Shorten shotgun stock with basic skills

Arcosdad

Arcosdad

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Comox Valley,Vancouver Island.
Hello all,
I have my eye on an old euro double that I'm going to turn into a coach gun. The stock is nearly 15" lop and I'm thinking of lopping off 1.5 inches and adding a limbsaver. I've chopped off barrels before, no problem but have not cut stocks. I have basic woodworking stuff like chop saw, skil saw, jig saw, hand tools, access to table saw. I haven't worked much with hardwood before. What is the best tool and blade choice to do such a cut? What do I have to be aware of? (Other than measure twice, cut once!). It's a $200 gun so not worried about creating a collector piece but want it to look decent at least.
Any input is appreciated!

Thx,A/D
 
Based on your calculations, your finished LOP will be 14.5" [15-1.5+1] Is this what you want [presuming you are using a 1" Limbsaver recoil pad]?
Remember that you have to use wedges under your butt-stock to ensure the cut is square, unless you are comfortable figuring out cast-off or cast-on.
Wrap the stock with tape [to prevents chips / splits] & use a very sharp carbide-tip blade, preferably on a sliding compound mitre saw.
 
Arcosdad said:
Hello all,
I have my eye on an old euro double that I'm going to turn into a coach gun. The stock is nearly 15" lop and I'm thinking of lopping off 1.5 inches and adding a limbsaver. I've chopped off barrels before, no problem but have not cut stocks. I have basic woodworking stuff like chop saw, skil saw, jig saw, hand tools, access to table saw. I haven't worked much with hardwood before. What is the best tool and blade choice to do such a cut? What do I have to be aware of? (Other than measure twice, cut once!). It's a $200 gun so not worried about creating a collector piece but want it to look decent at least.
Any input is appreciated!

Thx,A/D
Click to expand...

I remember doing my first stock. Same deal - inexpensive gun. If you take your time and really set your angles up right, it's not a super difficult or complicated job.

you want a really sharp and fine-toothed saw blade - I've used table saws with a sled, but a good band saw is better. Tape everything really good to avoid splintering. Then, you'll want to make or borrow a jig for grinding your recoil pad. Pay really close attention to the angles, especially at the toe or it will end up looking pretty "bubba."

You can also get plastic or brass butt plates that will look better and are way easier to work with. Again, watch the angles so that it follows the lines of the stock.

Did I mention to be careful about the angles?

Good luck and have fun!
 
^ a very "on point" mention about fitting the recoil pad - I was all worked up about making the cut in the wood - no splinters, no chunks broken out - did not see the issues coming with fitting the recoil pad though - to an extent, is a bit easier to get correct fit by re-finishing the gun stock at the same time that the pad is fitted, but really hard to come back from a split or broken out piece from the stock. Generally, in "classic" design, you want the toe and heel of the pad to "flow" along the same lines as the stock - I do see some "military" or "modern" things that are closer to 90 degree corners at the toe and heel of the butt plate, though.

And, I hope that you picked a "flat" recoil pad for your first attempt - you get to earn the grey hair like I have, when trying to spot in a curved butt plate to a stock.
 
I made a simple pad grinding jig to use on a belt sander or disk sander so that all the grinding is done off the stock preventing the oh $h!+ moment when you gouge the stock.
 
I use electrical tape stretched tight! Cuts clean and prevents splintering. Comes in white also. Don’t think you can hold it still while cutting. Have the stock plum/square and clamped against the fence and down. Cut will take seconds with a fine toothed carbide blade. Set up will take considerably longer but well worth the effort. Good luck
 
How'd it go OP?

Eventually I'll get around to shortening a rifle stock for my wife. She's 5 foot 2 and half. She says the half is important.
 
Arcosdad said:
Hello all,
I have my eye on an old euro double that I'm going to turn into a coach gun. The stock is nearly 15" lop and I'm thinking of lopping off 1.5 inches and adding a limbsaver. I've chopped off barrels before, no problem but have not cut stocks. I have basic woodworking stuff like chop saw, skil saw, jig saw, hand tools, access to table saw. I haven't worked much with hardwood before. What is the best tool and blade choice to do such a cut? What do I have to be aware of? (Other than measure twice, cut once!). It's a $200 gun so not worried about creating a collector piece but want it to look decent at least.
Any input is appreciated!

Thx,A/D
Click to expand...
A blade with very fine teeth and a narrow kerf - a Japanese hand saw fits the bill (A Dozuki type) less tool marks than any power tool. A scraper will make quick work of any marks in the end grain. Marking your cut line with a marking gauge and cutting to it will eliminate any chipping.

my second choice would be a bandsaw/sled/jig

image
 
Thin kerf blade with a minimum of 60 teeth. Like was previously mentioned...several wraps of painters tape ...your cut line shows up good on the tape. put your stock(receiver still attached) on a pc of towel/rag, against your mitre saw's fence....raise up the guard on your blade and slide the stock to the blade....lay the butt end flat on the blade to see how much your toe angle is out...if any ! Sometimes, some gun stocks line up perfectly square to the blade.
 
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