Savage MKII Safety Switch Issues

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efnot

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Hi Everyone.

I've got a bit of a safety issue with my Savage MkII and was wondering if anyone has any thoughts on how to fix it. I went to the range this morning and was sighting in for a new box of ammo. My first shot I fired with the safety on, then when I toggled the safety switch the pin dropped and automatically went off. Thankfully I was still on target (was about 1" off centre @ 50yrds actually), but this is a pretty big safety concern for me and I'd like to fix it as soon as possible.

TL;DR
Savage MkII automatically fires when switching the safety off (after firing with the safety on).

If anyone has come across this issue and has a DIY fix for it I'd really appreciate the input.

Thanks,
 
It is an accutrigger model, but I'm uncertain if any adjustments have been done by the previous owner (I got it second hand and no longer have the previous owner's contact info).

I spent an hour or two searching on google and the only reference that I could find that was similar was a 2010 post on another forum suggesting a heavier trigger pull along with some cleaning/polishing may solve the issue (https://thefiringline.com/forums/archive/index.php?t-427333.html). I actually like where the trigger is at right now and would rather not change it if I don't have to.
 
This does not sound good for a number of reasons. No firearm should fire with the safety on! Something is worn or modified and this trigger is no longer serviceable! As an Accutrigger model, the accublade should block the sear in the event of accidental trigger pull or sear release, just moving the safety and having the gun fire indicates a secondary issue with the function of the accublade! Can you take the action out of the stock and take some pics of the trigger group? Was the accublade removed by the PO? I'm sure you like how light the trigger currently is, but Bubba PO did not respect the limits of this trigger and made it unsafe. We need to see some pics for further assessment.
 
Take it to a smith to have it looked at, then check it out you're self and test to see if it happens...(at the range)

#1 rule, don't point it at anything you don't want to kill...
 
Skip the smith. Call Savage directly. They are very good to deal with and most likely they will repair or replace at no cost to you. Trust me, it's worth the phone call.
 
efnot said:
It is an accutrigger model, but I'm uncertain if any adjustments have been done by the previous owner (I got it second hand and no longer have the previous owner's contact info).
I spent an hour or two searching on google and the only reference that I could find that was similar was a 2010 post on another forum suggesting a heavier trigger pull along with some cleaning/polishing may solve the issue (https://thefiringline.com/forums/archive/index.php?t-427333.html). I actually like where the trigger is at right now and would rather not change it if I don't have to.
Click to expand...

I have a feeling the PO may have modified this trigger. Some believe they just have to defeat the AccuTrigger safety feature, for reasons I do not understand. Here is a link I posted on how to tune an Accutrigger. There are at least some photos showing what it should look like. I left all safety features intact when I tuned mine up and it now pulls at about 12 oz or so. The main trigger spring and AccuTrigger spring have been lightened though.

Savage Rimfire AccuTrigger Tuning
 
RabidM4U5 said:
This does not sound good for a number of reasons. No firearm should fire with the safety on! Something is worn or modified and this trigger is no longer serviceable! As an Accutrigger model, the accublade should block the sear in the event of accidental trigger pull or sear release, just moving the safety and having the gun fire indicates a secondary issue with the function of the accublade! Can you take the action out of the stock and take some pics of the trigger group? Was the accublade removed by the PO? I'm sure you like how light the trigger currently is, but Bubba PO did not respect the limits of this trigger and made it unsafe. We need to see some pics for further assessment.
Click to expand...

Thanks RabidM4U5.

I'll post some pictures on Sunday when I get some time to do a good cleaning. In the meantime, good advice everyone! I'll give Savage a call tomorrow morning to find out what kind of service they can provide. Although I'd rather not send it out for service and have to wait a few weeks to get it back.

In the meantime I'm going to have to bench this until I can get this fixed!
 
efnot said:
Thanks RabidM4U5.

I'll post some pictures on Sunday when I get some time to do a good cleaning. In the meantime, good advice everyone! I'll give Savage a call tomorrow morning to find out what kind of service they can provide. Although I'd rather not send it out for service and have to wait a few weeks to get it back.

In the meantime I'm going to have to bench this until I can get this fixed!
Click to expand...

As I understand it, Savage is difficult when it comes to triggers. They apparently will not sell parts, only the complete trigger.

I did a quick check on the Rimfire Central site for your issue. What I saw was that the issue was reported, but not with a Savage trigger, but with one that had a Rifle Basix sear put in it. So that is the other possibility -- the PO has replaced the trigger or part of it.
 
Since I was bored I took a look at my Savage, nice thing is all the trigger components of concern are easily visible with the action out of the stock. I'll walk you through what a properly functioning trigger group should look like. Cocked with safety ON, trigger is positively blocked from any rearward movement.



Safety off



If you pull the trigger, but not the Accublade, or the sear releases for any reason when closing the bolt, moving the safety or bumping the firearm, the accublade blocks the sear and the weapon cannot fire.



The accublade and sear have little hooks that link into each other and the mechanism is locked and cannot fire until you lift the bolt to re-#### the action.



The weapon is only clear to fire when the accublade is pulled.



You can check this in 10 minutes, see if your trigger group has all the pointed out parts. If you're lucky things are mostly intact and we just might have to tweak some springs. It'll be obvious if things have been cut, ground or altered in which case, trigger is FUBAR and must replace.
 
Unless you know exactly what you're doing, I wouldn't advice fooling around with trigger/safety.
Since the OP asked, it is safe to assume he doesn't know.

Have a competent smith (operative word is competent) or better, send it back to the factory.

A wrong call here can lead to tragic consequences and only yourself to blame.
 
easyrider604 said:
Unless you know exactly what you're doing, I wouldn't advice fooling around with trigger/safety.
Since the OP asked, it is safe to assume he doesn't know.

Have a competent smith (operative word is competent) or better, send it back to the factory.

A wrong call here can lead to tragic consequences and only yourself to blame.
Click to expand...

Oh come on, this stuff ain't rocket science! Some basic mechanical sense and ability to work on things is all you need, nobody knew anything until they tried it for the first time. Sure.... some people shouldn't ever touch tools but I have the feeling if the OP was that sort he never would have posted about it and just sent it off to a repair center already. A person can be guided to do the work and as long as they respect the requirements of a safe, reliable trigger mechanism there's no issue doing it. Also, be able to admit when something is beyond one's repair capabilities or be able to recognize (with guidance if necessary) that something has been altered in such a way that repair is not possible. The main thing is not put the rifle back into regular service until this is solved. Once photobucket is back online my pictorial clearly shows how the trigger *should* work and it should be obvious to the OP what is different about his trigger causing it not to function correctly. A couple pics from the OP of his trigger group and it'll be obvious to us the state of this trigger.

It could be as simple as "Oh just turn this spring clockwise a few turns to increase the pressure"

or

"Sorry buddy, that trigger got bubba-ed. You need a new one"

Right now without more feedback from the OP nobody can really say one way or the other on this.
 
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