Savage bolt parts, in Canada??

cdog

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Hello all, I'm looking for Canadian source for savage bolt parts, my gunsmith says he can only aquire them from the states which takes almost forever. If any of you know a source you would be doing both of us a huge favor. Thanks in advance,



Cdog.
 
Order them from Brownells yourself. $100 limit and nothing that says FFL Required. What parts do you need?

Cheers
 
I'm looking for a bolt head for my 223 savage (Accutrigger style). I wish to turn it into a 22-250ai. I have a bolt head from an older long action 22-250 but its not quite the same, so i'm guessing i need one from a newer style rifle?
I also need a front baffle for the older 22-250. Any help would be greatly appreciated, by the way rob, I live in N.B. Thanks again,

Cdog.
 
There are lots of different boltheads, long, short, new, old, left, right, mag, 308, 223... your best bet is to phone SharpShooterSupply.com EDITED TO REMOVE PHONE # They are Savage specialists and have what you need. Last night I put their comp trigger on one of mine, much better than the original. Got a bolthead too, but not the one you want.

Curious on the baffle, is it the one with the extension? Either way, SSS can fix you up. All the baffles I have are exactly the same. Also, is the 22-250 head lug height .4390 for a short action or .4980 for a long action long? [7/16 or 1/2"]

Cheers

PS or is it the one with the extension?
 
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Thanks for your quick reply Rob. Yes both baffles have extensions(longer one side). Yes the short action is 7/16 and the long is 1/2. I take it you have ordered from sss before, and you have never had any problems? This would be great news. Wasnt your new trigger over $100.00 though? I'm hoping for a fast twist 22-250ai, I have a buddy that had his regular 250 ackleyed and he has the 14 twist and he likes it very much. Any other opinions or sudgestions would be more than welcome,

Cdog.
 
cdog said:
Thanks for your quick reply Rob. Yes both baffles have extensions(longer one side). Yes the short action is 7/16 and the long is 1/2. I take it you have ordered from sss before, Yes and you have never had any problems? 2 wrong parts, I would suggest with any order with any dealer you have the seller carefully repeat what your order is just before hanging up. This would be great news. Wasnt your new trigger over $100.00 though? $80 I'm hoping for a fast twist 22-250ai, I have a buddy that had his regular 250 ackleyed and he has the 14 twist and he likes it very much. Any other opinions or sudgestions would be more than welcome, SSS recoil lug, and if you don't have one, their barrel nut wrench.

Cdog.
cheers....
 
Thanks again Rob for your help. When I asked if you have had any problems I meant getting things across the border, as I have asked other places and they will not ship to Canada regardless of price. I do own a barrel wrench, but no headspace gages. Only one other question for now... is a sss trigger a real step up from my accutrigger?? I really like the lite trigger pull, thanks again,

Cdog.
 
I don't use headspace guages, I headspace with fired cases that are full length resized. For reloaders, it is a better method than using a guage. If you do not reload, you need a guage.

The SSS trigger I have has a 450g pull and safe. I don't own an Accutrigger so I can't compare but I wouldn't get a SSS to replace an accutrigger, I would go with a rifle Basix Sav2. The only issues I hear about accutriggers is that some shooters are placing their finger tip on the front corner of the trigger and pulling or they have the spring set so light that it does not function at all. What happens is the accu-release is still blocking the sear and the rifle does not fire. That is exactly what the accu-release was designed to do.

The Rifle Basix Sav2 is an even lighter trigger but $150 US ish.
 
Hello again Rob, I do reload so I could use a resized case from my buddies ai? I emailed SSS and she said she could ship anything but actions or barrels, this is good news. I have my accutrigger at the lowest factory setting, supposedly 1 1/2 lbs. I've also read about SSS timing and truing actions to help with a firm bolt lift, could any local gunsmith do the same or are there special tricks? Thanks again, you have saved me from lots of extra homework if you had not replied to my post, your help is greatly appreciated.


cdog.
 
Yes, you can use his cases, grab few while your at it. Since you will be reloading, the dies you use will dictate the size of your brass. Headspacing with a full length resized fired case ensures your rifle and brass match. There are wide tolerances in dies and some in shellholders. I have 2 sets of 308 dies that are .010" different. I headspace and reload using the same die set.

One thing about the AI, when you use non AI ammo to fireform brass, you will notice the harder to close bolt. The non AI neck to shoulder junction is farther forward, by about .004" or at least it should be. When you headspace with your resized brass, it may be quite stiff to close the bolt on the non AI ammo, remember to lube the lugs.

As far as perfectly timing an action goes, personally, it isn't important to me. It is done at the factory but within tolerances of course. I don't think there is any real need to true a Savage. If you want BR groups you need a BR action. Bed a good stock to it, replace the recoil lug and screw on a good barrel with a good crown. That's all I recommend besides good glass.

Cheers
 
Hello again Rob. Is there any reason after I get all my brass formed that I cant neck size? Or is there no real advantage because the sharp ai case does not work that much? If I'm going to have to fireform and make all my brass I'd like it to last as long as possible, I've always neck sized by brass on my 223, but I must admit I've run my 223 at top pressures and the brass has only lasted 3 or 4 firings anyway. My buddy claims up to 20 loadings on his ai. Part of the reason of all this is I have a burris black diamond with the bmd reticle and I'd like to take advantage of the reticle as it was designed for a regular 22-250 trajectory. What is your opinion of these types of reticles, or do you use your knobs as I've been reluctant to learn, 1/8th clicks are great for target work but a crow can be in the next county by the time i get adjusted. As usual, many thanks,
Cdog.
 
Neck size if you like, no problem, if your lucky you can neck size until you need to anneal. I read alot about BR shooters full length resizing every time and not turning necks, I like those guys :D I stick to full length and wouldn't turn a neck to save mine. Have thrown alot of brass out because I was too lazy to anneal as well, but the brass was cheap.

Holdover would be preferred over adjusting the scope IMO, a reticle often needs to settle after adjusting and if a shot counted you won't know for sure if the reticle is truely in place. I have a 3200 and a 4200 mil dot and like them, and I think another 4200 coming on a buddy swap thing. BTW, if you practice rangefinding with the mil dots, you will be amazed how good it works, IF you are certain of the size of the object you are looking at. I would suggest since you already have the scope, use it and learn all its tricks, it will be fun and very satisfying when it works out for you. The lower part of the BMD reticle is just holdover hash marks, you still need to know the distance, but I would think its useful although I never had the pleasure of using one.
http://www.burrisoptics.com/pdf/BALLMIL.pdf

PS, you never play with your knobs... yeah right :D
 
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