School me on patterns, loads, chokes, range etc...

L

Longboat

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Long time shooter here of over 30 years. I shoot 95% long range target/precision rifle. I play around with other types of shooting occasionally. Do ok a skeet considering how little I do it. Not a newb shooter. But a newb hunting oriented shot gunner. Very green...

I have ZERO clue on hunting birds or where to start. I had a hunting course scheduled a few weeks back but it was canceled obviously. But I figure why not dial some things in and learn a bit.

I picked up a Mossberg 500 3 barrel combo awhile back still unfired NIB. Good enough for what I want to do.

Ammo I have sitting around are 2 3/4", 1 1/4oz #6 and #4. Maybe a bit heavy I don't know but good enough to play. Some bulk Federal target loads as well here.

Like i said, no clue what ranges I can take turkey or partridge at. Or what kind of pattern I want at certain distances. Ducks? Geese?

Any suggestions on where to start or what to do is welcome. I can take some advice then go take some shots. Post some pics of the outcome.

What should I try first?

Thanks in advance!
 
For grouse, #7 1/2 Target loads are enough for Ruffed Grouse. In thick cover you need to get on the bird fast, a more open choke is desirable.
Skeet is good practice for bird hunting, Sporting Clays is even better due to the more varied bird presentations.
Turkey hunters want a very tight choke to saturate the head/neck area with shot.
Hunting ducks over decoys I use 3 inch #2 Steel shot, and often use the same #2 Steel for Snow Geese.
Much of bird hunting is finding the right habitat holding your target quarry.
There are lots of books on shotgun shooting. I recommend Bob Brister - Shotgunning, The Art and the Science for a starter.
 
30 yards is average. 40 yards is a long shot with a shot.
The only way to truly know is to shoot at paper targes at set ranges with various loads and chokes. Each shotgun is different.
 
As a long term rifle shooter, your biggest issue won't be choke/shot selection, it will be learning to shoot with both eyes ope and not trying o use the beads as sights on flying targets. But basically,#6 or #7-1/2 for ruffed grouse, with an IC choke if you are going to shoot them on the wing, Full choke for shooting the heads off of sitting birds. If you have sharptail grouse and actual partridge, go to a Mod choke for wingshooting them. For ducks/geese #2 steel with an IC or Mod choke will work fine.
 
saskbooknut said:
For grouse, #7 1/2 Target loads are enough for Ruffed Grouse. In thick cover you need to get on the bird fast, a more open choke is desirable.
Skeet is good practice for bird hunting, Sporting Clays is even better due to the more varied bird presentations.
Turkey hunters want a very tight choke to saturate the head/neck area with shot.
Hunting ducks over decoys I use 3 inch #2 Steel shot, and often use the same #2 Steel for Snow Geese.
Much of bird hunting is finding the right habitat holding your target quarry.
There are lots of books on shotgun shooting. I recommend Bob Brister - Shotgunning, The Art and the Science for a starter.
Click to expand...

Thanks I will check that book out!
 
brybenn said:
30 yards is average. 40 yards is a long shot with a shot.
The only way to truly know is to shoot at paper targes at set ranges with various loads and chokes. Each shotgun is different.
Click to expand...

That is exactly what I am trying to get at here for now. I want to hit some paper at different distances with different chokes and loads. But I do not know what pattern I want at what distance.

I guess I will try some stuff at 30 yards and see how that goes. Maybe post some pics of the results.
 
If you are able to find a sporting range close, call and see if they have an instructor. Will save money in long term. Many of the guys that hunt waterfowl with me shoot 4&2 shot over decoys. I like 2s. I use mostly ic and mod chokes. Had a buddy from Mississippi last fall used his pass shooting extra full choke. He missed some close in shots and destroyed some of what he hit. He Used my mod choke and did much better.
 
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stubblejumper said:
As a long term rifle shooter, your biggest issue won't be choke/shot selection, it will be learning to shoot with both eyes ope and not trying o use the beads as sights on flying targets. But basically,#6 or #7-1/2 for ruffed grouse, with an IC choke if you are going to shoot them on the wing, Full choke for shooting the heads off of sitting birds. If you have sharptail grouse and actual partridge, go to a Mod choke for wingshooting them. For ducks/geese #2 steel with an IC or Mod choke will work fine.
Click to expand...

I am all good for shooting both eyes open. I always have both eyes open with handguns and carbines or anything with open sites or a red dot. Do a bit of CQB clinic here and there. Up until last Friday at least I guess.

I will do some shooting at 30 yards and see what happens with those loads and chokes.
 
a j cave said:
If you are able to find a sporting range close, call and see if they have an instructor. Will save money in long term. Many of the guys that hunt waterfowl with me shoot 4&2 shot over decoys. I like 2s.
Click to expand...

There is a sporting range at my club. Unfortunately closed down right now because of this BS scam lockdown.

One reason I want to play in the back yard is I'm bored and no range available. I have an open 50 yards I can play with at home.

Lots of guys are suggesting # 2. I will get me some of that.
 
For turkey hunting i want a very tight pattern with 100% of the pellets landing in a 30" circle at 35 yards. Tighter the better if you want to stretch the range
For steel shot i want a choke and shot combo that gives a very evenly distributed pattern to fill the entire 30" circle at 30 yards for ducks and geese.
For rabbits and squirrel i like a full choke and light lead loads for walking field edges where shots can be 30 to 40 yards. I use a cylinder choke if jumping brush piles. This is where a double really comes into its own. The more testing you do the more comfortable you will be to push the limits of your choke and ammo combinations and know when to change up
A very simple way to do things is use a mod choke for everything but theres no fun in that
 
The shot size or choke constriction wont make any difference if the gun does not fit you. Close your eyes and quickly mount your gun. You should be looking down the rib with beads aligned and not seeing the rib but rather like looking at a piece of lumber to see if its straight and true. If you repeatedly do this and have to move the gun to achieve proper alignment then the gun needs to be fitted to you. If it doesn't fit you wont hit anything or rather anything on a regular occasion. Don't aim its a shotgun, point ,follow thru on moving targets and keep your head glued to the stock. Youll still see the targets fall!! Cheers Chris
 
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