Hi! Welcome to this great world of precision shooting!
I adjust scopes at my local range so I see a lot of them! My 2 cents (not particularly organized, just a bunch of hints):
- when new, most scopes will do. But the cheaper ones will break faster.
- avoid reticules with heavy thick lines. They mask your target.
- DO NOT buy cheap rings.
- Weaver rings with screws on one side only are the worst.
- Flip to the side rings should not even exist!
- Best screws are tork screws. High quality rings include them. Hex is ok, but be careful not to strip them. Flat head screws do not belong on a rifle. The screw driver will slip and you will scratch your rifle.
- DO NOT buy see through rings. They raise your scope to much. Get your scope as low as you can.
- BUT make sure the scope does NOT touch the barrel. I have seen many broken scopes because of that.
- If you can afford it, get a torque wrench. I use my 15Lbs-in wrench to tighten the top ring screws. This way it is always tight enough and I do not strip them (like I did at first...).
- Most merchants will only tighten the rings screws so that the scope stays in place in the store. They are NEVER tight enough.
- They will "pre-adjust" your scope using all sorts of gizmo's. This pre-adjustment is barely enough for you to touch paper at 50 yards. Go to the range and adjust it properly (or get someone help you do it for the first time).
- you do not need a bore sighter to get your scope pre-adjusted. Remove the bolt and aim at a target while looking through your barrel. Then - without moving your rifle one bit - adjust your scope turrets to the same target. It will get you close enough to start.
- Set your scope as far forward as you can and still get a clear picture. Make sure you do not get the scope kicking you in the face!
- the focus adjustment on the eye piece is to adjust the reticule focus.
- get a mildot or TMR reticule.
- Avoid scope that claim to have bullet drop compensation (BDC) already dialed in. Learn to use clics or mildots. These BDC vary from round to round. They are good approximations, but not dead on.
- You do NOT need a 24X60 scope! I have a 3-10X40mm on my 308 and I have shot it up to 1000 yards. The scope is there for you to aim, not see paper holes at 500 yards. Get a spotting scope for that.
- Quick warning for hunting stores. They want you to walk out with something. So if they do not have what you need, they will sell you what they have. Ex. high rings when low would do. Be patient.
When I get new gear, I do this:
- setup the base, rings, scope.
- check that the scope is close to alignment. If it is mechanically off center, it might be hard to zero it.
- check that the scope is properly distanced from my eye. As far forward as possible like i mentioned before.
- check that the reticule is level. I set up a level on a flat surface of my rifle. And I hand a thick string across the shop. I can then verify that the reticule is straight. I do not trust my gut for this, I get real level references. ** I know the surfaces on my rifle might not be level, but it is close enough for my needs.
- Tighten everything nice. Ring screws, 15lbs-in. Base screws 65lbs-in (check the brand you choose, this might vary). Locktite (blue) on base, not the ring screws.
- pre-ajust with a bore sighter or through the barrel.
- shoot at 50 yards, adjust to 0.
- shoot at 100 yards, adjust to 0.
- I might 0 at 200 yards, or whatever other distance, that is your call.
- I do a scope test:
1- shoot at every zoom on the scope. Point of impact must not move. If it does, replace it!
2- give it 16 clicks right, shoot.
give it 16 clicks up, shoot.
give it 16 clicks left, shoot.
give it 16 clicks down, shoot.
repeat entire square 3 times.
you should have 4 groups of 3 rounds. If the scope does not return to it's original aimpoint, replace it!
- repeat scope tests once a year to make sure it's still good.
Quick brands list:
- Bushnell. Cheap, a lot of people have them. POS in my book (even the elite series), I see SO many broken Bushnells that they are banned from my rifles.
- Leupold. Obviously higher grade scopes will do, but are more expensive. I would just say avoid the cheap entry level models. Avoid VX-3L models with that lens cut out. See my note about not needing a large scope above. My personal scope is a Mark-4. Be careful of cheap Chinese copies, buy from a reputable store. Used ones are ok if you can check the serial number first and call Leupold to check that the number matches the description.
- Nikon. Never seen a broken one. The image is clear, consider them.
- Tasco. I do not see many of those, can't comment much.
- Swarovsky: if you can afford it.
- Night Force: if you can afford it.
- leica: if you can afford it and find one!
- Zeiss. Nice quality. Tend to have less elevation adjustment than "American" scopes, so they must be set close to mechanical zero.
When I started I did:
- read, learn, understand, apply The Ultimate Sniper: An Advanced Training Manual for Military and Police Snipers. This book talks about a lot of the things I put in this reply. It's a decent starting point.
- get, learn, understand, apply the Shooter Ready simulation software. You WILL understand mildots after doing that!
- talk, listen and apply the lessons of more experienced shooters. After a while you will be able to identify the posers and the real good ones. Look at the targets. They are a better indicator than anything they will say. If you find one that is patient and willing to help, you will learn a lot quickly!
- take a course if you can find and afford one. I flew down to Oklahoma to participate in one, best vacation ever!
Obviously your mileage will vary and my post will probably spark a few debates. This is what I do. Like everything else you will read or hear on the subject, take it all at first, then filter the bull#### and make up your own mind through experience.
I could go on for pages and pages still, but enough for now. Now go shoot grass hoper!
Nic
