Savage mounts prefference

Ice-Pick

Ice-Pick

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Barrie, Ontario
We,ve just bought jr (older jr.) a Savage model 12 Benchrest in 6BR, the dual port rifle.
We,re looking at mounting a big N/F on it and i'm wondering what you Savage owners have/suggest for top notch mounts for this rifle (dual port).

M.
 
Near Manufacturing has very good 20moa mount. They have top shelf products from everywhere I read. Their savage mount for that is stainless as well so it will match the BR receiver.

I have their alphamount rings and they are very good.

Combined with their base and alphamount, a 50mm will be only a couple mm's off the barrel
 
I know them

I have a buddy with a near rail.
The problem is , and i should have been more specific.
I don't want 20 moa. I want 15 - 17 moa like my Barnard.

I had 20 min on my last rifle in 6BR a rem XR 100 and the scope bottomed out at 200 yds. (too much elevation) and had extra past 1000.

The new BR i'm using has 17 min and I have the zero set at 100 now not 200.

I like this better.

I'm gonna call Ken Farrell and see if his 15 min. will fit jr's new rifle.

M.
 
Why not ask?

Ice-Pick said:
I have a buddy with a near rail.
The problem is , and i should have been more specific.
I don't want 20 moa. I want 15 - 17 moa like my Barnard...
Click to expand...

Why not ask Near?

"Orders are tailored to match your rifle and optics. Call or e-mail us today and tell us what you need. We guarantee that once you have our base in your hands, you will know you have made the right choice.
We guarantee total customer satisfaction in the fit, finish and performance of all of our products." - Near Manufacturing

Near Manufacturing
PO Box 1677
Camrose, AB
T4V 1X6 Canada
Click to expand...
 
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Ice-Pick, you can't really go by that. Depending on just how the barrel is aligned to the bore, the scope may bottom out perfectly without any MOA slope or it may need 30MOA. If you mount cheap weaver two piece bases and test fire the rifle this will get you an idea of where the scope will bottom out with other mounts, ball park. Then pick the MOA base you should need. I like to bed scope bases with no stress, all factory actions are warped to some degree and when you tighten the base screws down it bends the mount no matter how expensive or well made. My Savage 6mm Dasher with a 20MOA base cannot zero closer than 300, but the action face was never trued like yours came from factory.
 
Farrell MOA base and fine tune with Burris Sig ZEE rings. This is what I use on all my LR rifles.

As PEIRob suggested, you can't just look at a scope and base and say, I need so many MOA. You need to mount and shoot to really know where the scope POA really is.

I have even mounted a couple of the same scopes and got different set ups. Change the ring height or which slot in the base and you MOA needs will change.

Jerry
 
Rob and Jerry,
Maybe i'm missing something here I don't get it. Can you explain why ?


My Last 6BR was a Rem XR100 it had a 42X N/F and a 20 min. mount.
This 6BR (mine) is a Barnard and 42X N/F and a 17 min mount.

The Rem would not zero down at 100 yards the scopes adjustment stopped at 200 yards (too much elevation on rail)

The Barnard has less elevation on the mount (17 moa) and the scope WILL zero at 100 now.


Now this is the part I dont understand why do you say I can't just put on a 15 moa mount(on jr's) and a 42X N/F and expect to be able to zero at 100 ?

I've already scoped to 6BR's before and learned from my first mistake with the 20 moa.

The end goal with the 15 min mount is to be able to zero at 100 for load testing and still have enough adjustment in the scope to go up to 1000 yards.
I'll need about 29 -31 min. of elevation.

moa, is moa , right?
it's like when dad asked me as a kid, what weights more a lb of LEAD or a lb of FEATHERS ?

Mike.
 
