Scope adjustment limits?

oneguy

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Hi,

I know very little when it comes to scopes.

Common sense would dictate that the amount of adjustment is not unlimited.

When mounting a used scope, how do you know if it is almost at its limit of one adjustment or another?

You would want all the knobs *at zero* would you not?
 
Turn all the way to the left. Count how may turns to the right. Divide by 2. Turn that many to the left. Your now at "center" and know your max.

You can get 10 and 20 MOA rails to add more "lenght" to your scope adjustment.
 
A centred zero suggests that the tube is in fact sloped forward. The tube is already an inch of so above the bore, and the trajectory of the bullet is a fight against gravity. The bullet does not fly flat and true like a laser beam. And of course, what distance do you want the set the zero?

If you desperately need to centre the adjustments, you will need to shim the back base up a bit.
 
You'll know when you can't turn the knob or dial any more. Yes, every scope has a limit on every adjustment you can make on it. Some have more than others of course. If you're curious how much adjustment you have, simply sight in and record where your turrets are set, then turn in one direction until it stops. Do not force it past this point or you could damage the internals. Note how much travel it took to max out. Then you can go back in the opposite direction back to your zero and note how much travel you have until it stops in the opposite direction. You'll find once sighted in, your scope is most likely not in dead center of its available travel. This is perfectly fine.
 
Turn all the way to the left. Count how may turns to the right. Divide by 2. Turn that many to the left. Your now at "center" and know your max.

You can get 10 and 20 MOA rails to add more "lenght" to your scope adjustment.

Perfect. This is what I was thinking.

Can you please go into further detail on the MOA rails and how they work please?

You'll know when you can't turn the knob or dial any more. Yes, every scope has a limit on every adjustment you can make on it. Some have more than others of course. If you're curious how much adjustment you have, simply sight in and record where your turrets are set, then turn in one direction until it stops. Do not force it past this point or you could damage the internals. Note how much travel it took to max out. Then you can go back in the opposite direction back to your zero and note how much travel you have until it stops in the opposite direction. You'll find once sighted in, your scope is most likely not in dead center of its available travel. This is perfectly fine.

I understand that once sighted in my dials will not be centred / at zero. I was just thinking that you would want them there to start so you had the same amount of adjustment both ways when sighting in. Correct?
 
Perfect. This is what I was thinking.

Can you please go into further detail on the MOA rails and how they work please?



I understand that once sighted in my dials will not be centred / at zero. I was just thinking that you would want them there to start so you had the same amount of adjustment both ways when sighting in. Correct?


Unless you have adjustable bases the scope adjustments will end up at the same point whether you first center them before mounting or not. People love to discuss methods of centering scopes, but seem to be light on explaining why.
 
Perfect. This is what I was thinking.

Can you please go into further detail on the MOA rails and how they work please?

They simply "tilt" the scope downward, tilting the barrel upward in relation to the scope center. This raises your point of impact. Sighted in at short range you will be adjusted further towards the top of your adjustment range. This gives you additional elevation adjustment for shooting at longer distances. Obviously the further you shoot, the more the bullet drops. Adjusting for this drop at a certain distance you will reach the limit of your elevation travel and no longer be able to dial up. A canted base extends that point. The amount of cant will be advertised by the manufacturer. 20 moa is most common. This will raise your point of impact by 20 moa. So 20" @ 100 yds, 200" @ 1000 yds etc. That is a sizeable amount and will increase the range you can adjust your scope too by a good amount.



I understand that once sighted in my dials will not be centred / at zero. I was just thinking that you would want them there to start so you had the same amount of adjustment both ways when sighting in. Correct?

Not necessarily, the chips will fall where they may as it were. Depending on the type of rifle I use 1 of 2 sight in methods that don't need any specific starting point. For a bolt action that I can look down the bore from behind the rifle I'll set the rifle up on sandbags and remove the bolt. I'll look down the bore and center my target in the view through the bore. Target is at 100 yds. Then without moving the rifle I'll get behind the scope and see where the crosshairs are sitting. I'll make adjustments until the crosshairs are centered on the target with the target centered in the bore. First round is always within a few inches of center. A quick adjustment and the rifle is sighted in. If I can't view through the bore I'll start at 25 yds, fire a couple rounds and adjust a few inches high of center then move out to a longer distance and fine tune. Neither method benefits from centering the turrets. There's enough misalignment to need some adjustment anyways, and both methods don't waste much ammo if done with care. But of course everyone has their own way of sighting in so find what works for you. Just don't forget to have fun along the way!
...
 
Can you just put the scope against a mirror and adjust until the two sets of crosshairs line up?

Yes. That is by far the easiest way to get your crosshairs in the optical center. (you need to get a bit of gap between mirror and front of scope tube to get a bit of light in to actually see both the crosshair and its reflection).
When installing bases, especially side mount systems, it is very helpful to get first get crosshairs centered, mount scope in rings, then rings onto bases - get one mount screw installed and then boresight - adjust / shim mounts as needed so final installation is "close" when finished - this was procedure used to mount the side mount base pads for Lee Enfield sniper rifles - check out the articles on Milsurp site by Ladler.
 
There is the odd scope that you can't turn from one extreme to another to find find center. On these ones the knobs will still turn but the crosshairs quit moving. I've only come across this twice but they can't be the only two out there. One I found on a boresighter and the other was discovered when the elevator quit elevating at 500 yards. Without taking a can opener to the scope I can only speculate that they were set up to run off the end of the threads instead of risking breaking something.
 
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