S&W Revolver: Performance Center or Not

TACTICAL111

TACTICAL111

CGN frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
37   0   0
Location
Scarberia
This may be a long post. Please bare with me :redface:

I have decided to scratch the wheel gun itch. Was going to do another build but have changed my mind.
I am a newb to the wheel gun world ;) So be easy on me.

Never owned one in the past, but have shot many different types multiple times.

Am interested in a 357/.38.

My sole interest is in speed shooting & speed reloading.

Had the notion of purchasing a 627 V-Comp from the performance center.

Had the opportunity recently to play with:

a) 686 six shot.....and
b) 627 Performance Center 8 shot (closest match to the 627 V-Comp on hand) with Chamfered Charge Holes & Ball Detent Lock-Up, etc, etc....

My impressions:

A) The 627 Performance Trigger was very nice but the 686 trigger (although not as nice) was very reasonable.
B) The 627 Performance Ball Detent Lock-Up was not easy to open the cylinder. It took a good tug to get the cylinder to open (wasn’t very impressed) The 686 was much easier and smoother.
C) The Medium frame 686 felt much better than the 627 Large frame

Secondly, in regards to loading quickly with speed loaders:

Would it make any difference in having Chamfered Charge Holes vs not ?

The difference in cost is:

686 - $895 (+ tax)
627 V-Comp - $1600 (+tax)

:confused::confused::confused::confused:

Don`t care about the finish, or looks, solely with performance in what I want to do, speed shooting and reloading on a .357, 38 wheel gun.

Any and ALL information from people with experience would be most appreciated. I have purchased top line products in the past and had them not meet ANY of the criteria I wanted.
Trying to get the right instrument the first time out ;) (if possible)
Apologize for the long post, but appreciate any input Thk
Plus....anything that would better suite the task at hand, please let me know.....

Cheers
 
Save money and buy yourself a regular K frame in 38 Special. Model 14 or model 10. Used, pre-lock one will have a better trigger than anything "Performance" today. There is no visible difference in speed between loading recessed cylinder vs standard one. It's all about the muscle memory really.
 
Like Nestor said, you will not really notice any difference with the beveled cylinders unless you are using full wadcutters and that is not likely in full out speed events. Factory guns can really only be improved by a good, just light enough trigger to get the primer fired every time and also by using a quality speed loader like Safariland Comp 3's.
You could get a revolver modified to shoot full moon clips and that would make for pdq loading but I would use round nose or swc and spring fired speed loaders and save myself a ton of money.
 
I think you have answered your own question.

The 686 performed very well for you & is half the price of the 627.

The 686 trigger can be easily improved with a Wolff spring kit.

I have owned a 4" 686 since 1987. It is one of my guns that I would never part with. :D
 
sombody has a 6 inch 586 for sale here for 4 hundred somthing. you won't find anything better than that. i have had a performance center pistol with removable weights in the underlug. its action was better than my brand new 686 however it was not any better than my older worked in 586 or 629 or model 17 for that matter. my resale on it lost me a good amount of money however i wasnt smart enough to sell it on cgn for more than new so my fault there.
 
i have fired both and i perfer the 627 Performance Center 8 shot. Being an auto guy, i was amazed at how i was able to hit 4" steel at 15 yards with rapid fire in DA. But i think you would be able to improve on the 686 trigger for much less than $1600. i also think the 627 just looks bad-ass.
 
bugsy_n_blue said:
Check ARMCO's site. They have good deals on Revolvers and can do some custom work to improve the looks and performance.
Click to expand...

While willing to help You may actually direct this person toward the business known of his less than honest behavior at times. That's why he's leaving this site now. Too many issues that the owner don't want to resolve or answer excusing himself with the same, usual stuff while holding someone's money. If You want a good gunsmith with good reputation go for Murray Charlton Enterprises located in Saanich BC.
 
Nestor said:
While willing to help You may actually direct this person toward the business known of his less than honest behavior at times. That's why he's leaving this site now. Too many issues that the owner don't want to resolve or answer excusing himself with the same, usual stuff while holding someone's money. If You want a good gunsmith with good reputation go for Murray Charlton Enterprises located in Saanich BC.
Click to expand...

I agree with you 100% How he acted on this forum will also tell you how he has acted off the forum as well at times.