I can assure you two things, the Barnard action is perfectly straight, within .001" and the Rem action is bent at least .008". Basically you have the action machining, barrel machining, recoil lug and harmonics that make a group land where is does. This cannot be predicted accurately with factory parts. That factory action has the threads, lugs and face perfectly in line with each other but the whole tube is bent from heat treating. Not much but some and the barrel nut and barrel is not perfect either. Which way is it really pointing no one can say. The base screw holes are straight but also made before heat treating. Again bed the base, here is the link to a thread on bedding an accustock if you want my two cents on base bedding a stock or base. http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=433683
 
I see this every day. A lot of people don't think an action can be crooked. The reality is very few are straight. The sooner a person learns this, the sooner they can get a scope on their rifle and get it as close to being properly centered as possible, the sooner they start getting some success sighting in and shooting better groups. I would estimate that over 25% of the scopes I have come in are maxed out on the adjustments. The more expensive the scope the tighter the tolerances inside = the more noticeable it is. I have a Stevens that from the factory is out by .040. .001 on the base equals approximately 1 MOA at 100 yards.Three shims under the rear base and the scope is in line with the action for elevation. Windage can be out that much as well, and is just as important to the equation. To fix that you need windage adjustable bases or rings with offset inserts, or have a good gunsmith straighten out the screw holes in the action.
New Leupold scopes are centered when they come to you from the factory. If you have to twist the knobs a whole bunch to get on paper you have a problem with the gun and should not be surprised or upset. It is a fact of life so just fix it. If you have a scope and are not sure it is set to zero turn the adjustments all the way in, then count the turns all the way out, then turn them in half the distance.
Once you have done this and are ready to sight in remember a bore sighter is not God. It only gets you close to being on paper at 25 yards. Once you are on at 25 yds move to 100. If you have a good rest and rear bag it should take a total of 2 shots at 100 to be dead on. If you have a coat role up on the hood of your truck, well all I can say is good luck. Fire the first shot and then looking through the scope with the cross hair on the same point of aim adjust the cross hair to the bullet hole.
When making adjustments on a scope always finish your adjustment by going the same direction on the adjustment. What I suggest is that if you are turning an adjustment counter clockwise go beyond were you want to be and come back clockwise to the place you want to be. Always finish the adjustment turning the screw INTO the system.This includes side focus knobs, always focus from infinity.
 
Thanks guys, so my mistake here was thinking the manufacturers could make a gun straight and consistant.... laff. I should have known better after seeing what rem. has been building lately.

Stevesummit, thanks but with your mark 4 you,ll have alot more elevation adjustment than I will because of the lower mag. on your scope and i'll see things you can't because of the 42X. If I was to go to a lower mag. scope I wouldn't have needed to ask the base mount question i'd already have lots of adjustment to compensate for it.

Rob you make a good point on the better action obviously being more accurate. The Rem xr 100 I was using was cleaned up by the guy that built and installed the barrel for me though.

Tony, um,,,, thanks i think,,,, not really what i was asking but ok.
I don't want the scope centered. I'll be shooting from 100 to 1000 yards with this. With the adjustments on the scope dead in the center both ways I expect to be looking at the bullseye at 500ish yards. With the limited elevation of the 42X scope i'm trying to get the proper moa rail/mount that will let me shoot 100 yards near the bottom of the scopes adjustment and 1000 near the top. The scope only has about 45 moa of elevation, not like the 100 moa of the model 2 down.

Thanks guys I appreciate the advice

M.
 
IP, that is why I suggest you mount the scope on the rifle, put some holes on paper, then figure out what you need.

Try this test if you are really curious - finish the test above, take everything apart includiung pulling the base off the action. Now reinstall and see what you get.

On your typical factory action, you will not get the same zero.

If everything we put on an action is straight, why do we get ring marks on the scopes?

Jerry
 
I understand what your saying Jerry, its just I was trying to avoid buying mounting gear twice. Once to see what I need , Once to get it right. I have a 20 moa one piece N/F ring set here I can try but I need a plain flat base to mount it to so I can try it out.

Scope marks I figured are because of the limits of poor quality control, I don't get them I lap all my rings.

Thanks

M.
 
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