Anyone use a savage action in 300 win mag for longrange shooting? Im looking at putting together a semi custom long range rifle, and dont have a big budget to work with, so after some research have decided on a savage action. Im wondering if theres anything that i should be watching out for when buying one other then to make sure that it has an accutrigger? Is there a specific model that i should be looking for?
Savage Actions for long range.
- Thread starter HMG
- Start date
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
All Savage LA's are basically the same differing in trigger and mag style.
They work superbly as a LR boomer donor action.
I have a series of articles on my website that you might find helpful.
Good luck with your build.
Jerry
They work superbly as a LR boomer donor action.
I have a series of articles on my website that you might find helpful.
Good luck with your build.
Jerry
Not knowing how much you know...what do you consider long range and are you only paper punching or will you hunt? Since you said limited budget, you need to take ammo cost and barrel replacement into account. A .308 will be much cheaper than a .300WM and barrel life will be much better. A .223 is half the cost of a .308 to reload and heavier grains are good for "long range." I can't remember off hand but I think a .308 is good for 3000+ rounds before you need to consider barrel change (unless you're a benchrester). A .300WM, less than a thousand. Research on the net, but I think those figures are somewhat accurate for heavy barrel shooting. Also, if you're getting into shooting, a .308 and especially .223 has far less recoil and due to being cheaper to load for, will enable you to shoot more. Just a thought. I loved my previous Savage 10FP and would recommend it in a heartbeat, now I just got a Remington 700 SPS Tactical (entry level) to see the difference. I found the Savage Accu-trigger great, others hate it. I want to build my own too...Shilen 20" barrel, Jewell trigger, B&C Medalist stock etc. Hope your project goes well. All the best.
- Location
- Halifax, NS
Thanks for the replies! I want to be able to shoot reliably out to 1k or so and yes i will be hunting with it. The main reason i dont want a smaller caliber is that i still want to be able to shoot elk or moose out that far, not only target shooting. As for a small budget, that would be for the initial rig. I cant justify spending 5 grand or more on a really nice rifle (though id love to 
. So i gotta keep it somewhat simpler. The second reason for the 300wm cartridge is that i already shoot this caliber, and finding factory ammo in a pinch if it comes to that is easy. I have no experience with reloading as of yet, but plan on learning this as well.
. So i gotta keep it somewhat simpler. The second reason for the 300wm cartridge is that i already shoot this caliber, and finding factory ammo in a pinch if it comes to that is easy. I have no experience with reloading as of yet, but plan on learning this as well.
- Location
- Virden, MB
I built a 7mmRM on a Savage Action.
Prolly my favorite gun cept it is so expensive to shoot. Great out to 1k.
Prolly my favorite gun cept it is so expensive to shoot. Great out to 1k.
- Location
- Virden, MB
I like having the brake just so I can spot my shots. It is much more pleasant to shoot. A;though I don't like shooting around others and you need to double the hearing protection.
I put together a semi-custom savage .308 last summer. Bedded the barreled action into a McMillan A5, badger 20moa base and rings, and a vBull DBM floorplate. Optics are a SWFA 10x42, I plan to eventually upgrade to a leupold ER/T or something like that. As for accuracy, let's just say that the rifle shoots WAY better than I can. Every group is under a minute, and it's under half if i have my #### together for that group and if it likes the load. Worked up a load for 175gr SMK's/varget today, it looks very promising near the high end between 44.4 and 45 grains. I'll just find the middle of that node and then i'm set.
You'll have no problem building something out of a savage. I have no regrets. I second the comments about going with .308. I did so because it is economical to reload (working out to $1/rd for me, half the price of GMM) and it is not too heavy on the shoulder. I say "not too heavy" because I still find that I get recoil-sensitive during a long session. The McMillan stock greatly helps, it is a completely different rifle now compared to the original stock. If I wanted to rech out further, I would build a similar .338LM to complement this rifle, but not replace it.
You'll have no problem building something out of a savage. I have no regrets. I second the comments about going with .308. I did so because it is economical to reload (working out to $1/rd for me, half the price of GMM) and it is not too heavy on the shoulder. I say "not too heavy" because I still find that I get recoil-sensitive during a long session. The McMillan stock greatly helps, it is a completely different rifle now compared to the original stock. If I wanted to rech out further, I would build a similar .338LM to complement this rifle, but not replace it.
Why a 300 with a brake?
Unless you are reloading with match bullets, (and even if you are...)the 30 cal bullet livery suffers from really lousy ballistic coefficients. That translates into really poor long range precision, yet it is piad for with punishing recoil and crappy barrel life. If you are on a budget, think about what it will cost to feed a big ugly bastard like a 300 Win Mag.
You can equal or better the ballistics of most 30 cal bullets using 6mm or 6.5mm bullets and using a third of the powder. You will also learn to be a better, more accurate shooter.
