Scope base Steel VS Aluminum

SanQ

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I am looking to buy 2-pc base for browning a-bolt.(weaver-style)
question is, are Steel ones a lot stronger/more durable than the Aluminum ones?
price wise, steel one is 10X more expensive (leupold vs weaver). is it even 2x better?

thanks
 
I've used the aluminum ones on everything including an A-Bolt 375H&H with no problems at all. I like the steel ones better, but only cuz they look nicer.

Buy good rings like Burris Z Rings or Millets. Some of the older style Weaver brand rings will pinch the scope and put a nice dent in it for you.



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SanQ said:
I have no experience with thoes rings.
are they(Burris and Millets) better than leupold?

thx
Sure, Leupold would be good rings too. :)

I was just warning about NOT using the old style weaver brand with the two screws on one side of the ring cap.



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I was just warning about NOT using the old style weaver brand with the two screws on one side of the ring cap.
Tends to rotate the scope when tightning the ring screws.
I like steel on a heavy recoil rifle, light stuff only require light rings, and makes for an easy carry, it all counts. And a scope is aluminum :D
 
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Of course steel is stronger than aluminum but will it make a difference in this case?Maybe.maybe not.I prefer the all steel leupold rings and bases myself.
 
thanks for helping make up my mine. I will go for the leupold steel base.

now, what about rings? :D

Leupold? or any other good brand to recommend?

thx
 
leupold it is then!

for browning a-bolt stainless stalker 7mm rem mag. leupold QRW base, what size of 1" ring should I get? low or med? (scope is nikon monoarch 4-9X40mm BDC)

thx
 
SanQ said:
leupold it is then!

for browning a-bolt stainless stalker 7mm rem mag. leupold QRW base, what size of 1" ring should I get? low or med? (scope is nikon monoarch 4-9X40mm BDC)

thx

Get whatever rings allow you to mount your scope as low as possible on your rifle. Allot of times Leupold will recomend medium rings when you can easily get away with low rings.

Take your rifle and scope with you when you buy. Most of the time the guys behind the counter wont try unless you ask them to.
 
Yep, try and see. I prefer Low rings, and find they usually work perfectly with Sporter contoured barrels and 40mm rings. The lower the better, usually.

Most my scopes have very little clearance between the bell and the barrel, and that's the way I like it. Better cheek weld, and I find them more aesthetically pleasing.

Like this one:
Ruger_77-22_22Hornet-small.jpg


There's only a sliver between the 50mm bell and the barrel. Enough to slide a bill under, but no more. As it is, the big 6-18x50 scope makes the gun look small (it's got a 24" barrel). Much higher, and it starts to look really goofy
 
TPS has been asked by some customers to respond to the Aluminum vs Steel debate on the bases.

As most know, the debate regarding the aluminum vs. steel debate has been going on since about the first lawn chair hit the sandy beach in Florida.

We fully recognize, understand and appreciate the hardcore and die-hard folks who wish to have real steel on their sticks. About half of our company's employee's have the same point of view. However, the reality of the application of the two materials is not so cut and dry. When you get into comparing strength differences between aluminum alloys and steel alloys, it's like comparing apples to bananas. The thermal coefficients of expansion are different as well, which has nothing to do with the strength, which has already been pointed out.

The strength (the part that truly matters) of the 7075-T651 Aluminum Alloy is far stronger than is even remotely necessary for the application that it has been tasked to accomplish in this discussion. TPS has and is in the process of having another independent testing done of it's 7075 Aluminum rings and bases done again. The first testing, done last year for customer contract requirements, involved our TSR 30mm (30580) 7075 Aluminum alloy rings. Our rings withstood a whooping 25,000 G's before failure. Even at such numbers of G-Force's, they still didn't catastrophically fail, only the clamps gave out.

As for the thermal problems of a rifle heating up Un-proportiantly to the steel, TPS doesn't see that as an issue with rings and bases. If the bases were mounted directly onto the barrel, there may be a reason for concern, however in most circumstances the temperature increase on the receiver of a turnbolt rifle is so insignificant, that it would be almost undetectable in the mount. Even if the base was steel, mounted directly to a barrel which was being fired and consequently thermally heated from firing, the base would not heat evenly with the barrel. Because the mount would be exposed to un-proportiant amount of airflow, the mount would continue to be lower in temperature than the barrel. The transfer of heat between the barrel and the rail itself would be also different, due to the inability for the two similar metal to bond together at a molecular state.

All in all, as always, it makes some darn good discussions around the firepit, but in actual practice, only one thing really matters. Complete your mission and come home safe.

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We refuse to compromise our quality for pricing.
100% USA Made.
 
...regarding aluminum rings...I have had threads strip in the bottoms of aluminum rings....I also have some rings that are aluminum and very tough and I have one older set of Kesselrings that were crap but had helicoil threads installed and worked great...of course (to be balanced here) I have also had a thread strip in a European (steel) rail mount...the moral is ...properly designed either works fine....

Some steel mounting rigs can be pretty heavy though and a heavy scope on high rings with a older Redfield steel one piece base on a LA Remington can change the handling characteristics (and not positively!) of a hunting rifle in a hurry....
 
Get whatever rings allow you to mount your scope as low as possible on your rifle. Allot of times Leupold will recomend medium rings when you can easily get away with low rings.
Sorry to say the low as poss. idea is something that came about a long time ago, and is still with us for some strange reason :D , get that scope on so that when you shoulder the firearm, the scope is clear all round, same for eye relief. You don't want to have to hunt down a clear picture, so if your 6.5 feet tall you may want high rings. Hope I explained this proper.:)
 
Sorry to say the low as poss. idea is something that came about a long time ago, and is still with us for some strange reason , get that scope on so that when you shoulder the firearm, the scope is clear all round, same for eye relief.

x2

for an extreme example of the wisdom of this statement have a look at the scope height on David Tubbs original "chin gun" .. makes the point I think that it is the height that works for you! Some Europeans like an upright stance and can accomodate higher scopes effectively... sometimes too low an ocular bell and you can't work the bolt handle...a fat (I mean "full figured") face can make a low to the stock mounting tough to use ....etc etc
 
You can go as low as you want as long as your cheek weld is good. Eye relief should be the same at any height. Really has nothing to do with your height, but more on the size of your face. One of the ideas of getting as low as possible, came as Snipers could observe there own shot. Which makes sense on why you would want to get as close to the bore as possible. It makes it more accurate for hunting also, as there would be less chance of hitting a object with the scope as close to the bore as possible. Alot of accidents have happened with over, under rings. Just because your eye is way over the bore of the rifle.
my two cents,
 
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