Shadow-Shadow Line difference and which grips

Since it's already bought here is my personnal opinion fwiw. Been running a shadow 13k rounds now just bought a 2nd arriving soon.

Aluma grips help you hit mag catch button easier, rubber grips are impossible to regrip if draw is screwed. I fill my weak hand grip pannel with skate tape, value added.
Tanfoglio mags work way better than my CZ mags, they drop real quick too. You may want to releive clearance off your ejector if using tans as they hit on the ejector when you slam them in.
Seratted trigger is real cheap at CZ customs, gives me great finger grip on my double.
I used to hate the mini paddle safeties (shadow standard), but if used with caution, i find it helps supports recoil when shooting 1 handed (especially weak). To be used with caution as they can get you nose diving.
As for the rest (springs #'s and sights) i cannot comment as i got a regular shadow...
 
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redddogg69 said:
If it's the metal guide rod, the spring is usually tight on it. Just pull it off it will come without harming it.
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Thanks.. I'll give it a bit of "lovin'"... Pulled the trigger on a production-legal Shadow in DA that had springs done and the difference was night and day, so I figured I might as well do both while I'm at it.
 
Ughhhh I barely got it to move 1/4" without applying force in levels that are too much even for the SKS... How hard do you have to pull on that? It's well lubed with light oil, so it shouldn't have any major friction issues.

Edit: I decided to go beyond SKS level of force... Used a quarter to get the coils down another 1/4" and then a hard yank with a twist got her off... Once again, thanks RD. This was crazy, kept everything well lubed so it's not like it was supposed to bind or anything like that, just uber-tight. Didn't think I'd ever need to apply this much force while working on such a small mechanical system. Mainspring's next but that'll most likely come tomorrow. Off to the range now to shoot my long guns :)
 
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On a side-note, just found my scale and it's only marked to 8lbs but I'd estimate that the marker stops about 3 above that, so around 11ish on DA and 3.5 on the dot for SA. Will post up the results when I change the mainspring.
 
The flat spring in the grip was really tight on mine when I did my mainspring, so don't be surprised if that gives you a fight too. I just did a 15lb recoil and a 13lb main and added the extended firing pin to mine.
 
redddogg69 said:
The flat spring in the grip was really tight on mine when I did my mainspring, so don't be surprised if that gives you a fight too. I just did a 15lb recoil and a 13lb main and added the extended firing pin to mine.
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Somehow I had a feeling it wouldn't be as easy as on youtube :cool: Will find out after I clean up the rifles tomorrow. I'll look into getting one of those if I start getting light strikes.
 
TRaTSeRiF said:
Somehow I had a feeling it wouldn't be as easy as on youtube :cool: Will find out after I clean up the rifles tomorrow. I'll look into getting one of those if I start getting light strikes.
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The only vid I could find on youtube was of a 75b and the shadow is nothing like that when you get to doing it.
 
When I changed the mani spring on my shadow line sp01 I really had to fight it. Super tough but I used the same video. Works good
 
Best way to do it on the shadow that isn't in that video due to the fact the spring is retained differently on the shadow is to pull the pin at the top of the spring. Once that is out push the mainspring plug in slightly and rock the spring side to side till it comes out. The plug and mainspring can then be removed. Getting it back in is the real tough part.
 
how is getting the spring back in tough?? put in the spring, make sure the hammer is down, put plug on it, press it in, slide pin in to secure plug. Put the steel flat spring back in secure with pin. Easy.
Next question, why would you use an extended firing pin with a 13lb mainspring. you only need the extended if you shoot CCI with an 11lb or lighter mainspring. I run a factory firing pin in my steel gun with an 8.5lb mainspring with zero issues with Fed or Win primers.

As for which one to get, get the Shadowline, of if you can afford it, the Shadowmate,

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Slavex said:
how is getting the spring back in tough?? put in the spring, make sure the hammer is down, put plug on it, press it in, slide pin in to secure plug. Put the steel flat spring back in secure with pin. Easy.
Next question, why would you use an extended firing pin with a 13lb mainspring. you only need the extended if you shoot CCI with an 11lb or lighter mainspring. I run a factory firing pin in my steel gun with an 8.5lb mainspring with zero issues with Fed or Win primers.

As for which one to get, get the Shadowline, of if you can afford it, the Shadowmate,

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I reload with CCI at the moment and didn't want the hassle of light strikes (the CCI cause this in my M&P as is). And the slot that that spring fits into to engage the mainspring plug on mine was tight as tight can be to fit that spring (even with the plug out it did not fit in that slot nicely) may be different on others pistols, that was just my experience with it.
 
Ok, got the springs done, on SA, no difference in force, but DA went from 11lbs to about 8.5lbs, noticeably lighter. Just took off both pins. The taking both pins out made the job a lot easier.
 
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pavmentsurfer said:
FWIW... the thin shaped safety sucks. I bought just the left side safety from the regular shadow model and its WAY better. Why anyone would want a THINNER safety for a competition gun is beyond me.
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I totally agree! Would you mind sharing where you bought that regular Shadow safety?
And also, did you have a gunsmith do that, or replace it yourself? If it's the latter, how complicated / cumbersome is this process?
 
I can't imagine why, you'd have to ask some top level competitors I guess...

pavmentsurfer said:
FWIW... the thin shaped safety sucks. I bought just the left side safety from the regular shadow model and its WAY better. Why anyone would want a THINNER safety for a competition gun is beyond me.
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