Savage NRA Match Rifle

Mumbles Marble Mouth

Mumbles Marble Mouth

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I got this NRA match rifle. I finished cleaning it up and noticed the stock is cracked. Anyone have suggestions how to fix it? Its cracked coming from the trigger guard screw and wraps around to the other side as well. I have a couple ideas what id do to fix it but Id like to listen to suggestions from others. The magazine is missing too so I'll have to try and track one down. The rifle mechanically is in great shape so Id like to get this rifle into tip top shape.

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Thanks for your reply Mike. How many different models where there of this rifle?

Well since no one is interested In this thread, my plan was if the crack isn't all the way though the stock to the other side. drill the stock, countersink in a couple of brass or stainless screws with an epoxy, and then use a snip from a wood dowel to fill the hole. True oil and then done. It the crack is all the way though I may need to think of a new plan. Its a cool looking gun so id like to preserve it and fix the crack in the nicest way possible.
 
If the crack isn't complete, a screw may do the job. Alternatively, you might use a dowel instead of a screw, although that would require drilling a wider hole. If you have a drill press you could make a jig to keep the stock securely in place. With a plug cutter you can make a plug to cover the hole out of the same or similar wood as the stock, which appears to be walnut.
 
I would take the trigger guard off and see if the crack extends into it. If it does I would use a drywall screw or a flooring screw(they have a sharper point) and screw it into the crack slowly to open it up a bit. At this point you can squeeze some wood glue in the crack and push it in until it won't take anymore(I have used crazy glue if the crack is shallow but it can make a mess of the stock finish.. Once glue is in remove the screw and clamp it over night. It will be less obvious when finished.
Scott....
 
Looks nicer than mine. I can't quite make out the rear sight, they usually came with a rear peep sight. The mags are hard to find and fairly expensive when u do find them. I found a mag on eBay, after looking for a few years at gun shows. They are pretty good shooters.
Trevor
 
I'd leave screws right out of the equation for now. I'd take the action out of the stock, remove the trigger guard. Inspect the crack from all angles and reassess. Based on the photos alone, and with good wood glue and a few damp rags at the ready, I'd see if I can very carefully open the crack just a hair more. (without forcing it) With a little glue on my finger tip, I'd force as much into the crack, the full length as possible. When you're satisfied you can get no more in, wipe any excess off with the damp rag. Then use at least one more damp rag to make sure it's all off the wood. Remember, you don't want to smear it around...so it's not a matter of allot of wiping...just smart wiping. lol

I consider a "screw" to be a drastic, ugly repair any way you slice it..and the rifle might need that one day. Until that day, I'd try anything else less invasive. And I'll stress, don't over-force it. You'd be better off diluting the wood glue slightly to get it deep into that crack.
 
The screw I am suggesting is just to open the crack a hair. Plus it is used under the trigger guard where it isn't visible. This is why I generally use a drywall screw because the shank is more narrow and is less likely to split it anymore than it is. Just do 1/4 turn at a time and listen for any noise that sounds like cracking. Once the glue is in the crack it is removed (no visible screw). Alot easier to do than try to hold the crack open and apply the glue.
 
Archer Sam said:
The screw I am suggesting is just to open the crack a hair. Plus it is used under the trigger guard where it isn't visible. This is why I generally use a drywall screw because the shank is more narrow and is less likely to split it anymore than it is. Just do 1/4 turn at a time and listen for any noise that sounds like cracking. Once the glue is in the crack it is removed (no visible screw). Alot easier to do than try to hold the crack open and apply the glue.
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:agree:
 
I don't think they are all that common as I have not seen one come up on EE. I had to buy a savage 23a (it was cheap and turned out to be not bad) just for the mag (they use the same magazine). It is my understanding that they were originally designed to be trainers but we're not chosen buy the American military. One of the few guns were the barrel and receiver are made from the same piece of steel. One thing yours uses the early style mag as they changed them in the last model.
 
what i have done in past is go to your vet and get a 20 gauge cow needle and syringe and put your glue of choice in there and than stick the needle in the crack way less invasive and squeeze it in till it goops out than clamp as suggested it would be a shame to crack it more if you try to pry it too much
 
.22LRGUY said:
I'd leave screws right out of the equation for now. I'd take the action out of the stock, remove the trigger guard. Inspect the crack from all angles and reassess. Based on the photos alone, and with good wood glue and a few damp rags at the ready, I'd see if I can very carefully open the crack just a hair more. (without forcing it) With a little glue on my finger tip, I'd force as much into the crack, the full length as possible. When you're satisfied you can get no more in, wipe any excess off with the damp rag. Then use at least one more damp rag to make sure it's all off the wood. Remember, you don't want to smear it around...so it's not a matter of allot of wiping...just smart wiping. lol

I consider a "screw" to be a drastic, ugly repair any way you slice it..and the rifle might need that one day. Until that day, I'd try anything else less invasive. And I'll stress, don't over-force it. You'd be better off diluting the wood glue slightly to get it deep into that crack.
Click to expand...

Good advice here.
If I am gluing a stock crack like this, I wrap the area with a long piece of rubber tubing while the glue cures. This applies a lot of pressure to close the crack, but will not mark the stock. If you don't have rubber tubing, spiral cut an inner tube to make a really long rubber band.
I really do not like the look of screws, plugged screw holes, etc. externally on the stock.
 
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