Savage 110 Long Range Hunter 338 Lapua

saskdude99

saskdude99

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I am struggling getting this to shoot. I have a 1" group at best (more often 2"+) which Savage Canada says is above their 1 1/2" standard. HAs anyone else had any difficulty attaining accuracy. I have 5 Savages and all are 1/3 to 1/2" guns.
I shoot them off a Titegroup Rest which I build so I know it is steady.
I have tried Sierra 250gr SBT to get a 1" best group. Most loads were 2-3 inches.
I yesterday tried Hornady 285gr Match and they were all aver the place 4" groups.
I have used RL25, H1000, US 869, V165, N560, IMR7828
I have a Sightron 8-32 MOA scope. Warne 30mm rings.
Any ideas?(Keep the "sell it" to yourselves)
 
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Does it still have the factory plastic stock? If it does then that answers alot of it. Also you have a factory barrel on there so its kind of luck of the draw, you can get a factory barrel that shoots a quarter moa or one that shoots 3 moa....
 
I have the 110BA and I found that the 300 grainers shoot much better then the 250's. Check your action screws also. There is a write up on how to tune the action screws to get the most out of the rifle. I believe the two most forward screws were tightened to 35 in/lbs and the rear screws was tightened to 10 in/lbs the a string of shots were fired, then tighten the rear screw in 5 in/lb increments untill you see the groups tighten up. With mine the sweet spot was at 35 in/lbs. What jump or jam are you seating your bullets to?
My load for my 110BA is:
91gn H1000
300gn SMK's
CCI 250 Primer
3.708 COAL or something like that, I can't remember right now

accuracy was best at around 2800fps or so
 
You are lucky the gun shoots as good as it does right now with the pencil barrel and the factory stock. I would look at replacing those things. But once you start doing that you'll be pushing the price to into higher end 338s.
 
You should start over. Find the lands, start .010 off and work up from 3 gr below max in .5 gr increments. 3 shots each. Pick 1 powder, try all the different bullets you have, then try another powder. Load test at 300 yards,( 100yds for a 338 is like trying to race an F1 car around a gocart track). Best advice I can give ya.
 
Just checked the ACCUSTOCK and found a serious pressure point on the left front of the stock. I assume it is supposed to be free floated. Sanded it down and now I can run a paper underneath. Will take it out tomorrow.
 
timmy204 said:
You should start over. Find the lands, start .010 off and work up from 3 gr below max in .5 gr increments. 3 shots each. Pick 1 powder, try all the different bullets you have, then try another powder. Load test at 300 yards,( 100yds for a 338 is like trying to race an F1 car around a gocart track). Best advice I can give ya.
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Thanks. I have them .020 off the lands to fit the mag. I am going to 2 shot groups to find the tightness then work from around there. No sense firing a third shot if I don't need to.
 
Savage is hit or miss.. Mostly they are sub MOA rifles with proper hand loading.. But we have rebarreled Savages that simply would not shoot well. A new chamber didn't help.. rebarreled and accuracy was great.
 
I just got mine last week out and managed to get a 3 shot group into about 1/2" with the factory S&B 250gns. Went back out on the weekend to try again and try 200 (that's all the range we have in stoon). But when I reached up to adjust the side focus on the scope the whole scope moved. The factory rail had come loose. So now I need to get out and try it again.
 
Blygy said:
Savage is hit or miss.. Mostly they are sub MOA rifles with proper hand loading.. But we have rebarreled Savages that simply would not shoot well. A new chamber didn't help.. rebarreled and accuracy was great.
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I am not sure if I would describe them as hit or miss but my experiene is that many don't shoot as well as the groups that continually get posted here.
I have one I could post a couple of really nice groups from and then I could post the regular groups it prints.

I like savage rifles because we can switch the barrels easy but they ain't no panacea.

Thanks for the conformation.
 
Saw the western rep at Cabelas and got a bunch of numbers for Savage tech people. I am going to switch scopes and try something different. I checked the factory rail and it was solid. Who the FK knows? Gotta try something. I'm not too sure my scope isn't moving in the Warne rings. A friend says that I need to mount the cross slot under the Warne ring onto the front of the slot in the wider Piccatiny rail.
 
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