Say it with me.. ill never inlet my stock by hand again...

I did the same thing to an HS precision stock I had. Its since been sold, but I was satisfied with the outcome. Freestyling with a dremel is pretty nerve racking. Nice work, there is far worse out there.
 
I did mine for a PTG detachable mag and it was pretty rough but I bedded it with Acura glas and they have black die and it turned out perfect. If you have a black stock it’s perfect
 
Just installed a PT&G unit in a walnut Remington 40X single shot stock. Used a Forstner bit in a drill press to rough out the opening, then went to work with chisels, rasps and files. Installed pillars, bedded barrelled action and trigger guard unit with JB Weld. No Dremel.
 
The dremel would have worked really well on fiberglass. On plastic, it just melted it.. so it was not very fun. But it works great. Looks like crap on the inside... but outside it looks ok.
 
Carbide burrs cut, abrasives grind and melt.
Carbides cut plastic great and metals.
Sanding drums or abrasive burrs grind metal, shape wood (etc.) but melt plastic...horribly.
 
wasrupzuk said:
Carbide burrs cut, abrasives grind and melt.
Carbides cut plastic great and metals.
Sanding drums or abrasive burrs grind metal, shape wood (etc.) but melt plastic...horribly.
Click to expand...

Ditto... I have also found that the remote/flex shaft attachments are much easier to hold and handle in tight places than the whole hand held dremel unit.
 
Ive done it twice. Both turned out OK but one much better than the other. Both ran flawlessly. Sold both for nearly full value with my custom artwork (krylon). I found jb plastic weld putty fills any gaps perfectly. A little grease on the DBM as a release agent while it dries and you can still remove the magwell no problem. Id do it again. I also removed a ton of material from the magpul part to limit the amount i needed to remove from the stock. Didnt have to dig into the bedding block at all.
 
I've inletted an HS for an Atlasworx DBM. It wasn't perfect but it wasn't bad. ATRS wasn't willing to do it since the Atlasworx uses a lot of square edges that the milling tools can't replicate and warned that HS Precision stocks are prone to chipping. That is why Badger, ATRS etc use radiused corners so that the stock can be easily machined. Ultimately it meant having to use a hand file to finish the corners. I did get one or two chips along the way. After some height tuning and notching the feed ramp in my 700P for use with AI mags without binder plates, and adjusting a pair of Accurate mags it fed flawlessly and worked like it should. For me it was well worth the $200 and a few hours of my time. I eventually sold the stock and dbm for cheap with full disclosure when I upgraded, and the buyer was happy with it.
 
This is a project I have wanted to try for a long time...just because. Is there a lot of material to remove from the aluminum bedding block, or is it mostly the synthetic portion?
 
OP, I don't know enough to see what the issue is. Sorry it happened.

Tho NOT intended as a slag against you, the title of your thread reminded me of a line I heard 20 years ago...

Q: What's a gunsmith's favorite tool?
A: A shooter with a Dremel.
 
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