Savage 111 FCXFP3 in .270

R&R Rancher

R&R Rancher

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Manitoba's Interlake
Here's the deal. I'm basically a shotgunner. As my handle suggests I ranch and have a need for a rifle that can be used to take care of predators or put down livestock. We've had wolves and black bears here. My old Ruger 77 in .243 was not always up to the job of putting down cattle. I need something that I can take with me in the tractor or truck if needed. No sense getting something with a pretty wood stock.

I bought a Savage 111 FCXFP23 in .270 from Cabelas today. After all taxes $470 and change out the door. I thought it was a smoking deal!

http://www.cabelas.ca/index.cfm?pageID=71&&section=1187&section2=1724&section3=1952&ID=4973

It's a package deal with a pre-mounted scope and a synthetic stock. I know it's a cheap scope and I may have to replace it in the future, but it will do for now. Now the questions.

Anyone have any experience with one of these?

I'll do a search, but is there a procedure to break in the barrel and is it worth it for a casual use rifle?

If the trigger pull is heavy, can it be adjusted by a good gunsmith?

Since it is a Savage, do I need to change my handle away from R&R(Remington and Ruger) Rancher:D?
 
You are going to find a TON of info about barrel break-in and all of it will contradict each other. I bought a Savage 111 in .270 this year and all I did was give it a good thorough cleaning prior to sighting in and at the range I sent about a 12 - 15 rounds down range and then cleaned it again and repeated. So far I've put 76 rounds through it and the grouping has tightened up quite a bit from the initial few shots.

Some people suggest a long a tedious process of fire, clean repeat for 10. Fire 2, clean repeat for 10 or 20 and so on..in everything I have ever read about doing this, I have yet to see someone do a comparison of the same 2 guns, same caliber, same ammo but different "break-in" process for each one, and then compare the results afterwards.
 
Ive had one of those in the past (with a boyd's stock mind you) and it shot very well, the trigger was adjusted by the time I got it and it was very good. Dont' think its a big deal to adjust but I didnt' do it myself.

I think it will give you good service on the ranch....I would replace the scope if you plan on using it as your main hunting rifle.

My barrel break in procedure is working up a load...never bothered cleaning after every shot or every 5th shot....not that Ive had many new rifles or that Ive had issues with this "technique".
 
I have this model in 30-06 and you will most likely be doing yourself a favour by replacing the scope. Other than that, it should be just fine.:) The trigger can be be turned down to a reasonable level, and don't worry about barrel break in.....
 
During my time behind a gun counter this is pretty much what I always recommended if your setup had to come in under $500. You're right, the scope is pretty bad but it's functional. Aside from that the rifle is decent for the cost, detacable mag in nice on a rifle in the price range. The stock is flimsy and the trigger is heavy still a good deal.
 
Hi. Your needs and skills are a whole bunch different from the rest of us. Thanks for giving us something entirely different to ponder.
"....243 was not always up to the job of putting down cattle..." Head shots? What bullet? Factory .243 ammo is usually loaded with varmint bullets. Under 85 grains. Varmint bullets are made to expand rapidly upon impact with little penetration. There are .243/6mm bullets made for deer sized game that expand as they penetrate. Your Ruger is made for deer. A Speer 105 grain SP or 90 grain FMJ, might put a cow down, fast, with a head shot. Mind you, the only thing I know about cattle is how to cook 'em and make stuff out of the cured hides. You're the expert.
"...know it's a cheap scope..." Yep. Simmons, as I recall. Low end, but entirely serviceable. You're .270 will deal with black bears, coyotes and wolves with no fuss. Moose and elk too with a 130 or 140 grain bullet.
Savage rifles are the best bang for your buck. However, your 111 FCXFP3 does not have an adjustable trigger. A smithy should be able to fix it without costing a pile of money though.
"...the job of putting down cattle..." Light 12 guage slug? Mind you, killing cattle would get me arrested.
 
The older 111FCXP3's had an adjustable trigger. You had to remove the stock to see the screw that sets the tension on the straight wire spring. Best not to back it off too far, or else you may have problems with the trigger not setting or holding. Replacing the wire with a lighter gauge piece of music wire from the hobby store works best. That's what I did on my 10MLII. It's trigger is just like the one I had on my 300WM package gun.
 
I have the exact same rifle you speak of.

As far as the barrel break-in, I dont do anything special. Put a box (20 rounds) through the rifle in 3-shot groups, letting the barrel cool in between, maybe clean every second group. I have done the clean every shot, then clean every 3 shots type thing but it hasn't made any difference in my rifles.

The trigger is an easy fix. It can be honed and polished by a proffesional but I replaced mine in 10 minutes with a timney trigger from mystic precision. I set mine to 3.5 lbs. Its clean, crisp, adjustable and very easy.

The simmons scope is crap, I would have one ready to replace it with. Mine broke from being on stand in -20 weather. After 3 days of cold, the next morning I looked through the cross hair and it was turned on a 45 degree angle. It now wears a bushnell 3-9 I got for under $200 and it works perfectly for me.
I also added an aluminum picatinny rail because very few scopes will span the gap of a savage long action without an extended base or 1 piece rail. The rail enables the use of a red dot aswell.
 
sunray said:
Hi. Your needs and skills are a whole bunch different from the rest of us. Thanks for giving us something entirely different to ponder.
"....243 was not always up to the job of putting down cattle..." Head shots? What bullet? Factory .243 ammo is usually loaded with varmint bullets. Under 85 grains. Varmint bullets are made to expand rapidly upon impact with little penetration. There are .243/6mm bullets made for deer sized game that expand as they penetrate. Your Ruger is made for deer. A Speer 105 grain SP or 90 grain FMJ, might put a cow down, fast, with a head shot. Mind you, the only thing I know about cattle is how to cook 'em and make stuff out of the cured hides. You're the expert.
"...know it's a cheap scope..." Yep. Simmons, as I recall. Low end, but entirely serviceable. You're .270 will deal with black bears, coyotes and wolves with no fuss. Moose and elk too with a 130 or 140 grain bullet.
Savage rifles are the best bang for your buck. However, your 111 FCXFP3 does not have an adjustable trigger. A smithy should be able to fix it without costing a pile of money though.
"...the job of putting down cattle..." Light 12 guage slug? Mind you, killing cattle would get me arrested.
Click to expand...

Sunray

Putting down sick or injured livestock in a humane fashion involves getting very close and using a head shot. Most cases around 20 yards. In one case I had a 2000 pound herd bull injured and could no longer stand. Using 100 grain bullets 3 feet from his head took 6 shots to finish him. After years of "service" he deserved better than that.

If it comes to removing predators, then the shots will be very similar to a hunting scenario. I'll need to put some rounds down the barrel to improve my rifle skills. As one fellow says, clean it, shoot it, smile. Repeat as often as you can.

John
 
FYI, the new 111 combos seem to come with Bushnell scopes. mine did anyway. Lifetime warranty. I believe the Simmons scope only came with older ones.
 
hmr-hound said:
I have the exact same rifle you speak of.


The simmons scope is crap, I would have one ready to replace it with. Mine broke from being on stand in -20 weather. After 3 days of cold, the next morning I looked through the cross hair and it was turned on a 45 degree angle. It now wears a bushnell 3-9 I got for under $200 and it works perfectly for me.
I also added an aluminum picatinny rail because very few scopes will span the gap of a savage long action without an extended base or 1 piece rail. The rail enables the use of a red dot aswell.
Click to expand...

Agree I replaced the simmons with an elite 4200 3X9. The simmons would not hold its zero. These scopes are junk, and will only cause frustration.
 
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