I want to get a Sig P226R DAK in .40 S&W. I know that the advantage to the DAK is the lighter trigger pull so you can get your first shot off quicker. This maybe a stupid question but why is there no hammer, well not no hammer well only that nub in the back. Can anyone see a "big" disadvatage to this feature. Just tryin to do my homework before I get one. Any input will help thanks.
Sig P226 DAK
- Thread starter Stretch77
- Start date
There is no need for a conventional hammer as the gun is double action only and cannot be cocked. THe disadvantage would be that you cannot shoot the gun single action at all. DA only, albiet a light DA trigger pull. But DA only just the same.
Stretch77 said:
Stretch77, you won't be disapointed, cumon, it's a Sig!
I have one and the reason I do is because I'm becoming a fan
of pistols with consistant and identical trigger pulls. I find it
easier to trian with, only having to become used to one pull,
all the time instead of two. Another personal preference thing.
But just like my regular 226(sold), my DAK is the most accurate
handgun I own, no question.
I put a lighter main spring and short trigger in mine and that made
a pretty good trigger system even better.
And no external safties to worry about. Pull it out, shoot, put it away.
...WW
I was questioning the DAK until I took the SIG Armorer's course recently...I will be getting one with the DAK when I have the cash...you will not be disappointed.
Interesting thing though. There is a resent about 1/2 way out on the trigger release...when you pull the trigger from the 1/2 way resent it is slightly heavier than if you fully reset the trigger (let it all the way out).
So basically, it has an amazing DAO trigger pull, butif you chose to shoot the 1/2 reset it is heavier.
Once you have mastered it you probably won't notice a difference though.
Fit and finish is way up there.
Boltgun
Interesting thing though. There is a resent about 1/2 way out on the trigger release...when you pull the trigger from the 1/2 way resent it is slightly heavier than if you fully reset the trigger (let it all the way out).
So basically, it has an amazing DAO trigger pull, butif you chose to shoot the 1/2 reset it is heavier.
Once you have mastered it you probably won't notice a difference though.
Fit and finish is way up there.
Boltgun
Boltgun said:
Yes Boltgun, that was one of the first things I noticed.
I thought it was just me.
My question to you if you know and having taken the
armorer's course is; why?
Was it designed like that for a reason or that's just the way it turned out ?
...WW
I really like the SIG P226 HSP DAK.
It goes for a little more than the regular DAK but It would match nicely that challenge coin I was given recently... it doesn't exactly says DHS onit but it close enough.And being a limited edition I'll keep it for the rest of my life without a doubt. I would have preferred a 229 but that would complicate things a bit.
It goes for a little more than the regular DAK but It would match nicely that challenge coin I was given recently... it doesn't exactly says DHS onit but it close enough.And being a limited edition I'll keep it for the rest of my life without a doubt. I would have preferred a 229 but that would complicate things a bit.
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This sounds like good advice to me. The SIG catalog lists the pull on the P226R SA/DA as 4.4/10 lbs. For the P226R DAK it is 6.5 lbs. So the SA is the lightest of the bunch.IM_Lugger said:I'd get SA/DA;
it's only the first shot that will be ligher (SA trigger pull of a SA/DA is lighter than DAK trigger) plus if you rack the slide (to load the gun) the trigger will always be in SA
From what I understand, the DAK trigger was developed for law enforcement. All LE carry a round in the chamber, but not a round in the chamber with the gun cocked in SA. You might try that with a USP (with the safety on), but with a SIG you are going to have people shooting themselves in the leg. So departments that carried SA/DA guns (like SIGs and Berettas, for example) put their oficers in the position of having that dreaded long, hard (and often times way off the mark) first shot in DA, with subsequent shots in SA. So you have the double problem of a long DA pull followed up by a totally different SA pull.
So, the DAK trigger takes the benefits (reliability, accuracy) of the P226 pistol and makes it more effective for law enforcement purposes by making it simpler - no de-cocker, bobbed hammer, same trigger pull on every shot, and can be carried safely without a 10 pound pull on the first shot.
