Seized SKS firing pin retainer pin
- Thread starter zygtac
- Start date
Maybe submerse the whole bolt in Liquid Wrench for a few days ? Then when you try to punch it out, support the bolt directly on a vise-anvil part with just enuf clearance to come out. Maybe start with a Med hammer and 'small-sharp' strikes ? If this doesn't work, perhaps adding some heat from a propane torch after the soak ? Don't 'Over-heat' and remove the temper.
These are guesses cause I haven't had a seized pin like this, but have had seized parts on my mcycle tranny and TR6 also.
These are guesses cause I haven't had a seized pin like this, but have had seized parts on my mcycle tranny and TR6 also.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
Some of them can be tight or full of old hard cosmoline, usually you need a big hammer and a propped sized punch to drive it out. A gunsmith block or a bench vise will help as well, I would try boiling it in a small pot to try and get any dirt or old grease out of the internals. Then some spray lube before I grabbed the BFH, the punch in the cleaning kit is useless if it’s stuck or tight.
So far I have hammered the hell out of it with the included punch and a another punch I have. This is after i submerged it in PB blaster, wiping it, and heating it up with a heat gun. This seemed to have gotten the cosmoline out since the firing pin rattles loose now. The bad news is the retainer pin still isnt budging. WD40 had no effect either. At this point im considering taking it to a gunsmith.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
Put it in a padded vise and hit it with a 4lb sledge and a real punch.
Use a real punch, not the tools from the cleaning kit
If you have cleaned it good enough so the firing pin rattles back and forth easily i wouldn't worry about it and go shoot it
They can be stubborn to get out but I don't think they need to be removed for every cleaning, like was said above boil it in water to clean it and if you shoot corrosive through it boil it again to clean it, then oil afterwards
They can be stubborn to get out but I don't think they need to be removed for every cleaning, like was said above boil it in water to clean it and if you shoot corrosive through it boil it again to clean it, then oil afterwards
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
Try a larger taper point punch to get it started moving, then switch to the appropriate diameter steel punch, use a big ball peen hammer or small sledge. If you can put it in a bench vice you will get no movement in the firing pin block and all the force/impact will go to the retaining pin. The bigger punch is easier to hold and hit hard, the taper point will move it enough till the point bottoms out in the hole.
I’ve had one that was especially tight, they are arsenal refurbs so they pull them apart and throw each type of part in a bin. The original part that probably fit properly is no longer part of the equation. Some are super tight, some are easier to remove. Heating the body of the firing pin block should help but you’ll likely need a propane torch and not a heat gun.
