Savage 110 muzzle break

ndb86

ndb86

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So i've got a savage 110 in .30.06 for a hunting rifle i've had for years now. a few shots to sight her and and a shot or 2 a year to take down my deer, elk, moose, etc.

well now i've been taking her out to the range alot trying to make her into a sniper rifle and my shoulder sure get sore after a couple of boxes of shells.

where or how do i go about finding a muzzle break for her and how much money am i looking at?

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thing is i've got short arms. the rifle fits perfect as is. if i add a pad it'll feel uncomfortable. i've made my own out of different materials just to see if they would help so that i'd know before buying one and i couldn't find anything thin enough that woudl actually do anything.
 
That barrel you may find just a bit light for using as a target gun, it will heat up very fast, and that represents tremendous wear on the throat.

I might suggest you look into a drop-in barrel with a heavier contour. Talk with Mystic about one of his Shilen barrels. You could also use the opportunity to change cartrige types (such as going to a slightly less punishing .308, or even a 260) since the barrel has everything pre-cut. Brakes are good, but they are not without their down-sides. I would really not suggest discharging the rifle without hearing protection.
 
From what I've gathered one drawback of the brake is sometimes a shift in point of impact when you remove them. Someone else will know more than I about that or if the amount is even large enough to matter. The reason I brigh that up is fumbling with ear plugs when you spot your deer is not an option and you will regret shooting a braked rifle even once without plugs. It's friggin LOUD. You might as well be on the wrong ride of the muzzle. Practice with the brake on, hunt with it off.
 
hmmm thanks guys. I'm not really a fan of modifying my guns horribley. aside from my sks all my guns are stock and i'd like to keep them that way. I was hoping someone knew of a bolt on option for a brake. i don't want it rethreaded or rechambered. I like my .30.06 as is... it's just my shoulder doesn't. so i suppose my best bet is to go buy a .223 or .308 that is already breaked or one that is better designed to be breaked.

well thanks guys....

btw what woudl it cost to have mine threaded and breaked. are there any smiths lurking you can give me a quick estimate?
 
I asked a local shop for a friend they said $350 including he brake and machining, you can also get thread protectors that will hide the modifications when the brake is off
 
I had a rifle similar to yous in 300 Win Mag. It is a hunting rifle, but quite accurate, and I shot the occassional match with it, just for "fun". The "fun" wore thin with the pounding I took.

The solution was easy and cheap. I removed the butt plate and drilled a hole into the stock, much like the tunnel drilled into the butt of a Lee Enfield.

I then filled an aliminium cigar tube with molten lead. I am guessing it weighed a pound or bit more. When i dropped this tube into the butt, it went in so far there was a couple inches between the end of the tube and the butt. I flled this space with a 2" piece of spring (from a screen door closer). The spring is kept in place by the butt plate.

For target shooting, I use the lead tube. The recoil is divided into two hits, much like shooting a semi auto. Big reduction in felt recoil, because it is spread in time. Cost was nothing. No visibale change to rifle.

For hunting, I take the tube out.
 
why not get the stock cut to fit you with a limbsaver recoil pad installed? cheaper that a brake. my buddy has one on his 7mm, and it's a pleasure to shoot.
 
Bruno is right on. Shorten the stock and put a Limbsaver on it. 30 06 is pretty small for a muzzle brake and the Limbsaver installed will be less than half the price of the brake.
 
Brakes are an expensive venture, usually reserved for precision rifles or really hard recoiling thundersticks. A 30-06 in a sporter weight rifle would be better suited with a quality recoil pad.

Me
 
bruno said:
why not get the stock cut to fit you with a limbsaver recoil pad installed? cheaper that a brake. my buddy has one on his 7mm, and it's a pleasure to shoot.
Click to expand...

My vote is for this option. Limbsaver pad is great, esp if you get the stock shortened to keep the length of pull optimal to fit you.
 
i had the chance to shoot 2 300's exactly teh same, one with a break 1 without and the differance was definately noticeable. i am going to put a recoil pad on, but i'm also going to put a break on. teh guy who own the guns i tried does them and and he;s quite reasonable, plus he brought out his .338 for me to try ::): VERY fun:ar15:
 
I'm a little late to the party; but I would vote for the brake. Then you can add the properly installed recoil pad later (still a good idea).
For hunting; spend some money on a good set of electronic hearing protectors, srsly, you'll love them even when you aren't shooting.
 
Splatter said:
I'm a little late to the party; but I would vote for the brake. Then you can add the properly installed recoil pad later (still a good idea).
For hunting; spend some money on a good set of electronic hearing protectors, srsly, you'll love them even when you aren't shooting.
Click to expand...

already got em
 
You can have a smith install a nice limbsaver or such and adjust the length of pull. The stock will be cut but the finished product will look like a factory rifle with a good pad. You will never be able to go back to the original pad, but why would you want to!

my 2 cents.
 
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