Savage not ejecting empties

redneckchris

redneckchris

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komoka ontario
Hi, can someone help me out... I have a savage model 10 223 that is letting go of the empty brass before they come back far enough to eject. It is a pain and very unpractical to have to remove the dropped brass by hand after each shot. I checked the extractor and ejector and both seem to be freely moving...
Do I need to change out the extractor? Is this a common problem? Where can I get replacement parts?
Thanks for any input you might be able to give me,
Red
 
You may need a new ejector spring or the ejector is dragging in the hole, just because it moves is not enough. The spring needs to be quite strong to work properly.
 
You need. New detent ball. The lil ball under the extractor. It needs to be a 3.5mm ball. I couldn't find one but number four steel shot micrometers at 3.4 mm. I was at the range today, first time since i changed it, and it worked flawlessly. Hope this helps.
Jesse
 
Jesse_L_B said:
You need. New detent ball. The lil ball under the extractor. It needs to be a 3.5mm ball. I couldn't find one but number four steel shot micrometers at 3.4 mm. I was at the range today, first time since i changed it, and it worked flawlessly. Hope this helps.
Jesse
Click to expand...

This ^^^^^^^^^

I had the same problem, changed the detent ball and it's worked great ever since.
 
Bicycle shops have cans of small balls.
Not sure if they would have your appropiate size, but might be worth
letting yer pinkies do the walking.
 
Ok so I searched through my steel shotgun shells looking for a #4.... No luck, I did have a bunch of #3's... Thought ill check it out. The #3 steel shot measured 3.5mm right on!
I changed out the existing detent ball and it now works perfect!!
Thanks for all your help!
Red
 
it might be the extractor. If the extractor has some wear on it , it will let go of the shell before it clears the ejecton port.
 
It sounds like your ejector is just fine. It sounds like a worn extractor or weak extractor spring. It is quite possibly not holding the case head against the bolt face and is letting go of the loosely held case premeturely.
 
good luck getting parts...

if anybody has a lead on the upgraded ejector pin, and spring, please post it up...been trying for a while now
 
BRvalley said:
good luck getting parts...

if anybody has a lead on the upgraded ejector pin, and spring, please post it up...been trying for a while now
Click to expand...

If you know anyone with a lathe the ejector pin is a very simple manufacture if parts supply fails.
I've made extractors too but are a bit more work..a wizz if you are handy with a dremel and needle files though. Just need a small piece of drill rod or 4140 for the ejector and a piece of tool steel or 4140 for the ejector
 
Why not take it to someone that knows what to look for instead of changing parts? It's also possible that the bolt head was made incorrectly and just will not hold the brass. A GS should be able to diagnose this in about two minutes.
 
Ian brings up a good point I hadn't thought of. You should remove the bolt and see how much play is in the case to bolt fit.
I've previously experianced undersized case rims. I had a Win M70 in 6.5x55 that dropped cases and ripped of rims upon extracting and I thought for sure there was a biil for gun parts in my future until I discoved upon close inspection that the cases were to blame. The Americans like makeing case heads undersize these days. My 6.5x55 rims were only .473" when .480" is spec...I've recently encountered FC 7mm mauser case rims sitting at .460" instead of .473"
Point is don't assume anything. Work the action slow and watch what happens. Measure and check clearances too.
 
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