Scope alignment issue

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Alpheus

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Just got my new build finished and went to the range today. Zeroing was easy, just peered down the barrel and adjusted scope. First shot at 100yds on paper. Good to go. Problem is my windage is significantly to the right is terms of available adjustment. Scope is NF, so windage moves point of impact. So if to zero, I have to shift PoI way to the right, that means if my windage was centered, my PoI would be to the left of the cross-hairs, right? This means my scope is angled to the right of my PoI, correct?

Seems simple enough, but is giving me fits and I'd like a second opinion.
 
Should mention this is with a 20moa rail and Burris Signature Zee rings. Elevation is good, quite close to the bottom.
 
I find the burris plus accesory kit would take care of slight alingment issues pretty fast if necessary.. I assume this is a one piece rail
 
If the group is forming to the right, then adjust the windage knob to move the group to the left. Once it is on, slip the scale to "0".

Or are you asking about shifting the scope in the mount, using the eccentric ring inserts?
 
silverfoxdj said:
I find the burris plus accesory kit would take care of slight alingment issues pretty fast if necessary.. I assume this is a one piece rail
Click to expand...

Yes, one piece. I have the 0.010 inserts in, with the + 0.010 at the bottom of the rear rings and at the top of the front rings. Like I said, elevation is good so I don't want to do what the Burris instructions say and start rotating the inserts. If I just rotate the rear inserts on their vertical axis, will that work?
 
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tiriaq said:
If the group is forming to the right, then adjust the windage knob to move the group to the left. Once it is on, slip the scale to "0".

Or are you asking about shifting the scope in the mount, using the eccentric ring inserts?
Click to expand...

I want to shift the scope, so that I have more equal amounts of adjustment left and right.
 
Alpheus said:
Yes, one piece. I have the 0.010 inserts in, with the + 0.101 at the bottom of the rear rings and at the top of the front rings. Like I said, elevation is good so I don't want to do what the Burris instructions say and start rotating the inserts. If I just rotate the rear inserts on their vertical axis, will that work?
Click to expand...

There usually is an instruction sheet with them that cover doing it, I believe it will work but would check the docs..
 
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Tried flipping the inserts, no significant change. Tried rotating them, got more elevation but no change in windage. Next I'll try the front inserts.
 
If you already have a 20 MOA base, why would you add another 20 MOA using your Burris inserts (like you describe?). As of now, you have 40 MOA of cant, and this is why your NF is close to bottom on the elevation. Do you really need all this elevation adjustment? Are you shooting out to 2000 yds?

If your windage adjustment on scope is way right, yet your zeroed, you will need to adjust inserts to "aim" your scope further left (thick side of insert right side of ring, thin side of insert left side of ring). If you do both fore and aft rings (with your 0.010" inserts), this will free up 20 MOA and bring your scope's windage closer to mechanical zero. If you do either front, or rear (i.e. not both) your looking at a 10 MOA adjustment.

To start, I would bring back your windage to mechanical zero. If it's 80 MOA for example, set it in the middle at 40 MOA. Then go to the range and see how many inches LEFT of a large target your POI is. Then adjust your inserts accordingly as per above (20 or 10 MOA). Btw, you can order other inserts that give you 20 MOA per ring, so using on both fore and aft ring you can adjust up to 40 MOA. I had to adjust a muzzleloader of mine 30 MOA scope tilt upwards (i.e. opposite direction of your 20 MOA base) as my elevation was bottomed out (60 MOA scope).

I think above is correct, please let me know if I got it backwards.
 
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