Unless you are reloading with match bullets, (and even if you are...)the 30 cal bullet livery suffers from really lousy ballistic coefficients. That translates into really poor long range precision, yet it is piad for with punishing recoil and crappy barrel life. If you are on a budget, think about what it will cost to feed a big ugly bastard like a 300 Win Mag.
You can equal or better the ballistics of most 30 cal bullets using 6mm or 6.5mm bullets and using a third of the powder. You will also learn to be a better, more accurate shooter.
- Location
- Niagara Region, Ontario. For now
First let me say I am no expert, but Mysticplayer and Obtuned are, and I will just let you know what I have found in researching the same as you.
The savage action is great.
Finding a nice custom stock is expensive, and not easy.
Your best options for caliber out to those distances are not going to be off the shelf at Canadian Tire.
Continuing from the last point reloading is a must to get consistent results even at 600m let alone 1000.
Getting a custom barrel can take some time.
So my suggestion, and the direction I chose, is to get yourself something off the shelf such as a Savage 10fp in 308 or .223(for now as it will shoot better than you if you are a newb). Learn the basics, breathing, trigger control, bullet drop, wind doping, reloading, etc.
In the meantime you can start sourcing your parts such as a barrel and stock, and still be shooting while making sure you get the parts you want. It also allows you to save more money over time, and research so you get the right parts the first time.
Prolly not what you wanted to hear but think about it.
The savage action is great.
Finding a nice custom stock is expensive, and not easy.
Your best options for caliber out to those distances are not going to be off the shelf at Canadian Tire.
Continuing from the last point reloading is a must to get consistent results even at 600m let alone 1000.
Getting a custom barrel can take some time.
So my suggestion, and the direction I chose, is to get yourself something off the shelf such as a Savage 10fp in 308 or .223(for now as it will shoot better than you if you are a newb). Learn the basics, breathing, trigger control, bullet drop, wind doping, reloading, etc.
In the meantime you can start sourcing your parts such as a barrel and stock, and still be shooting while making sure you get the parts you want. It also allows you to save more money over time, and research so you get the right parts the first time.
Prolly not what you wanted to hear but think about it.
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VAIS Muzzle Brake is Awesome, Not Any Louder!
I had a Vais muzzlebrake installed for my previous Ruger Laminate Compact .308. Vais claims not only recoil reduction but not much increase in sound. I found that to be the truth.
http://www.muzzlebrakes.com/
I had Keenan Strozek, Accurately Shooting Firearms, have the brake installed for me.
http://www.accuratelyshooting.com/
Q. What makes the Vais brake quieter than other brakes?
A. Our Vais brake has eight small holes drilled from the muzzle of the brake. These holes are drilled through all of the cross ports and terminate in a small expansion chamber just ahead of the barrel muzzle. This configuration very effectively vents most of the noise and concussion away from the shooter.
Q. How does the noise level of your muzzle brake in decibels compare to a rifle without a brake installed?
A. Independent testing has been done:
http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3221043/m/803107706
On a side note, a guy brought his new Savage 110BA in .338 Lapua to the range one day. I couldn't believe the sound coming out of it, not bad at all for such a powerful rifle. It seemed deeper but not much louder than my .308. Of course it could have been in relation to where I was located?
I had a Vais muzzlebrake installed for my previous Ruger Laminate Compact .308. Vais claims not only recoil reduction but not much increase in sound. I found that to be the truth.
http://www.muzzlebrakes.com/
I had Keenan Strozek, Accurately Shooting Firearms, have the brake installed for me.
http://www.accuratelyshooting.com/
Q. What makes the Vais brake quieter than other brakes?
A. Our Vais brake has eight small holes drilled from the muzzle of the brake. These holes are drilled through all of the cross ports and terminate in a small expansion chamber just ahead of the barrel muzzle. This configuration very effectively vents most of the noise and concussion away from the shooter.
Q. How does the noise level of your muzzle brake in decibels compare to a rifle without a brake installed?
A. Independent testing has been done:
http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3221043/m/803107706
On a side note, a guy brought his new Savage 110BA in .338 Lapua to the range one day. I couldn't believe the sound coming out of it, not bad at all for such a powerful rifle. It seemed deeper but not much louder than my .308. Of course it could have been in relation to where I was located?
TargetNorth
Regular
- Location
- Southern Alberta
1000 meters is a LONG way to be hunting. It's hard to even see an animal that far unless they're on a really contrasting background, yet alone get a bullet to it. If you'd be happy with hunting out to 500 m, it would be a lot easier to build your set up cheaper. 500 m is still a pretty long way out.
You must have had a really bad experience with the .300. Just out of curiousity what bullet are you shooting out of the 6mm or 6.5 that puts 1200ft lbs and 1700 fps impact velocity on game at a 1000y like the 208 amax or 210 berger can?
