Shortening Barrel, reattaching bead or fiber optic?

Arcosdad

Arcosdad

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Comox Valley,Vancouver Island.
Hello all,
To take out some of my frustrations over the current gun politics I'm going to saw off a few more shotguns starting with a Baikal single and an old pump, to make truck/SHTF guns. I don't have drill/ tap tools or expertise to reinstall original beads and don't care for the big plastic snap-on TruGlos. What other solutions would you suggest? (We have all the basic metal working tools.) I was thinking of just gluing on a small F/O strip but there must be a cooler idea out there.

Also I'm in the market for another old Stevens, Win or CIL pump or double for more cutting. Gotta be cheap. Dey don't gotta be purdy!

Pictures show after cutting on the right, after recrown/finishing on the left. I really enjoy the hand finishing of the muzzle.

Thx, A/D
 

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simple to drill and tap a hole for threaded beads, I had a bunch in brass, aluminum, and you can also get little fiber optic ones not much bigger then a standard bead, thou I never used any myself.
If you are making truck guns, I would be using the beads, as the zombies are worse at night I believe, so they may work better.
But I prefer 20mm myself.
If you want to refinish, and did not want to drill, solder and a bit of brass would work if you are use to soldering, have to scrap a little blue off where you solder.
The trick is centering the hole on top dead center.
Easy way is to mark the center line before you cut the barrel, using the factory sight for reference.
 
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looks good
aftermarket beads come in 3/56 or 6/48
those are both gunsmithing thread sizes as you mentioned buying those taps is not easy you could source them from the usa
you will also need a number 31 drill bit for the 6/48
and off the top i forget the 3/56 number
other than drilling and tapping not sure how you would attach a bead
 
Bruh put some oil on your sawzall blade.

The double barrels are tricker but a barrel clamp mount and cheap red dot might work on the single barrel.
 
You can glue one on with Loctite 380.I have used it on ribs and they have never moved again ,better than solder .Now you have to be fairly quick or it stays where it is.
 
The gap left when the double barrels have been chopped can be filled with JB Weld. Sand smooth and flush. Can be reinforced with fine steel wool from which all traces of oil have been removed.
No big deal to drill and tap for a bead or other sight. Easier to center on a double's rib than on the top of a round barrel.
 
tiriaq said:
The gap left when the double barrels have been chopped can be filled with JB Weld. Sand smooth and flush. Can be reinforced with fine steel wool from which all traces of oil have been removed.
No big deal to drill and tap for a bead or other sight. Easier to center on a double's rib than on the top of a round barrel.
Click to expand...
Yah, the doubles are easy actually. I did exactly as you suggested with the one in the picture with the gap. It looked factory finished when I was done. For the bead I just drilled a small hole in the rib and used a little welding hammer to tap the original bead into place with some JB weld to hold it.
 
Arcosdad said:
Hacksaw takes forever. I'm using a chop saw with an abrasive wheel. Takes under two minutes. Yes, it generates some slag! We have a polishing wheel to help with the finishing. I've got lots of time to kill! šŸ˜œ
Click to expand...
Different strokesā€¦
A steady hand with a hacksaw and 5 minutes with a file would make a nice clean square muzzle.
Post a pic of the final result, curious to see how it cleans up.
 
misterplinker1 said:
Different strokesā€¦
A steady hand with a hacksaw and 5 minutes with a file would make a nice clean square muzzle.
Post a pic of the final result, curious to see how it cleans up.
Click to expand...
See pictures above for the pictures of the final outcome, shots on the left. I've got a bit of arthritis in the right wrist but might try one with hacksaw just to see the difference. I can get a perfect 90 degrees with the chop saw.
 
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