Searching for scope rail
- Thread starter SPACEFORCE
- Start date
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Weaver, among others, make them - usually can find them at Canadian Tire or Amazon.ca. Likely you are looking for a "full length scope mount base" - not sure about the Picatinny part, though - I think Weaver bases will accept Picatinny rings - will not be as many slots though - most of which you will never use. To be 0 MOA, it needs both ends the same thickness - if they are 4 inches long, and "flat" on both the top and bottom, than the front end will be circa 0.022 inches thinner than the rear, to be a 20 MOA rail - if 1" is 1 MOA at 100 yards (it is not, precisely, but close enough for most people). Pairs of rings are normally identical height - with a very few exceptions (Ruger 77 centre fire, for example).
So I may be asking the wrong question bare with me...
I want to put a tacsol barrel with a ruger factory 22 receiver and to place a red dot onto the receiver so do I need a different rail from the factory one? I'm getting confused I think with Picatinny/ weaver.
I added a 20 MOA rail to try out a scope which works with the factory receiver and barrel to give me enough eye relief but the rail is too long to insert the Tacsol Barrel due to the integral sights on the barrel.
I want to put a tacsol barrel with a ruger factory 22 receiver and to place a red dot onto the receiver so do I need a different rail from the factory one? I'm getting confused I think with Picatinny/ weaver.
I added a 20 MOA rail to try out a scope which works with the factory receiver and barrel to give me enough eye relief but the rail is too long to insert the Tacsol Barrel due to the integral sights on the barrel.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
A "picatinny" rail was named for a NATO specification - how far apart the ridges are - how tall / deep they are - how wide the grooves are - is typical that a Picatinny rail will allow multiple placements of the scope on the rifle without undoing the rings, or the use of multiple scopes on several rifles, each with a picatinny rail. A Weaver base typically has only a couple of slots - not exactly the same size as picatinny specs - but either will work with either - Weaver style rings will fit onto Picatinny rails - NATO spec style rings will fit onto Weaver bases - is a good practice to always push your optic "forward" against the recoil lug when snugging up the clamping screws that hold the rings to the base. It appears as if the optic moves forward under recoil - in fact, it stays still - it is the rife that moves rearward under the scope - giving the appearance that the optic went forward. "Recoil" is very nearly a non-issue for .22 Long Rifle cartridge
My Ruger 10-22 was bought new, by me, in the late 1970's - for years and years it had the factory (?) scope base on it - it no longer does - I have a Williams rear aperture sight on it - that uses the rear most two holes to mount to that receiver sight. I do not think that I still have the original base - I do not recall if it even had ANY recoil slots in it - it might have relied ONLY on the clamping force of the rings - might be that my memory might be failing on that.
There was an "old school" trick - for scope mount bases that did not have a suitable recoil lug where you wanted one - you can drill and tap and insert a screw into the base to act like a "stop" to prevent the scope from moving forward - or to replace it to same place every time, if relying only on the clamping force of the rings.
My Ruger 10-22 was bought new, by me, in the late 1970's - for years and years it had the factory (?) scope base on it - it no longer does - I have a Williams rear aperture sight on it - that uses the rear most two holes to mount to that receiver sight. I do not think that I still have the original base - I do not recall if it even had ANY recoil slots in it - it might have relied ONLY on the clamping force of the rings - might be that my memory might be failing on that.
There was an "old school" trick - for scope mount bases that did not have a suitable recoil lug where you wanted one - you can drill and tap and insert a screw into the base to act like a "stop" to prevent the scope from moving forward - or to replace it to same place every time, if relying only on the clamping force of the rings.
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- Location
- Western Manitoba
Re-reading your post #4 - if you are satisfied with the "rail" that you installed, and are not using the excess forward protrusion that is interfering with the sights on that barrel - simply hack saw that off - is likely just made from aluminum - will be easy to saw with a hacksaw or a carbide tipped "chop saw" - the cut area will be shiny silver coloured - likely you can colour it up "close enough" with a black Jiffy Marker or similar. If you are using the protrusion to mount your optic, you are going to have issues - you might want to remove the rear sight from that barrel to give some clearance?
Ok I think that's going to be the best option, the scope isn't mounted past the receiver.
If I cut that small section off at the end of the receiver that'll allow me to keep the rear sight until can source a piece of rail with the center clear to use iron sights if needed.
Appreciate the info I'll add an update once I have it set up.
If you want to continue using the sights with a rail on the receiver you may want to look into the older style williams 10/22 firesights. I had a set with a high front sight and wedge type rear sight and could see over the rail quite well.
Unfortunately I dont have the rail installed but you can see how high the sights are
Unfortunately I dont have the rail installed but you can see how high the sights are
