Sealing Metal after polishing

[TrevorMack]

So I have been messing around with a few project guns lately, trying to get into smithing. One of the projects is an old Winchester model 37a single shot 20 gauge. I stripped everything down polished all metal and restained the wood. I love the look of the steel and the light wood. I was going to re blue the barrel and receiver but I like the look of the bare metal. What is the best way to seal the metal after ti is polished.

 

[guntech]

A clear spray finish but it is not very durable.. but then it is easy to touch up...

 

[TrevorMack]

Thanks appreciate it.

 

[skoal]

Clear coat can turn yellowish on a hot barrel I've had luck with renaissance wax.

 

[Shooter1of38]

Anyone ever try any of the automotive nano ceramic finishes?

cquartz and Modesto are two That are supposed to be quite good and durable (no maintenance for years even when left in the elements).

 

[BCRider]

Just keep it properly oiled with any good gun oil same as you would a blued gun.

I've got unfinished steel tooling I made well over 20 years ago that lives in my shop and it still looks like it did when first finished simply because I oiled the steel and keep it that way.

 

[rgwhitman]

A silicone oil will work quite well. Bare bone the metal first with a degreaser. Then warm the steel to a baby bottle warm and apply the silocone oil. Let set for a few hours and then buff off the excess. This is a process that was used with 'Jenolite" cold blue which was one of the best cold bluesa on the market.

 

[silverfoxdj]

Clear coat can turn yellowish on a hot barrel I've had luck with renaissance wax.

This is great stuff but I never knew it would work on hot barrels..

 

[icehunter121]

Any of my bare steel parts are rubbed with Autosol polish then a wiping with G96. Havent seen any rust in over 30 years.

 

[skoal]

Op I think as long as you have something on there it'll help prevent rust.

 

[kamlooky]

Gun wax?
I just use oil.
But this Fluid Film has captured me interest.
Stinks like chit, but does wonders to the wood too.

 

[maple leaf]

On antiques I have used Flitz polish paste that has the ability to Clean, Polish, Deoxidize and Protect. I then oil the firearm with Fluid Film. Cheers

 

[dfrombc]

Armacoat does make a clear coat that would fit the bill. Can't say I've used it but I've had good luck with their products in the past.

 

[Rod B]

Any of my bare steel parts are rubbed with Autosol polish then a wiping with G96. Havent seen any rust in over 30 years.

Autosol is a great product.

 

[BCRider]

Autosol will give it a lovely glossy chrome like shine with enough work but it won't protect the steel from rusting very well. As mentioned don't skip the oil. Treat any raw steel just like you do a blued steel finish.

 

[The Kurgan]

I have had pretty good success with plain old-fashioned lacquer. The nice part about lacquer is that it's dead easy to strip (acetone) and re-spray.
Lacquer is pretty durable.

 

[bearhunter]

Autosol is a great product.

OP, it's actually quite durable for your purposes but beware, it contains free silicone which will make the metal very difficult to blue later.

 

[Candocad]

Another note on silicone oils is that it can be a problem for metal on metal wear. I have found that one out first hand.

Candocad.

 

[FALover]

A good quality paste wax works well. Oil will always head down due to gravity. Grease is good but messy. Wax sticks and can be reapplied at any time. Good enough for museum pieces.

ps. I use Howard brand 'Citrus-Sheild' from Home Hardware.