Savage 340C

Kali-Bullets

Kali-Bullets

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I recently aquired a Savage 340C chambered in .222. It is a nice little gun but okay accuracy. I've been reading that the best way to improve it's accuracy is to remove the barrel band, recrown, bed the stock and free float the barrel so this is what I plan to do. I'll have to braze a nut near the rear of the reciever to get a second anchor point as I am removing the barrel band. I got my bedding kit from brownells in and I have everything ready to go except I am hesitant to start punching pins out to remove the trigger assembly and for the life of me I can't find anything on the internet that shows how to do it. I can just see springs flying everywhere so I would like to see pictures/video of how to do it.

My other thought, which will be WAY easier, is to just bed the barrel and float the action leaving the barrel band on.

Thoughts/Suggestins/Help?
 
Kali-Bullets said:
I recently aquired a Savage 340C chambered in .222. It is a nice little gun but okay accuracy. I've been reading that the best way to improve it's accuracy is to remove the barrel band, recrown, bed the stock and free float the barrel so this is what I plan to do. I'll have to braze a nut near the rear of the reciever to get a second anchor point as I am removing the barrel band. I got my bedding kit from brownells in and I have everything ready to go except I am hesitant to start punching pins out to remove the trigger assembly and for the life of me I can't find anything on the internet that shows how to do it. I can just see springs flying everywhere so I would like to see pictures/video of how to do it.

My other thought, which will be WAY easier, is to just bed the barrel and float the action leaving the barrel band on.

Thoughts/Suggestins/Help?
Click to expand...

That has been done. Receiver ring and forward.
 
Kali-Bullets said:
I recently aquired a Savage 340C chambered in .222. It is a nice little gun but okay accuracy. I've been reading that the best way to improve it's accuracy is to remove the barrel band, recrown, bed the stock and free float the barrel so this is what I plan to do. I'll have to braze a nut near the rear of the reciever to get a second anchor point as I am removing the barrel band. I got my bedding kit from brownells in and I have everything ready to go except I am hesitant to start punching pins out to remove the trigger assembly and for the life of me I can't find anything on the internet that shows how to do it. I can just see springs flying everywhere so I would like to see pictures/video of how to do it.

My other thought, which will be WAY easier, is to just bed the barrel and float the action leaving the barrel band on.

Thoughts/Suggestins/Help?
Click to expand...

Kali Bed the receiver ring and barrel up to 1/2 inch forward of the barrel band. When installing the action screws install the receiver screw first and make it just barely snug. Then install the screw into the barrel band. Again just barely snug. If you overtighten you will set up stresses and not likely improve your accuracy (maybe make it worse). After the bedding compound has cured, remove the barreled action and clean up all excess bedding material. When re-assembling the receiver screw should be tight and the barrel band snug plus a little more. If you handload keep your loads backed off of Max and you might be surprized how well it will shoot. Hope that helps
 
You don't need to remove he trigger group for a bedding job. You can either wrap it in foil or plastic wrap or even plasticine.
You try more than one brand of ammo?
 
Yes I did sunray. Thanks for the advice both of you. I brought it over to a friend of mine today to take a look at it. I wanted to disassemble the trigger group anyways to give it a good cleaning (it was pretty gross) and do a bit of a trigger job as well, so we punched out the 4 pins and it was relatively easy to take apart (no springs lost - I hope it goes back together just as good). I am going to TIG a 1/4" fine thread nut at the back of the trigger group and drill a hole through the stock where the small wood screw holding the tirgger gaurd housing on was. That way it'll be supported in two spots on the reciever end. I'll post some pics as I go.
 
Kali-Bullets

pictures please, of your brazing job.

I have a couple articles on the same subject, and have taken apart a trigger group.... I think one can remove creep and possibly lighten pull a bit, but it is rumoured to be a not easy thing to work on
 
I gave it to my friend to put on for me. He felt that Tigging it on was the best option. He has had it for two weeks now. Fingers crossed he'll get to it next week. I'll post pics when I get it back. Are you able to send me articles?
 
Well, here it is. I am not pleased at all with my bedding job. I wouldn't recomend Brownells Acraglass non-flamable at all, it is way too runny and made a terrible mess, when I did my Mossin it turned out amazing - I wish I could remember what I used but I know I got it from Brownells as well. The rest I am happy with. Removing the barrel band was actually fairly simple. I ended up using a 1/4" fine thread bolt for the rear anchor point. I would like to go to Spaenaur and see if I can find a 1/4" UNF button head to use instead. For now I think it'll work great. Now to wait a few days to let everything cure, work up a load and take 'er to the range.

https://app.box.com/s/r05t17ndw2o8olv9i5tw
 
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Brownells have two bedding compounds, Accraglass and Accragel. Accraglass is a thinner compound, and can be very useful for repairing cracked stocks and such. Accragell is thicker and seems to be more useful for bedding barrels and actions. Many people have had success with Devcon as a bedding compound, and there is a "sticky" here on GunNutz on how to use it for that purpose.

Many, many years ago, I put a rear stock bolt on an old Cooey single shot that my father had given me. He thought I was nuts but changed his mind when he saw the accuracy I was getting out of it.
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I took it to the range last week and it fired off the first round no problem, 1" below the bullseye. All subsequent rounds failed to fire but had dimples on the primer. I thought I was getting a light primer strike because I possibly got gunk in the bolt. I dissasembled the entire bolt, cleaned it all up, adjusted the fireing pin protrusion, reassembled and still only a *click*. I don't get it. Everything seems to be working perfectly. Anythoughts? I am kicking myself for not leaving well enough alone!
 
Okay, I think I know what the problem is. The hammer is dropping about 3/4 of the way giving the illusion everything is working great but it is clearly binding on something for some reason. It's not the bolt because out of the gun it drops all the way no problem, it is rubbing somewhere on the gun itself, now to find out where. Either it is a very thin layer of that garbage bedding compound or something shifted as a result of the new rear bolt or reassemly of the trigger is slightly different. At least now i know what the problem is, just need to figure out how to fix it and find exact location of rubbing.
 
Hi. You likely need to do a trigger job anyway. Just changing the springs will make a difference.
Acraglas needs to be mixed just right. Sort of an oily peanut butter consistency is about right. Isn't hard to use, but a gel will always be easier. The running part of Acraglas is why Acragel was produced.
 
Thanks Sunray. I fixed it. It ended up being the bottom face of the striker was binding on the top of sear. When I reassembled the trigger it must have seated just a couple of thou deeper causing the sear to stick up slightly further when the trigger was depressed. I filed and polished the top of the sear very slightly and that fixed it. Works like a charm every time. NOW I can take it to the range .. :) I have become a bit of an expert on the 340 now not that it'll be much use lol. It was fun learning though.
 
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