I'm currently trying to remove a pesky screw from an old SMLE, the thing is just stuck solidly there and won't budge, needless to say the thing is pretty much ruined by now. Is there a trick to removing such an old, rusted in, pretty much stripped flathead screw ?
Screw removal problem
- Thread starter RobSmith
- Start date
try this: http://http://www.kleenflo.com/fr/productpages/products/807.gif
http://www.kleenflo.com/fr/index.htm
then, with a chisel, try to make a hole in the head of your screw, this will alow you to unscrew it with a punch.
in french:
tape sur le coté de la tete avec un chisel, pour faire une bonne encoche, apres avec un punch a bout pointu il sera possible de frapper en angle et de faire dévisser la vis.
http://www.kleenflo.com/fr/index.htm
then, with a chisel, try to make a hole in the head of your screw, this will alow you to unscrew it with a punch.
in french:
tape sur le coté de la tete avec un chisel, pour faire une bonne encoche, apres avec un punch a bout pointu il sera possible de frapper en angle et de faire dévisser la vis.
Which screw? In general there are a few tricks - fit the screwdriver closely to the screw. Be patient. Tap the screwdriver firmly, this can help break the screw loose. Use a screwjack or drillpress to hold the screwdriver firmly in the slot. Apply a wrench to the screwdriver to increase torque. Use an impact driver. Use a little cold chisel to clean up the slot. Use some penetrating oil. Heat. Drill the sucker out. Really, it can depend on which screw. Obviously you can twist the head off a smaller one. The chisel technique described above can work. Is it important that the screw can be reused, or will it be replaced?
Fore stock screw is the culprit, the rifle has been "sporterised" and although it looks pretty good as it is (typical deer gun), I prefer the original military "look". So i'll try to locate either an original or repro set of forward wood (everything except the shoulder stock) as well as the various other missing bits and pieces to bring her back to a reasonable approximation of her former glory.
The problem with the offending screw is that it's surrounded by wood, so heat/chemicals are probably a bad idea, gotta be able to still use the rifle while I hunt down the missing parts so I don't want to destroy the existing fore-stock. As for reusability of the screw once removed, it's just an enfield screw, shouldn't be too hard to replace if I end up trashing it.
The problem with the offending screw is that it's surrounded by wood, so heat/chemicals are probably a bad idea, gotta be able to still use the rifle while I hunt down the missing parts so I don't want to destroy the existing fore-stock. As for reusability of the screw once removed, it's just an enfield screw, shouldn't be too hard to replace if I end up trashing it.
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ok if your replacing said screw take a center punch and put a little ding where the center is then drill into said screw with a small drill (small enough that it wont damage anything or drill off the head) then go to crappy tire and get a set of easy-outs also known as an extracter the look kind like left handed drill bits but meaner insert easy-out into newlt drilled hole grip back side with wrench or socket (back is square to allow for this) turn counter clockwise (as you turn the easy-out bites into wall of screw and becomes part of it)should get it out without damaging anything besides screw
RePete said:
if your replacing the wood auto trans fluid might be better and easier on the bluing
the detergents in diesel have a detremental effect of bluing at least on my 303 it did ended up have a few blemishes and bad spots where i accidently spilled diesel on hands right before hadling mine
