S&W 625-3...need help (pics included)

TACTICAL111

TACTICAL111

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Scarberia
625-3.

Just completed my usual cleaning routine (I do apologize as I'm a a bit of a wheel gun retard)

As usual, I sprayed with G96, left it to sit for a night, then commenced cleaning.

When I was using the brush to clean the cylinders, the entire cylinder assembly slid off.

DSCI0094.jpg


The shaft then slid off the cylinder.

DSCI0095.jpg


I have no idea what happened (apart from a good cleaning opportunity ;))

This is where I'm at

DSCI0096.jpg


Thought I'd query here before going any farther or calling Casey :rolleyes:

Could someone please school me ?
Cheers if that's possible.:cheers:

Rob.
 
^^ From what you all have said, I removed the screw and found no damage on the screw or the receiver (it will tighten up firmly)

DSCI0099.jpg


If what I understand is correct, if I place the cylinder & shaft in place without the the set screw and firm the screw in place afterwards, there is a good chance everything should be good to go ( basically a backed out screw)

Am I on the right track?

Thanks.
 
You are on the right track.
Test fit to make sure nothing is really wrong. Install arm, spin in screw, do NOT tighten. Is arm secure and free to move? Yes. Remove screw, clean all oil off the threads, add a drop of Loctite and re-install. Enjoy.

(E) :cool:
 
BLUE Loctite at most. You may want to remove that screw fairly easily again to allow the depth of cleaning that you got to enjoy on this occasion. The cylinder pivot does get grungy and sticky over time and I find I like to remove the crane assembly and break down the pivot and ejector for cleaning about every fourth time I'm doing a cleaning on my revovlers.

For myself I don't use any Loctite. I pinch the screw tight with only a little but a firm torque. If it backs out I pinch it tight a little harder. It doesn't take long before you find out just how hard the screw needs to be torqued down to hold well without loosening up. And the final amount you end up using is less than most would think.

Using the least torque you need to get the job done leads to a far longer life for the threads and slot. So it's worth taking the time to learn what works.

That is one mighty fine looking revolver. The wood on the grips is particularly striking. Myself I like a lower lustre oil finish over what appears to be a high gloss varnish. But it's still a darn nice looking setup.

You got a supply of moonclips for it yet?
 
I wouldn't use locktite as you might remove the cylinder retention screw frequently for a little extra cleaning from time to time. That would be a hassle. I'd find a properly sized screw driver bit and check it for tightness each time you take it out to the range. Just a suggestion from someone who knows nothing about anything.... but that's what I do!
 
Constant tightening

I had two S&W's that constantly backed out the cylinder retaining screw. I was constantly looking at the screw so when it backed out, I would re-tighten it. What a pain! There had to be an easy fix right?
I would not replace the screw unless you really have to. And don't use any other screw except a S&W screw. If you can find one...
Blue Locktite is the best for this job. It's not permanent and a little dab will seal the job so to speak.
However, if you are afraid or don't have any blue Locktite, you can use a little clear nail polish. Works great too.
 
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