Scope shifts in Rings on a Marlin 336

FraserValley

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Hi, I have a Marlin 336 with a factory scope / ring / rail set up.

The Scope is basic, but fine, and holds its zero.

The rail worked itself loose over 100 rounds or so, and I had to retighten it. Turns out that the screw closest to the hammer blocks the action if turned too tight !

More problematic are the scope rings, after 5 - 10 shots, the scope ends up shifting position, specifically it tilts to the right.

I adjusted it while at the range a couple of times, but it always moves.

I have tightened the ring screws, but am concerned that if I over tighten them that I'll damage the scope tube.

Any good fixes or is this a case of "buy some better rings" ?
 
Sounds like your rail screw is a bit to long. Maybe check if they are all the same length?
Once you get your rail screws sorted for length you should blue loctite them.

Are your ring halves touching? There are some tricks some people use to increase the friction between the scope and rings.

A torque wrench is handy if you don't have a feel for acceptable torque.... With an Allen type key the max torque will depend on your strength,where you hold the wrench and if your using your fingers or wrist.

They must be pretty loose, or poorly fitting to allow twisting on a 30-30 after only a few rounds.
 
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OP, if Marlin (until recently owned by Remington) uses same supplier as for their 783 rifles, the bases, base screws, rings and scope have to be the least expensive things possible to assemble and call a "package" - if not willing to take them up on each of your issues, then I would suggest sourcing and properly installing "real" bases and rings, at least. You may or may not chose to use Weaver, which tends to also be made of aluminum in China, but so far I have found the screws okay. Screws being too long and needed a thread or two filed off to work properly is pretty much part of the scope and base mounting game. Either you do it, or insist the manufacturer do it, correctly. Coming loose on a 30-30 can not have been done correctly, in my experience. Good Luck.

Added: Scope shifting in rings - when cap screws are tightened up, there should be an air gap between cap and bottom of ring - if it is tight together, more torque on the screws will not help - rings are "over-size" for scope body. But can sometimes gain enough by filing top faces of bottom half and bottom face of caps, if you are not insisting that the manufacture do it correctly.
 
Added: Scope shifting in rings - when cap screws are tightened up, there should be an air gap between cap and bottom of ring - if it is tight together, more torque on the screws will not help - rings are "over-size" for scope body. But can sometimes gain enough by filing top faces of bottom half and bottom face of caps, if you are not insisting that the manufacture do it correctly.

The rings may indeed be an ill fit.

Any suggestions on what could be a good filler ?
 
Hmm - I meant to use a file - to reduce the height of the two halves of the rings - to get a space between the top and bottom halves when the screws are tight. Have never had a lot of luck by filling in stuff inside the rings, although have read of people using double sided tape, etc. But, if your outfit is "newish", should be for the manufacturer to resolve - if attempting yourself, you absolve them of everything.
 
Maybe I'll just go with some Kwik Site rings and be done with it.

I am using a see through set on a different rifle and they work well.

At present I wouldn't want a Marlin stuck in the warranty process.

Once Ruger takes them fully over, and life gets back to normal, I'd be more comfortable with that option.
 
Hi, I have a Marlin 336 with a factory scope / ring / rail set up.

The Scope is basic, but fine, and holds its zero.

The rail worked itself loose over 100 rounds or so, and I had to retighten it. Turns out that the screw closest to the hammer blocks the action if turned too tight !

More problematic are the scope rings, after 5 - 10 shots, the scope ends up shifting position, specifically it tilts to the right.

I adjusted it while at the range a couple of times, but it always moves.

I have tightened the ring screws, but am concerned that if I over tighten them that I'll damage the scope tube.

Any good fixes or is this a case of "buy some better rings" ?


File the offending screw or screws to proper length.

As for the rings, one easy, quick and dirty fix is to cover the bottom of the ring saddle with one thickness of masking tape and all should be well.

There is also a product available made with polymer cloth, with glue on one side for the purpose.
 
This suggestion is probably insufficient to fix your problem, but I always shake some rosin powder on the inside of the scope rings when I mount a scope. This provides some resistance to prevent slipping. However, the rings have to be pretty tight around the scope to start with.
 
Some electrical tape around the scope where the rings clamp; or blue lock-tite between the scope and rings, and on the screws.
 
You could always wrap lots of duct tape around the rings and scope... get it in camo and it might not look too bad...
 
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