sako optilock problem

porpoise

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i have sako optilock rings on a sako a1 action. i have to adjust my scope all the way to one side to zero the rifle. i thought moving the front base back would have to move the base to one side as the fixed side follows the the taper but it doesnt seem to make any difference. i dont really understand this system and it seems kind of stupid. is there a way to get the scope fairly straight ive had it on another rifle and it seems fine
 
well i fiddled with it again turns out i gained about 6moa over the quarter inch or so i could move the front base back i guess it will do
 
why is there room for it to be in a different position if it should be all the way ahead. it wouldnt make any sense to have that travel and the taper could just be a stop instead like a weaver. which begs the question why is there a taper on the rear mount when it has a stop anyway. i dont doubt you are right since i cant make any sense out of the rest of the system anyway
 
It is a very simple strong and heavy system. It is designed to be installed with the back base all the way forward to the stop and tightened, the front can anywhere on the taper where it will tighten. If your scope adjustments are not adequate perhaps your scope should be checked out. Perhaps use a gunsmith to check it out. On rare occasions I have had to shim the dovetail... at which point the rings should never be removed as the shimming will change.
 
why is there room for it to be in a different position if it should be all the way ahead. it wouldnt make any sense to have that travel and the taper could just be a stop instead like a weaver. which begs the question why is there a taper on the rear mount when it has a stop anyway. i dont doubt you are right since i cant make any sense out of the rest of the system anyway

If you put it where it can't go any farther it won't slip any farther under recoil. You put it where it can slide, it will slide. Its the old Murphy's "Anything that can happen, will happen" sort of thing.

I'm not a huge fan of the Sako system, though I have a couple that aren't giving any trouble. It's heavy, expensive for no real good reason, they should go to China to learn how to make ####ty screws (because ####ty is better than what they have), and the ring is married to the base with one screw that you can't keep an eye on or check.
 
I have a problem with the optilocks as well, my rifle is an older A1 Varmint in 222 rem. I have the rear base all the way forward as described by others, the instructions say the back side of front base should be flush with the front of the ejection port of the rifle. When I do this, and mount a scope in the rings, then stand behind the rifle while it is in a rest I can actually see the scope pointed to the left, I completely run out of adjustment before I can get zeroed. I played with it for hours and can not come up with a solution. I might have the receiver drilled and tapped for a picatinny base--GASP!
 
I have a problem with the optilocks as well, my rifle is an older A1 Varmint in 222 rem. I have the rear base all the way forward as described by others, the instructions say the back side of front base should be flush with the front of the ejection port of the rifle. When I do this, and mount a scope in the rings, then stand behind the rifle while it is in a rest I can actually see the scope pointed to the left, I completely run out of adjustment before I can get zeroed. I played with it for hours and can not come up with a solution. I might have the receiver drilled and tapped for a picatinny base--GASP!


I've got an extra old style set of ring-mounts that have windage adjustments in them if you get too stressed out.
 
I've got an extra old style set of ring-mounts that have windage adjustments in them if you get too stressed out.

Thanks, I actually have the same set of rings you mention. I thought I would update it and go optilock but I am going to go back to the classic rings and be happy. Anyone want a set of optilocks?
 
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