Scope Reticle Leveling Tool, what works best, does my imaginary tool exist?

dand883

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Whenever i am mounting a new scope I usually just get it close with the crappy little magnetic level and then just trial and error it by eye to get it reasonably level and call it a day, but i have been thinking about getting a tool to help make things go a bit smoother.

I don't like the wheeler level bubble type of tools. i don't like trusting that the rail, barrel, scope cap, etc all line up perfectly enough and that the bubble is accurate enough to really give me the peace of mind i want.

The Real Avid Pro leveler looks promising, but again you're dealing with bubbles, plus it's a whole big thing to store and set up.

I thought i remembered seeing something years ago that looked similar to the EXD Engineering vertical reticle instrument on brownells, but instead of using it to get level and then aligning to an external plumb bob or something similar it had like a wire or something down the center that once it was centered on the barrel and scope with the V blocks you lined the reticle up to so it would be aligned with the barrel/scope axis and you didn't need to worry about level bubbles.

This just seemed so much simpler to me to cut out the level bubbles, but i can't find anything that resembles what i am thinking of in my head.

Did something like this exist just isn't made anymore? Was i just thinking of the EXD tool and using the side of the slot to line up to?

Is there another better option that I haven't seen yet that doesn't rely on a bunch of bubbles?

Should this be in the gunsmithing section vs the optics section? I wasn't sure which would be more appropriate, but i figured this was the best spot.
 
Level the receiver and fix it in place. Hang a plumb line or mark a plumb line and use that to adjust the scope.

I don't currently have a vice to fix it in place, just the V block bench holder. I also always assume that things moved and would want to check it afterword, but once the scope is on i can't double check on the weaver mount. Than you're in to other bubbles in other places, assuming they're all accurate, etc. I just want to avoid bubbles on bubbles on bubbles.
 
I fix the rifle in my vise (you can use V-block if you're careful), putting a bubble level across the mounts to get the rifle level in the vise. Then mount the lower half ring and verify it's still level . Then lay scope on rings and level using the Verticle turret top to level both directions. I place top rings and tighten, watching to verify level 'cause tightening screws will move the level. :eek:
When firing, pay attention to your hold as that can affect the rifle 'cant' - make sure reticle bars are 'square' as possible. I often find myself holding with the rifle canted a bit, and that will affect hits even at only 25-yds. :rolleyes:
 
I use a plumb line and just put the rifle in a lead sled rest and use a leveler that sits flush to the rail. It was part of a reticle leveling kit I picked up at the local gun store. Shim it with some paper towel or whatever you have to keep it from owing and double check it stays level while you adjust and tighten everything.
 
I put it on the counter on a bipod, use one of those small 1 foot levels to level it. Drop the scope on. Stick the level to side of the fridge. Shine a light through your scope, match the shadow of the reticle to the level.

Then.. fine corrections with the tall test if necessary
 
I'll use a level on the action or rail to get the rifle level, then I'll loosely mount the scope and level the reticle to a plumb Bob. Then I install a bubble scope level on the scope so it's level no matter the rifle I place it on. Double check the reticle and bubble level to the plumb Bob.
 
What are you leveling your cross hair to? The receiver runway or rail flats? I always suspect the caps is never a good flat to rely on, but the bottom of the scope turret should be flat.

Seems to me that your method should be fine. Are you having an issue with scope cant at distance?

The scope cant issue will be a measure of the leveling bubble you use in the field on the rifle. That is usually corrected after the tall target test. Depending on the scope, the elevation dial range may not match the reticle in orientation, hence why the tall target corrects for that.

The tool I'd recommend would be that, the tall target test. Correcting that is a bit of an art with a rubber mallet and torque wrench involving a few trial and errors.

I'll use a level on the action or rail to get the rifle level, then I'll loosely mount the scope and level the reticle to a plumb Bob. Then I install a bubble scope level on the scope so it's level no matter the rifle I place it on. Double check the reticle and bubble level to the plumb Bob.

I have the little wheeler levels, one that goes on top of the turret and the other is magnetic to stick on somewhere. I just hate that no matter what i do with those levels it's always off cant when i pick it up.
I then do it by eye, stand back, line it up to the receiver, pick it up and look through a few times and eventually get it to where i am happy with it, i just am done with levels and their inaccuracies and there has to be a better way.

I can't imagine why i can't just put something like the EXD or the front part of the avid pro on, get that plane that goes through the center of the scope and barrel from the V blocks and line up to that and skip the need to level this and level that and level this to that and trust that each level is accurate, hasn't moved or twisted since i last checked it.
 
I got concrete walls. So I just used a level and drew a flat line across from where my bench is.

Its simple, as I found that there been times were the scope caps were not flat. I also use a level and a barrel clamp level. So once I get the barrel level, leveled with the action, I don't need to worry about moving as I always have a reference.
 
For most scopes the caps are only square to the reticle by 3°. I mount the rifle how ill shoot it, and align my scope line with the ocean i see out my window.
 
I use a bubble level on receiver, bipod with shims and a plumb line (you can look in the scope through the objective at maximum magnification or through the eyepiece). I wondered about using a quality laser boresight to help aligning the barrel itself with the plumb line and then your ensure full verticality of the rifle by aligning the crosshair too, but the distance between the point of aim and point of sight is so short that it would be easy to make significant errors in alignment. It seems to me that bubble levels are sensitive enough.
 
The Real Avid pro scope level kit is one that I've had my eye on for months. The components have bubble levels, but have flats that you should be able to use a proper level like Canadaman posted for a more precise level.
Issue is that the kit hasn't been in stock anywhere forever.
 
This is the best money I've spent on scope mounting tools-

https://parabola-llc.com

It really streamlines the mounting process, without multiple 'moving parts' or stacking errors. If the rifle/scope system will be getting a bubble level, I just set it up on a plumb bob after tightening the rings and install the bubble level.
 
This is the best money I've spent on scope mounting tools-

https://parabola-llc.com

It really streamlines the mounting process, without multiple 'moving parts' or stacking errors. If the rifle/scope system will be getting a bubble level, I just set it up on a plumb bob after tightening the rings and install the bubble level.

I've seen those before but never really looked closely at them, they worked good for you?
 
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