Shotgun chamber polishing

Brutus

Brutus

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West of most places....and in Alberta
I have a minor issue with a single shot modern 10 gauge shotgun folks.

Upon firing the extractor only half a@@ extracts the empty fired shell.
I believe this is mostly due to the rough chamber, because one can feel the tooling marks with a bare finger.

Any advice on a polishing compound I can use manually??

cheers
 
Long Forcing Cone, and some flex hone

Edit: cut a llong forcing cone with appropriate reamer and polish with flex hone rods( the ones you Chuck in a drill) use the appropriate "Cutting" fluide
 
Some use steel wool wraped around a 12ga bore brush, some use a bore brush and some lapping compound. Both at medium speed in a drill.
This is just from reading about it online, I have a couple of 870's to do, one of which sticks badly if I let it get dry.
There is lots of good advice, "and bad" online about it.
cheers
 
If the hulls are actually sticking in the bore you may need more than just to smooth out the coarse surface marks. The trick to using the best solution though is still to see why it's sticking. So before I started the first thing I'd want to do is make sure the sides of the chamber are straight or, better yet, slightly larger in diameter at the mouth so the chamber is slightly tapered to a larger mouth.

The right tool for checking for this sort of thing is one of the old machinist's inside calipers. These are the ones that look like the circle drawing compass but with the ends turned out. You set them to the one size then move to the other area and feel for any changes. To do this you don't make them tight to the wall, you want to be able to easily play the tips back and forth a small amount. The amount of play at each position indicates if the diameter is changing or not.

A slight bulge in the middle area so that it is a little bigger than the mouth is certainly going to produce the problem you've got. And if the walls are rough it suggests that someone "polished" it already but did a bad job of it. If they removed too much in the middle and left the mouth a little small then that will certainly cause the issue you have. Keep in mind that we're only talking about small amounts here. Even a few thou worth in the wrong way will mess up your day.

If parts of the chamber need to be resized I'd be looking at using a flap sander or a small brake cylinder hone. The hone gives you more control but with some care the flap sander can do a nice job.

This is something you can make up yourself easily. It uses a short length of 3/8 steel round bar with a slot cut into the end. Or for this case a length of 1/2 inch dowel will also work fine. Two 4 inch long strips of 1 inch wide emery cloth strip are put back to back and slid into the slot. To use it wind the strips up and insert then spin the drill at top speed. The flaps fly out and sand or polish, depending on your grit choice. I prefer this to some other methods suggested in this thread because the cloth has at least some stiffness to it so it hogs off the peaks while bridging over any hollows. So it removes the stuff that should be removed but leaves the low spots alone.
 
When I had an old rough single shot, I used a mechanics brake cylinder hone. Worked great for me
 
Is it an H&R? I have heard of this problem a few times before. I have a cut down Stevens 10g that flings the hulls 6-10 feet behind me. That's the kind of extraction I'd expect.
 
I got a buddy who owns a mechanics shop amd we just ordered it from Lordco (big Auto Parts retailer in BC)
 
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