Best to borrow someone elses chainsaw.
Seeking advice
- Thread starter jmichelin84
- Start date
Best to borrow someone elses chainsaw.
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
barry1974w
Regular
- Location
- Central B.C.
I’ve used a bunch of things over the years. But for the last 10 years or so I’ve been using a Buck folding saw. It’s similar to other folding pruning saws, but I prefer the lock on this one. It’s the only one I’ve ever seen, works great, nice and light in the pack.
^^^ He's right, you know.
Rayleigh_Scattering
Regular
- Location
- Under the arch
>hammer video
I’m happy to see someone pursuing their art. That looks like an early unit I made years ago.
I’ll suggest a few thoughts, and some of this is purely personal preference:
The center or percussion is too far from the CofG when swung. It’ll kick your hand when it hits. I keep the center of the cutting edge lower down.
The edge is to far away from the along-the-handle axis of rotation. Long blades are useful for throwing axes as they help fix the cross-handle axis of free rotation into something that will keep the edge facing outward, but for an swinging axe it means that a small rotational offset of your hand produces a big cross-deflection of the blade. I find that strong coupling introduces more error than I want to tolerate so I keep my edge much closer to the handle.
The edge is more curved than I like, but I can understand how it got that way. Alloy is not easy to shift with hand tools, even good ones. The tips wear faster, so I prefer to start off with a more square edge. My inability to shift alloy into shape is why I started with a claw hammer and welded on the blade.
The shiny finish is nice, but I’ve come to love the contrasting look of a burnt black oil finish on the body and bare metal at the edge. Yummy.
The shape of the head means you can’t get your hand into line with the cutting edge for force/control in detail work. I’ve gotten the best ergonomics out of a deeply bearded pattern. But you have to then extend the sleeve downward along the handle so that the Center of force of the joint has lots of metal around it. Doing a deeply bearded pattern with a skinny little wood interface loads the joint in rotation and it soon loosens. Although it looks ###y, and that sells, I suppose.
But hey, the guy had fun, built something cool, and learned a few things. Good on ‘im.
I’m happy to see someone pursuing their art. That looks like an early unit I made years ago.
I’ll suggest a few thoughts, and some of this is purely personal preference:
The center or percussion is too far from the CofG when swung. It’ll kick your hand when it hits. I keep the center of the cutting edge lower down.
The edge is to far away from the along-the-handle axis of rotation. Long blades are useful for throwing axes as they help fix the cross-handle axis of free rotation into something that will keep the edge facing outward, but for an swinging axe it means that a small rotational offset of your hand produces a big cross-deflection of the blade. I find that strong coupling introduces more error than I want to tolerate so I keep my edge much closer to the handle.
The edge is more curved than I like, but I can understand how it got that way. Alloy is not easy to shift with hand tools, even good ones. The tips wear faster, so I prefer to start off with a more square edge. My inability to shift alloy into shape is why I started with a claw hammer and welded on the blade.
The shiny finish is nice, but I’ve come to love the contrasting look of a burnt black oil finish on the body and bare metal at the edge. Yummy.
The shape of the head means you can’t get your hand into line with the cutting edge for force/control in detail work. I’ve gotten the best ergonomics out of a deeply bearded pattern. But you have to then extend the sleeve downward along the handle so that the Center of force of the joint has lots of metal around it. Doing a deeply bearded pattern with a skinny little wood interface loads the joint in rotation and it soon loosens. Although it looks ###y, and that sells, I suppose.
But hey, the guy had fun, built something cool, and learned a few things. Good on ‘im.
I don't like the idea of hitting the pelvic bone with a hatchet or axe. The bladder is right there.....you really don't want to risk puncturing the bladder....
I carry a small folding saber saw.
Use it for clearing shooting lanes as well.
I carry a small folding saber saw.
Use it for clearing shooting lanes as well.
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Glad to hear a critical report on the man's creation. It has far too many showy elements for my tastes. But he made it, not me. I have used many conventional hatchets and axes, so one with the blade close to the handle would feel different. I like the idea of one comment made here about an axe made from a heavy hammer head and a piece of leaf spring. Still waiting to see images of that one ..... hmmmm?
Rayleigh_Scattering
Regular
- Location
- Under the arch
Imgur is responding, so here are pics.
With cover and the ratty old file I use for sharpening:
The file handle is a stick with a wire-tie tool collar. Ghetto!
Held in the hand:
The blade lines up with the hand for push-cutting. Balancing point is the bottom of the overstrike.
The edge geometry is narrow. No wedge, no secondary. Here it is edge-on:
It’s a short, heavy, sharp knife with a long offset handle.
And what I started from:
The reason I started with these is that the “overstrike protection” feature allowed me to use a deep beard pattern and still have handle support. And it was on sale, cheap. I cut the claw off, cut the knob off, and ground chamfers on the knob stub. Sadly Lowes no longer carries them, and they are rare on eBay.
The blade is a slice of leaf spring, pounded sharp on one side, and welded on to the knob stub. Then I angle grinder cut the base of the blade away to make clearance for the hand. Lots of grind/weld cycles on the joint because I’m a hack, but wanted a smooth full-seam joint.
The blade has a narrow primary grind, no secondary, and tests out in the high 50s RHC. I was aiming for a bit higher but had to repeat the hardening, which I think carbon depleted the edge due to my poor atmosphere control.
With one hand on the poll and another on the handle edge control is excellent.
It’s a bit light for cutting, but that’s a deliberate trade-off as you have to carry it all the time but only use it sometimes. Total weight is 650g, with another dozen grams for the leather cover.
This is the third iteration of the pattern, and I’m pleased with it.
