Savage 99 accuracy woe and bedding question

hifiwasabi

hifiwasabi

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I have a 1976 vintage Savage 99 that was rebarreled with a medium contour hunter barrel in 338 Federal. I’ve been handloading for it with Starline brass, H335 and Speer 200 grain Hot-cors, but accuracy has been pretty disappointing at 3” groups being average. I bought three different types of factory ammo, and rested on a bag, the accuracy is no different. I was at the range with it last weekend and removed the fore end and shot a test group -instantly tightened up toa little under 1.5”.

I can see impression in the last 2” of the fore arm from the barrel; I’m wondering if I need to bed it or relieve the channel? I don’t see much info online about bedding the fore end on 99’s, or even BLR’s, 742’s and BAR’s; is it better to bed the entire length, or leave the last couple inches free from barrel contact? I don’t think a pillar will help, but I’m all ears.
 
Try a leather washer under the forearm screw, between barrel forearm. . I had a 300 savage that wouldn’t shoot less than 6”. I was at the range and only thing I could find was a pull tab from a milk jug. Cut a hole in it so the screw could go through and installed. 2 “ groups immediately due to a simple fix. I usually use 8 oz leather to make the washers.
 
hifiwasabi said:
Roughly what thickness and diameter is the leather washer? I’m also curious how you came upon such a solution.
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Took me about 4 hours of searching on the internet. The screw is pulling the forearm up and the front of the forearm is causing pressure on the barrel. Diameter anywhere between 5/8 and 3/4 “ with a hole in the middle for the screw. I work with leather so it’s what I use. I believe that plastic tab is still in my 300 savage. It just needs something to stop the forearm tip from touching the barrel.
 
These inherently aren't tack drivers, much like other two piece stock rifles with the fore end screwed to the barrel. I've had the best luck generally by bedding the entire length.
From there you can experiment with different loads, there will likely be one that is better than others, just depends how much experimenting you want to do and what degree of accuracy you are happy with. Searching for a sub MOA may be an exercise in frustration though.
 
I’d be ecstatic if I can get it to a consistent 1.5” group at 100 yards, but it would still be acceptable if 2” is all the rifle is worth. I’m going to try a donut between the fore end first, and if that Proves fruitless I’ll look into full length bedding.
 
smokinbarrel said:
These inherently aren't tack drivers, much like other two piece stock rifles with the fore end screwed to the barrel. I've had the best luck generally by bedding the entire length.
From there you can experiment with different loads, there will likely be one that is better than others, just depends how much experimenting you want to do and what degree of accuracy you are happy with. Searching for a sub MOA may be an exercise in frustration though.
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I don't think they're looking for tac driving sub moa accuracy. But 6inch isn't great, but when you can shrink it down to 2.5/3" with a washer, why not. For me it's the difference in hitting a 2 l milk jug or not.
 
Remington gas autos are likewise screw tension sensitive for accuracy.

My other question is your technique. I was always taught to rest the foreend on my support hand not a pad, bag, box or fence post. Benchrest shooting is one thing - sighting a hunting rifle is another.
 
I'd be disappointed with 2" groups out of a scoped 99. All you need to do is glass bed the forend tip about the last inch. Then once cured play with the forend screw. The one's I had all shot under an inch or better.
If you want to experiment take a piece of cardboard[flap of a box of ammo] and cut it to fit the last inch of the forend tip to create some upwards pressure. See if this helps first.
 
mbogo3 said:
I'd be disappointed with 2" groups out of a scoped 99. All you need to do is glass bed the forend tip about the last inch. Then once cured play with the forend screw. The one's I had all shot under an inch or better.
If you want to experiment take a piece of cardboard[flap of a box of ammo] and cut it to fit the last inch of the forend tip to create some upwards pressure. See if this helps first.
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I haven’t gotten back to shooting that rifle and putting a proper spacer in. My other 7 model 99’s shoot better due in part to trying different thicknesses of spacers and load development.
 
I will be starting with the cheapest option (leather donut) and moving up from there. Once it’s shooting consistently, I’ll be tweaking the load and maybe trying Varget or 748.

I had half a mind to order a Boyds stock set because it’s got the shiny birch stocks now, but I don’t want to spend hundreds of dollars if I can spend only a few.
 
Snider shooter said:
I haven’t gotten back to shooting that rifle and putting a proper spacer in. My other 7 model 99’s shoot better due in part to trying different thicknesses of spacers and load development.
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Let me know, mines put away ( know how much you love the barkhouse camo).

I def would have to load up ammo and get a baseline, then try stuff. I know I had ammo that in my Savage 12 would do under an inch. But alot of the issues I find those 99 have super thin barrels and heat up after a couple shots.
 
hifiwasabi said:
That’s the problem with most hunting guns; barrels are too long and too light profile.
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Well designed for low volume shooting and weight reduction. When I got the Savage 99E from my FIL that was his father's. Was a box of 308 from 2005 with only a couple rounds out of it.
 
hifiwasabi said:
I have a 1976 vintage Savage 99 that was rebarreled with a medium contour hunter barrel in 338 Federal. I’ve been handloading for it with Starline brass, H335 and Speer 200 grain Hot-cors, but accuracy has been pretty disappointing at 3” groups being average. I bought three different types of factory ammo, and rested on a bag, the accuracy is no different. I was at the range with it last weekend and removed the fore end and shot a test group -instantly tightened up toa little under 1.5”.

I can see impression in the last 2” of the fore arm from the barrel; I’m wondering if I need to bed it or relieve the channel? I don’t see much info online about bedding the fore end on 99’s, or even BLR’s, 742’s and BAR’s; is it better to bed the entire length, or leave the last couple inches free from barrel contact? I don’t think a pillar will help, but I’m all ears.
Click to expand...

NRA gunsmith books have a few articles about accurizing 99's. Lots of good info in there. - dan
 
hifiwasabi said:
I have a 1976 vintage Savage 99 that was rebarreled with a medium contour hunter barrel in 338 Federal. I’ve been handloading for it with Starline brass, H335 and Speer 200 grain Hot-cors, but accuracy has been pretty disappointing at 3” groups being average. I bought three different types of factory ammo, and rested on a bag, the accuracy is no different. I was at the range with it last weekend and removed the fore end and shot a test group -instantly tightened up toa little under 1.5”.

I can see impression in the last 2” of the fore arm from the barrel; I’m wondering if I need to bed it or relieve the channel? I don’t see much info online about bedding the fore end on 99’s, or even BLR’s, 742’s and BAR’s; is it better to bed the entire length, or leave the last couple inches free from barrel contact? I don’t think a pillar will help, but I’m all ears.
Click to expand...

I bedded my M99 F 300 Savage with full solid contact from the receiver forward with accuglass and it went from 3 inch groups to near MOA all the time after it was done ! just my experience! RJ
 
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