Scope mounts

[mysticbear]

When you mount a scope on a firearm you would normally bore sight or use some method of alignment before heading out to the range. This should put you on paper at fifty yards.

My question is how much adjustment do you attempt with the scope or at what point would you attempt to shim or adjust the mounts.

For example...... if you were to end up five inches low at 50 yards that would be 40 clicks to zero. Would that throw the X hairs off center???

Thanks for any suggestions.

mb

 

[oldbadger]

The reticle is mounted in such in a short tube, adjusting for up/down or left/right tips this little guy a tiny amount. The cross hairs atay in the same relationship to one another. The real problem is whether or not your scope allows you to move the cross hairs that far. New scopes scopes (usually) come out of the box with the reticle optically centred. If a massive adjustment is required to bring the thing on centre, the problem is likely not in the scope. You probably have a mismatched set of bases or rings.

The exception is in longer range (800m +) shooting where a special slanted base is often used to allow the scope to be mounted slightly (usually 20MOA, which is 1/3 of a degree) nose downward to allow the muzzle to be brought up to compensate for the rainbow trajectory involved.

If you are not setting up for long range stuff, check your mounts!

One other thing to remember is that the movement of the crosshairs is counterintuitive; they actually have to point lower to shoot further.

 

[Fall Guy]

I saw a guy at the range with a 32mm scope mounted in high rings.

He ran out of adjustment range on the scope and couldn't bring the bullet up enough. He decided to replace the rings.

Shooting from a solid rest, I mess around at 25 yards and then go back to 100.

 

[beretta boy]

In something like a Leupold VX-II ( 2x7 ), according to their specs,
there is something like 75" of adjustment at 100 yards - or about
37-1/2" ( 150 "clicks ) each way. As per your example, make the 40 click adjustment & don't wory about it.

 

[mysticbear]

In something like a Leupold VX-II ( 2x7 ), according to their specs,
there is something like 75" of adjustment at 100 yards - or about
37-1/2" ( 150 "clicks ) each way. As per your example, make the 40 click adjustment & don't wory about it.

Thanks. thats the info I was looking for. On my scope they just say if you have to move the point of aim it too far shim.. Not how much is too much.. All of this information is in ten languages for your convenience.

mb

 

[bisonhd]

I find trying to boresight at home before going to the range pretty much a waste of time. The sight picture/the way you mount the rifle often seems different when your at the firing line.

I will make sure the mounts, rings fit and line up but will leave it rings loose for adjustment at the range.

At the range I will level the cross hairs and with the scope at it's highest magnification, adjust for eye relief.

Remove the bolt and as best you can and secure the rifle in some sort of rest. Looking down the bore find a obvious object and center the barrel on it and then without moving a thing, look through the scope. If the cross hairs are way off I may shim or adjust windage with the scope mounts. (don't bend the scope tube) If close, turn the turrets and walk the cross hairs onto the boresighted object.

You don't want to be adjusting your scope to the limits, instead you want to maintain as close as possible that factory centered setting.

 

[gunrunner100]

You don't want to be adjusting your scope to the limits, instead you want to maintain as close as possible that factory centered setting.

This is where a good set of mounts and rings come into play. I find Weaver rings (and mounts) to be about the least friendly on scopes. Redfield, Burris and Leupold about the best in the medium price market, due to the windage adjustable rear, other than Dual Dovetail. Important thing to remember is to turn the dovetail quite a bit until there is easy lateral movement, so that if windage on the rear is necessary, you don't put undue side pressure on your optics.

 

[Levi Garrett]

If your using rings that have windage adjustments (leupold) try and get the ring(rear windage ring setup) in the center of the base. And when at the range remove the bolt, center the bore on the corner of the target , and look through the scope. If your off in the scope, adjust till they match. Fire a round , should be on paper. If not shoot into the backstop at an object , see how far your off, and while holding on the aim point, adjust to impact point. Then back to paper.

Now if the windage seems screwed in too far or out to far, have a flathead screwdriver along to correct the error in windage on the ring. Then correct the input on the dials.