screw tension on P14 assembly?

[fenelon]

Just picked up a nice P-14 sporter on the EE, and could use some advice on screw pressure when reassembling the stock. Only two screws. Tighten the back down 100% first, then a 70% tighten on the front? Also - anyone know where you can get taller front blades for shooting at 100meters? Looks like the ladder has 200yds as the minimum, and battle flat peep is set at 300yds.

 

[purple]

The idea with a Mauser type is to fully seat the front guard screw before the rear one. My normal practice with a M1903, Mauser or P14/M1917 Enfield is to assemble the rifle, and before fully tightening the guard screws, bump the buttplate on a piece of 2x4 to fully seat the recoil lug on the mortise of the stock. Then tighten up the guard screws. The front screw should be "gorilla tight" using a properly fitting screwdriver with a 4-6 inch shank. The rear screw can be a bit less tight.

With these rifles you should also check that the steel stock bushing for the rear guard screw is in place. Without it, tightening the rear guard screw will cause the action to bend. It's also a good idea to check for wood/metal clearance at the upper tang of the action. If there is tight metal/wood contact here the tang can act as a recoil lug and cause the stock to split/crack. I've seen the front sight blades for sale on Ebay under the category of "enfield". Even with a taller sight blade the rifle may still tend to shoot a bit high @ 100 yds with a 6 o'clock hold.

 

[sunray]

Just screw 'em in tight. There's no scientific data or mil-specs about screw tightness for a P14.
Do think there are aftermarket parts for 'em. Sighting in a bit high isn't bad. You just need to know where to aim for closer distances. Plan 'B' would be a fully adjustable William's receiver sight you can get from Brownell's. Or William's. Their model #FP-17-TK. $71.99US. Didn't say it was the best or least expensive plan.

 

[Tyler]

The idea with a Mauser type is to fully seat the front guard screw before the rear one. My normal practice with a M1903, Mauser or P14/M1917 Enfield is to assemble the rifle, and before fully tightening the guard screws, bump the buttplate on a piece of 2x4 to fully seat the recoil lug on the mortise of the stock. Then tighten up the guard screws. The front screw should be "gorilla tight" using a properly fitting screwdriver with a 4-6 inch shank. The rear screw can be a bit less tight.

With these rifles you should also check that the steel stock bushing for the rear guard screw is in place. Without it, tightening the rear guard screw will cause the action to bend. It's also a good idea to check for wood/metal clearance at the upper tang of the action. If there is tight metal/wood contact here the tang can act as a recoil lug and cause the stock to split/crack. I've seen the front sight blades for sale on Ebay under the category of "enfield". Even with a taller sight blade the rifle may still tend to shoot a bit high @ 100 yds with a 6 o'clock hold.

As usual, Purple is bang on. Emphasis mine.

I have seen a number of P-14's and Mauser style rifles with cracked stocks at the tang area because of people not watching out for this. Make sure you have enough clearance.

If you are unsure of how well your stock bushings fit, check them with this test:

Install the forestock without the bushing, and tighten the screw down until it just snugs up (not too tight). Mark it using the slot as reference, then remove and reinstall the wood with the bushing, and tighten the screw good and tight...if you're short of the mark you made the first time, your bushing is too long. Since you're looking for a slight crushing of the wood (.010 thousandths of an inch) when everything's tight, an eighth or so turn past the mark ought to have you about right.

As for sights, just set it to 200 properly, and when at 100 yards, use a six o'clock hold and aim an inch and a bit lower. Works for me.