With cover and the ratty old file I use for sharpening:
The file handle is a stick with a wire-tie tool collar. Ghetto!
Held in the hand:
The blade lines up with the hand for push-cutting. Balancing point is the bottom of the overstrike.
The edge geometry is narrow. No wedge, no secondary. Here it is edge-on:
It’s a short, heavy, sharp knife with a long offset handle.
And what I started from:
The reason I started with these is that the “overstrike protection” feature allowed me to use a deep beard pattern and still have handle support. And it was on sale, cheap. I cut the claw off, cut the knob off, and ground chamfers on the knob stub. Sadly Lowes no longer carries them, and they are rare on eBay.
The blade is a slice of leaf spring, pounded sharp on one side, and welded on to the knob stub. Then I angle grinder cut the base of the blade away to make clearance for the hand. Lots of grind/weld cycles on the joint because I’m a hack, but wanted a smooth full-seam joint.
The blade has a narrow primary grind, no secondary, and tests out in the high 50s RHC. I was aiming for a bit higher but had to repeat the hardening, which I think carbon depleted the edge due to my poor atmosphere control.
With one hand on the poll and another on the handle edge control is excellent.
It’s a bit light for cutting, but that’s a deliberate trade-off as you have to carry it all the time but only use it sometimes. Total weight is 650g, with another dozen grams for the leather cover.
This is the third iteration of the pattern, and I’m pleased with it.
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My experience with this strategy started with deer. The brisket is almost useless to try and salvage hamburger meat as it is mostly fat, bone and gristle.
The answer is in a slow cook for 10-12 hours. Even a deer brisket is too long and I split it in half so one half nestles inside the other.
The brisket from a big deer will feed four but would really like to do a moose before my Best Before Date and Expiry Date coincide.
I think I've done it all. From powersaw to using a old knife and a 1.7/8" trailer ball to split moose. The last 15 years I've been using a $10 8" folding pruning saw I picked up at home hardware. A old guide frend laughed when I pulled it out, not laughing when we were finished.
elimsprint
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kelowna, BC
Imgur is responding, so here are pics.
With cover and the ratty old file I use for sharpening:
The file handle is a stick with a wire-tie tool collar. Ghetto!
Held in the hand:
The blade lines up with the hand for push-cutting. Balancing point is the bottom of the overstrike.
The edge geometry is narrow. No wedge, no secondary. Here it is edge-on:
It’s a short, heavy, sharp knife with a long offset handle.
And what I started from:
The reason I started with these is that the “overstrike protection” feature allowed me to use a deep beard pattern and still have handle support. And it was on sale, cheap. I cut the claw off, cut the knob off, and ground chamfers on the knob stub. Sadly Lowes no longer carries them, and they are rare on eBay.
The blade is a slice of leaf spring, pounded sharp on one side, and welded on to the knob stub. Then I angle grinder cut the base of the blade away to make clearance for the hand. Lots of grind/weld cycles on the joint because I’m a hack, but wanted a smooth full-seam joint.
The blade has a narrow primary grind, no secondary, and tests out in the high 50s RHC. I was aiming for a bit higher but had to repeat the hardening, which I think carbon depleted the edge due to my poor atmosphere control.
With one hand on the poll and another on the handle edge control is excellent.
It’s a bit light for cutting, but that’s a deliberate trade-off as you have to carry it all the time but only use it sometimes. Total weight is 650g, with another dozen grams for the leather cover.
This is the third iteration of the pattern, and I’m pleased with it.
Very nice, I like the design, thanks for the pics!
Suka
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Breastplate is tough. I use a hatchet. Sharp one. Quicker and easier than you'd think.
Rayleigh_Scattering
Regular
- Location
- Under the arch
I see that Vaughan is making Douglas pattern hammers again.
That could be a lovely solution to the handle problem. I could unbolt the head and trim down the face and claw as before. Sandblast the paint (and foreign flag) off. Welding would be an easy flat-on-flat butt joint. Then flare the edge, trim to silhouette, and pass them to a helpful fellow I know who rocks a big belt sander.
Actually, now that the handle no longer protrudes laterally he could actually shape the whole edge profile, and I wouldn't have to forge them at all other than to take the curve out of them. Take a bit more steel, but an off-hours stop at JB Power's metal bin will yield any amount of that. Just heat to transition after rough grinding and into the oil can, a quick pass with the flap disc to hone and expose the edge, and bolt the (hot waxed) handle back on.
At $75/per it'll be a while before any of those fit into my hobby budget, but if would be fun to try with one of their 18Oz chassis. Even the handle pattern isn't bad. Not doe's foot good, but it's got some curve to it.
That could be a lovely solution to the handle problem. I could unbolt the head and trim down the face and claw as before. Sandblast the paint (and foreign flag) off. Welding would be an easy flat-on-flat butt joint. Then flare the edge, trim to silhouette, and pass them to a helpful fellow I know who rocks a big belt sander.
Actually, now that the handle no longer protrudes laterally he could actually shape the whole edge profile, and I wouldn't have to forge them at all other than to take the curve out of them. Take a bit more steel, but an off-hours stop at JB Power's metal bin will yield any amount of that. Just heat to transition after rough grinding and into the oil can, a quick pass with the flap disc to hone and expose the edge, and bolt the (hot waxed) handle back on.
At $75/per it'll be a while before any of those fit into my hobby budget, but if would be fun to try with one of their 18Oz chassis. Even the handle pattern isn't bad. Not doe's foot good, but it's got some curve to it.
jmichelin84
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Big Land, nL
Thanks all I have a 18 inch mastercraft hand saw and I have a small boys hatchet I hope that will work out well enough for me, might have to go in November when we got a bit of snow though lol
