Have owned several of these rifles and all had the same problem......They are flimsy and some more than others. I found with the last two rifles that the heat of the sun was all it took to warp the stocks one way or the other. I had to keep them in the shade between three shot groups trying different loads to keep the stocks from warping and putting pressure on the barrel. When i got home i took the stocks off and augered out about 1/4" on both sides all the way back to the barrel nut....problem solved. I have even seen stocks that had a channel routered out down the center under the barrel and a piece of 3/8" sqaure stock epoxied in. The best fix would be a better stock but according to my wife i am "THE KING OF CHEAP".......lol. Just saving cash for a better rifle. Besides its her gun not mine...LOL!!
Savage Stock Quick Fix
- Thread starter Brad925
- Start date
Some people just epoxy 2 carbon-fiber arrows into the forearm
- Location
- Virden, MB
Fiberglass and paint on a stevens stock. Way too much work btw.
How hard does just the fiberglass resin get?
I am thinking of filling the front of my sps-v stock with it (cheaper than epoxy) but I've never used it before.
Does it shrink much when it sets up? Or does it stay about the same volume like epoxy?
I am thinking of filling the front of my sps-v stock with it (cheaper than epoxy) but I've never used it before.
Does it shrink much when it sets up? Or does it stay about the same volume like epoxy?
- Location
- Virden, MB
It doesn't shrink at all, its light too. Its a pain to work with tho.
What he said.
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
How about this?
Forend is 3" so that it is a nice fit in my pedestal rest. This was set up as a light weight BR rifle for some 1000m fun. Worked very well.
A bit of lumber and thin plywood epoxied to the stock. Sanded, filled and painted. Dirt cheap fun.
Jerry
Forend is 3" so that it is a nice fit in my pedestal rest. This was set up as a light weight BR rifle for some 1000m fun. Worked very well.
A bit of lumber and thin plywood epoxied to the stock. Sanded, filled and painted. Dirt cheap fun.
Jerry
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
Epoxy sticks really well to these stocks. Clean the surface well with a degreaser BEFORE roughing up the surface. I use aerosol brake cleaner. Spray liberally and let air dry. Then grind some flats and epoxy the wood on. Don't need nails or screws.
Lumber is good old 2x4's. Any thing will work. The bottom is 1/8" cabinet plywood. You can also use plywood for the sides which will make it even stronger (not necessary but what the heck).
Sand to shape, seal and paint. Voila, let your imagination go.
Jerry
Lumber is good old 2x4's. Any thing will work. The bottom is 1/8" cabinet plywood. You can also use plywood for the sides which will make it even stronger (not necessary but what the heck).
Sand to shape, seal and paint. Voila, let your imagination go.
Jerry
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
Yep,Epoxy is the only readily available adhesive that will stick, stay rigid, weather and handling the rigours of useage.
Just make sure it is VERY well degreased. With the brake cleaner, the surface is a dull whitish hue. ALL the mold release and any oils MUST be removed.
If not, when you rough up the surface, these lubricants are driven into the composite and you will have all manner of fun with delamination.
Would suggest against polyester resin. Might just melt the stock.
Jerry
