Second thoughts on krylon

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BRvalley

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I've delayed painting my vanguard flamer stock as I've heard some questionable feedback on it's durability, easily chipping and flaking, but with paint prep work is everything

for guys that have used krylon, how durable have you found it?

I've also never owned a hydro dipped stock before, except for this vanguard, which I stripped before actually using in the field...I'd assume hydro dipping is a little more durable than krylon, but just a guess there

any real world experience to offer here?
 
Are we talking normal krylon or the poly bond stuff?
There is a plastic specific paint available. Made by rustolem or tremclad
 
Done it on a 22LR it held good
Done in on my 10TR stock... Chipped

Same prep with a generous amount of clear coat.

For me its hit&miss
 
Depends on what you want.
If you want some Gucci paint job get it professionally cerakoted or something simalir.
If you're like me, and don't give a rats ass what it looks like after some heavy use, then krylon or aervoe it. Any spray paint will wear, chip, or flake off.
 
If you read the information krylon is designed to stick to plastic type materials which fibreglass isn't. The prep is interesting just clean it with an ammonia based product (windex) and no need to sand. I haven't done a stock but I've done trail cameras which were left out all year and its held up well.
 
It's a rattle can paint job!
But, if your looking to spend more time on it there was a lengthy thread from November when WSS was blowing them out for 499.00
Someone even prepped one and clear coated it too with great results from all the praises that where posted to.
But, again it is a rattle can paint job.
Rob
 
wbaad said:
Are we talking normal krylon or the poly bond stuff?
There is a plastic specific paint available. Made by rustolem or tremclad
Click to expand...

Krylon Fusion is made to bond chemically to plastics. The matte camouflage Krylon is made with the Fusion chemistry.

I've used it on several plastic stocks. It does wear eventually. Everything does, some things last longer. I find it easy to touch up the spots that show wear. The one I overcoated with their clear satin (satin was the lowest sheen I could find) isn't showing any wear yet.
 
I did a stock. I didn't find it to chip easy. It wore in a couple spots, easy to touch up. Any spilled bore solvent will strip the paint quite fast. It's good if you want the paint job to just be practical and don't mind it wearing in spots then touching it up. If you need it to look pretty too get it Cerakote or a similar professional job.
 
I have used one of the expensive poly-blend type finishes that you have to get mailed ordered to you and was incredibly unimpressed with it, after significant cost and work. I won't use names.

Since then I have done several firearms with spray paint, mostly the "camo" stuff.

If you do your part, I have found the spray paint to work quite well. They offer very good rust protection and moderate wear protection. They're cheap and fast.

Doing your part means (at least) a full cleaning and degreasing of everything to be painted, making sure your gun is warm (I use an old oven at 180 degrees F before painting and between coats) to absorb paint, and using at least four coats of paint and then four coats of clearcoat.

Done this way, I'd never look back at way more espensive spray on finishes.

And touch-ups can be sprayed rignt back over as needed. I did a leaf-patterned LE sporter that needed touch-ups after a season of use, just on the pistol grip, and you basically cannot tell. Took maybe half an hour.
 
I painted my AR with fusion last year. It's doing great for the most part, except that hoppes #9 eats it quick. I don't mind a little wear, and it can easily be touched up.
 
I use aervoe. Basically more and much better shades than krylon. Have done several different types of rifles .... metal and all (tape off what needs to be obviously).

Sure it wears and chips, gets glossier in certain areas from skin oils. Whatever. I look at all rifles as tools.

When the zombies come over the hill they ain't gonna care if my rifle is pretty :p

Maybe I should try some matte clear over it for better forest fashion.
 
Just did my tikka coyote rifle in Plastidip last night. I figure if it doesn't work out or I don't like it I can peel it back off. First test is today so I will see how it stands up. Lots of YouTube vids of guys painting wheels and whole cars so it must be able to take so abuse.
 
I've been thinking of trying plastidip on my glock. Easy to remove is a nice quality, however I've read that cleaning solvents turn it into a gooey mess.
 
Here's the wear from krylon fusion on my Magpul forend as a result of one seasons regular usage.
It can be touched up, but I couldn't really be bothered at this point.



 
I have done dozens of stocks with Krylon and it DOES NOT chip easily and it is VERY durable... "when" done properly.

The tricks to get a good finish are as follows;

1. Solvent wipe the stock to remove oil and residue.

2. Even though every source tells you that sanding is not required, do it anyway. A very quick light sanding with 320 grit Emery paper and then wipe away all dust.

3. Properly prop or hang the stock, so that you have room to spray multi-directionally.

4. Lightly warm the surface that is being painted... a heat gun or blow dryer is sufficient.

5. Spray MANY very light coats (I usually do 5 or 6 coats) with an hour between coats, even though the can says; "drys in 15 minutes."

6. Allow 24 hours of drying at room temperature after the final coat, and then do 3 or 4 thin coats with Krylon UV Clear Matte... which does not add gloss or sheen and keeps the finish homogenous... it allows for clean wiping and resists oils and solvents.


This may sound like a lot of work, but it is actually fairly quick and easy and not unduly onerous... The result is quite professional and durable.
 
I'll be using black webbing spray over flat olive, and matt clear coat....so my concern was if flaking is a big issue, touching up would be a pain to make it look good with the webbing

I was also second guessing because I found out there is a new place that dips stocks in Prince George, but I think I'll try the $25 krylon route before I do the $140 hydro dipping

hoytcanon, fully agree with all your steps, including the sanding

thanks for all the feedback
 
Problem I experienced with matte clear coat spray was any and all wear contact point became glossy and then eventually tacky. Just FYI.
 
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