hole where the cylinder pin goes has a rough and hard running track with a bruised center hole this could be the issue.


On reloading I just can't see most folks paying the cost for .460 ammo for long. Most of us have other things that could use that money. Given that you can reload the empties for somewhere around 50 cents or even less per round it sure would not take much reloading to pay back the cost of a compact and simple reloading setup. And then you'd be shooting for a far lower ammo cost.
 
BCRider said:
Some guns do not use a return spring on the firing pin. They just rely on the round nose of the FP to kick it back when the action is operated. So before you panic and assume that it's the firing pin that is locking up the cylinder check to see if the FP on the 460 is supposed to be self retracting.

In fact it's easy to check to see if this is the issue. Load it up with empty casings and dry fire onto the spent primer. Then open the cylinder. If it's tight then try it again but this time dry fire then #### it by hand and lower the hammer slowly so the FP isn't pushed into the next primer. Is it still tough to open?

If the FP is sticking in the primers it's more likely that it will show up as being difficult to index to the next chamber and not so much in difficulty in opening the cylinder. Issues related to opening the cylinder would be more to do with the ejector star not fully seating due to some fouling between the star and the cylinder or fouling buildup on the front of the cylinder dragging on the forcing cone. And given the blast from the cylinder gap that's highly unlikely. Do check your ammo after loading. WHen the cylinder is closed you should still be able to see a little light behind the heads of the rounds and the cylinder should have a small but noticable amount of end play back and forth. If there is simply no end play then this can be an issue.

And as mentioned if the ejector rod begins to unscrew it'll lock up the cylinder in a blink. And if the gun has been tough to open since new it's possible that the ejector rod is slightly too long or the plunger in the frame isn't pushing out the center pin quite far enough. With the cylinder open check that the plunger nose is out flush or even very slightly proud of the recoil shield area where the cylinder spring pin rides. And check that at the front end that the inner pin pushes out flush with the nose of the knurled collar of the outer ejector rod tube. If the center pin isn't moving fully for some reason the back that sticks out of the star could be dragging hard on the recoil shield. If it looks like the center hole where the cylinder pin goes has a rough and hard running track with a bruised center hole this could be the issue.


On reloading I just can't see most folks paying the cost for .460 ammo for long. Most of us have other things that could use that money. Given that you can reload the empties for somewhere around 50 cents or even less per round it sure would not take much reloading to pay back the cost of a compact and simple reloading setup. And then you'd be shooting for a far lower ammo cost.
Click to expand...


This isnt my first smith. I checked the ejector rod first thing. That is not the issue. The firing pin is self extracting, i seen it long before i fired the gun, as its part of the checks i do when i get a new revolver, is dry fire the gun to see if its properly indexing and that the firing pin is working. Right now i cant even close the cylinder with spend casings as the firing pin is portruding, i have to get a flat piece of plastic and push it in. I know that is not how the gun works. Ill call Murray here in a few hours when he is out of his meetings.
 
(((Echo))) said:
Just checked mine.....I'm good!

With the hammer cocked I can feel the firing pin move freely, and there's a fair bit of spring pressure as I push it in.

Yours?

(E) :cool:
Click to expand...

Ya mine doesnt, no spring tension at all, i think i got a busted spring. Just talked to Murray, have to sent it in, and it will be covered by warrenty.
 
I have an X Frame myself and it should not be sitting out... when you fire, the hammer falls all the way forcing the pin out, when you release the trigger the hammer cocks back a little to a safe position which also helps retract the firing pin... does your hammer pull back a little bit when you reset the trigger? has to do with the firing pin block / built in S&W safety
 
Well its on its way to Murray Charlton now. Told him the issues, he said its most likely the firing pin spring. He said it will all be covered under warrenty. Pretty bad for a brand new revolver, but i did shoot 60 rounds the one sitting. I think my teeth came loose lol.
 
BCRider said:
Some guns do not use a return spring on the firing pin. They just rely on the round nose of the FP to kick it back when the action is operated. So before you panic and assume that it's the firing pin that is locking up the cylinder check to see if the FP on the 460 is supposed to be self retracting.

In fact it's easy to check to see if this is the issue. Load it up with empty casings and dry fire onto the spent primer. Then open the cylinder. If it's tight then try it again but this time dry fire then #### it by hand and lower the hammer slowly so the FP isn't pushed into the next primer. Is it still tough to open?

If the FP is sticking in the primers it's more likely that it will show up as being difficult to index to the next chamber and not so much in difficulty in opening the cylinder. Issues related to opening the cylinder would be more to do with the ejector star not fully seating due to some fouling between the star and the cylinder or fouling buildup on the front of the cylinder dragging on the forcing cone. And given the blast from the cylinder gap that's highly unlikely. Do check your ammo after loading. WHen the cylinder is closed you should still be able to see a little light behind the heads of the rounds and the cylinder should have a small but noticable amount of end play back and forth. If there is simply no end play then this can be an issue.

And as mentioned if the ejector rod begins to unscrew it'll lock up the cylinder in a blink. And if the gun has been tough to open since new it's possible that the ejector rod is slightly too long or the plunger in the frame isn't pushing out the center pin quite far enough. With the cylinder open check that the plunger nose is out flush or even very slightly proud of the recoil shield area where the cylinder spring pin rides. And check that at the front end that the inner pin pushes out flush with the nose of the knurled collar of the outer ejector rod tube. If the center pin isn't moving fully for some reason the back that sticks out of the star could be dragging hard on the recoil shield. If it looks like the center hole where the cylinder pin goes has a rough and hard running track with a bruised center hole this could be the issue.


On reloading I just can't see most folks paying the cost for .460 ammo for long. Most of us have other things that could use that money. Given that you can reload the empties for somewhere around 50 cents or even less per round it sure would not take much reloading to pay back the cost of a compact and simple reloading setup. And then you'd be shooting for a far lower ammo cost.
Click to expand...

Im keeping my brass, but as most that know me well, know i never hold on to guns too long. Im sure after i run out of ammo and have had my fun, ill prob sell it.
 
Im keeping my brass, but as most that know me well, know i never hold on to guns too long. Im sure after i run out of ammo and have had my fun, ill prob sell it.
Click to expand...


In that case, you can throw in the spare brass when you sell the gun. A nice way to seal the deal.
 
FWIW, I bought one of these in December, it arrived with seriously defective cylinder machining (big scoring marks in the throats, I suspect from a burred reamer) and has been with Murray ever since while he tries to wrangle a replacement cylinder out of the S&W factory and over the border. I still haven't fired it.

While the 4.2" 686 I bought in November seems to be OK, in general, I'm seeing WAY more S&W QA/QC problems than ever before. I own 4 smiths (M&P9, 460V, 686 and a Model 10) and will probably not be buying another unless it's an older model.

Sorry you also had issues.
 
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