The guys that like the DAK are people that are training for carry purposes, or other self defence application, or guys that already have lots of time on SA/DA guns and want to try something different. Both the DAK and the LEM (Law Enforcement Modification) for USP pistols are both highly regarded as being very smooth DAO triggers, and many people seem to find them to be far superior to Glock triggers.
My 2 cents worth, if you are a new-ish shooter wanting to build up your accuracy on stationary targets - go for SA/DA all the way. If you are carrying your gun around Utah, or you are practising for the next Huricane Katrina, have some other reason for needing a gun with a round in the chamber, or if you are just wanting to try something different - go for the DAK.
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Ix,
The short trigger is a viable option for me cause,
my hands are on the small side. Gripping the gun
is no problem(a Glock 21 still feels 'alrite..') it's the
extended trigger reach that I had to get rid of.
I can't shoot a Beretta with out break'n my grip on
the first pull. Hence, I don't own one.
It just brings the contact points rearward in
the trigger gaurd.
My 220 came standard with one which I'm glad
for, cause they're pricey lil buggers.
...WW
The short trigger is a viable option for me cause,
my hands are on the small side. Gripping the gun
is no problem(a Glock 21 still feels 'alrite..') it's the
extended trigger reach that I had to get rid of.
I can't shoot a Beretta with out break'n my grip on
the first pull. Hence, I don't own one.
It just brings the contact points rearward in
the trigger gaurd.
My 220 came standard with one which I'm glad
for, cause they're pricey lil buggers.
...WW
da/sa requires quite a bit more practice in ensuring your grip is the same from shooting da to sa.
Your "sweet spot" in terms of grip is different when shooting da to when you are shooting sa. this can effect where your shots are going depending how much finger you get onto the trigger.
I'll also give one hell of a vote for the RDAK as its a very comfortable and consistent trigger pull.
Your "sweet spot" in terms of grip is different when shooting da to when you are shooting sa. this can effect where your shots are going depending how much finger you get onto the trigger.
I'll also give one hell of a vote for the RDAK as its a very comfortable and consistent trigger pull.
I hear what you're sayin ghostie, but I'm still goin for the DAK. I am training as if I would be carrying it in a tactical situation (even if I never get to overseas, ya right) or just around town if I could (damn you Canadian laws ). Thats just the way I like to do things. Even if I never get the chance. I still am goin for the DAK though. Thanks a lot again for the info/suggestions/comments guys I appreciate it.
). Thats just the way I like to do things. Even if I never get the chance. I still am goin for the DAK though. Thanks a lot again for the info/suggestions/comments guys I appreciate it.
Nice to know the difference between SA/DA vs DAK in P226 9mm.
By looking at the Wolverrine price list http://www.wolverinesupplies.com/webdox/pricelists/SIG 2007 Retail Prices.pdf how can I tell which is which? There is no reference to whether it is SA/DA or DAK.
By looking at the Wolverrine price list http://www.wolverinesupplies.com/webdox/pricelists/SIG 2007 Retail Prices.pdf how can I tell which is which? There is no reference to whether it is SA/DA or DAK.
Danny Boy said:Nice to know the difference between SA/DA vs DAK in P226 9mm.
By looking at the Wolverrine price list http://www.wolverinesupplies.com/webdox/pricelists/SIG 2007 Retail Prices.pdf how can I tell which is which? There is no reference to whether it is SA/DA or DAK.
If the price is $1,100 or so it is going to be SA/DA. If it is $1,300 something it is either DAK or you are getting hosed
.Phone the dealer and ask them what is what with their stock. I'd also get the night sights (3 dot) if I were you. I prefer it to the standard "post and dot" Sig sights. The DAK guns also have a bobbed hammer and no decocker, so they are immediately recognizable if you are looking at the actual gun you will be buying.
Ok, anyone know of a dealer that has a P226R DAK in stock? Cause I phoned The Shooting Edge 2 weeks ago, and they said it'd be in stock in 2 weeks. Well I called them today, (2 weeks later) and the said it was going to take a lot longer than that, which was my original thought. I called Wolverine Supplies and they daid it would take 2 months to get it in, which seemed more realistic to me. So, if anyone knows if there is a Canadian dealer who has one in stock please let me know. Thanks