Graydog
 
I went through the same decision making process you did. Was eyeing up the performance center models for a while but thought I'd go the custom route instead. In the end I picked up a cheap S&W m19 and sent it to MDCharlton. Here's my build list:

-Shorten Barrel to 106mm (Supply and fit Hi-Viz front sight)
-Install Crane ball detent lock
-Chamfer/polish charge holes
-Bevel front of cylinder
-Round butt conversion and install hogue roundbutt grips
-Action job
-Go over pistol, ex. Check timing, check that ejection rod is straight etc.
-Matte blue finish
-Supply and fit new insert for rear sight(all black). Widen notch to .155”
-Supply 3 – Safariland Comp 3 speedloaders

Been 3 months and I'm guessing I've got a few more months to wait but I can tell you I'm excited to get it back. It'll be a few bucks but it'll be a unique piece catered to my needs. Also for some reason I prefer a gun with a little history but that's just me.
 
JohnnyMac said:
I went through the same decision making process you did. Was eyeing up the performance center models for a while but thought I'd go the custom route instead. In the end I picked up a cheap S&W m19 and sent it to MDCharlton. Here's my build list:

-Shorten Barrel to 106mm (Supply and fit Hi-Viz front sight)
-Install Crane ball detent lock
-Chamfer/polish charge holes
-Bevel front of cylinder
-Round butt conversion and install hogue roundbutt grips
-Action job
-Go over pistol, ex. Check timing, check that ejection rod is straight etc.
-Matte blue finish
-Supply and fit new insert for rear sight(all black). Widen notch to .155”
-Supply 3 – Safariland Comp 3 speedloaders

Been 3 months and I'm guessing I've got a few more months to wait but I can tell you I'm excited to get it back. It'll be a few bucks but it'll be a unique piece catered to my needs. Also for some reason I prefer a gun with a little history but that's just me.
Click to expand...

Interesting project. Is the round butt preference of yours or is there any, other advantage of this design that I'm not aware of?
 
Thanks for all the advice people.

I have a another question: If I purchase the 686 with the 4.2 inch barrel and want to run moon clips, from what I’ve read, I will need the chamber modified (which I would be willing to do)

Which begs my last question: If this is the case, is there a reputable place in the GTA that could do such a service....properly?

Cheers guys.

Install Crane ball detent lock
Click to expand...

Could you explain further. The PC 627 had a ball detent lock up and I found it very tough to disengage the cylinder. Is the one you mentioned any different?
 
TACTICAL111 said:
Thanks for all the advice people.

I have a another question: If I purchase the 686 with the 4.2 inch barrel and want to run moon clips, from what I’ve read, I will need the chamber modified (which I would be willing to do)

Which begs my last question: If this is the case, is there a reputable place in the GTA that could do such a service....properly?

Cheers guys.



Could you explain further. The PC 627 had a ball detent lock up and I found it very tough to disengage the cylinder. Is the one you mentioned any different?
Click to expand...

Moon clips for .357 will slow You down. The real advantage of the moon clips is with 45 ACP round. Its short casing drops instantly into chamber...because it's short. With 357 which is much longer round You will experience "wiggle" while trying to drop it into the chamber. Speed loader will serve You better and improve your speed.
 
Nestor said:
Moon clips for .357 will slow You down. The real advantage of the moon clips is with 45 ACP round. Its short casing drops instantly into chamber...because it's short. With 357 which is much longer round You will experience "wiggle" while trying to drop it into the chamber. Speed loader will serve You better and improve your speed.
Click to expand...

Would shooting .38 Special alleviate this ? I suppose not.
 
S&W 627 V-comp 357

I owned one of these guns and think it's a top notch piece. It was remarkably accurate with 38 wad cutters and a pleasure to shoot with 357 full loads.

However there is one area where it didn't do well and that is with respect to speed. Getting eight 357 rounds into the gun could be frustrating as moon clips don't hold the cartridges sufficiently stable and precision is required. I tried "affordable" speed loaders and they were no better except with 38 lead RN which because of the bullet shape were the only rounds that I could load more quickly. There are expensive speed loaders available but if they work well, I wouldn't want to be bouncing those around on concrete range floors.

If I were interested in speed shooting, I would follow Jerry Miculek's lead and methods and likely use a six shot 45 as he does.
 
You may want to consider looking arouind for a good used S&W N-frame for 357 shooting. Pinned and Recessed, pre-lock models will serve you well.

If you're content with mainly shooting 38 special and the occassional 357, then a K-frame would work good for you. Again, pre-lock pinned and recessed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom