Sighting in a scope...
- Thread starter Waterfowler
- Start date
- Location
- Manitoulin Island
Take out bolt, mount gun on rest (if you have one). Look through barrel and scope. If it looks close, aim and fire. Without moving rifle in rest, move scope adjustments to bullet hole. You should be close enough for 100 Yds.
put a target out at 10 yards. Shoot. Track crosshairs to bullet impact. Shoot again, adjust, until you hit the bull
Move target to 25 yards. Shoot. Track, shoot again, adjust til you hit bull.
Move target to 50 yards. Shoot, track, etc.
Move to 75 yards. Shoot, track, etc.
Move to 100. Shoot, track, get your zero.
Move target to 25 yards. Shoot. Track, shoot again, adjust til you hit bull.
Move target to 50 yards. Shoot, track, etc.
Move to 75 yards. Shoot, track, etc.
Move to 100. Shoot, track, get your zero.
saskgunowner101
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- middle of Sask
I find it easy to sight in looking through the barrel. Make sure you have a good rest, look through barrel at a 100 meter target. Center target in your barrel, then adjust your cross hairs.
Now shoot at 25 meters. Dial it in for center, and maybe an inch low. Once you are rough sighted, end up at 100 meters, cause you're already centered on paper.
Now shoot at 25 meters. Dial it in for center, and maybe an inch low. Once you are rough sighted, end up at 100 meters, cause you're already centered on paper.
When you don't have a bore sighter, the looking throught the bore is a good way to go.
I have had occasions that I need signt-in the scope for a semi at the range (without the bore sighter with me). I asked someone to stand behind me as a spotter. 10" left and 24" high...... You get the idea?
I have had occasions that I need signt-in the scope for a semi at the range (without the bore sighter with me). I asked someone to stand behind me as a spotter. 10" left and 24" high...... You get the idea?
- Location
- Yellowknife, NWT
Holy cow! How much ammo does it usually take you? If you're dead-on at 25 yards, you'll be on the paper at 100. No need to shoot at 50 or 75 yards.
If I think my rifle is way off, I do the opposite from most posters here, I get someone to spot me at 200 yards and when it gets close there I move back in to 100. I find if I am off only a couple of inches at 25 yards I am often off paper on the 8 1/2" by 11" paper targets I use.
x2 on the holy cow. I recently sighted in a 270 that I had never seen before. Here's what I did, and hence what I recommend-
Go to JBM Ballistic Calculator, and get a trajectory field for the round you're using- you'll need to know the velocity for the brand and flavor of caliber, and pick a similar bullet out of the menu. You do not need to be extremely picky here, if you have the weight and whether it has a boat tail or not, you're going to be off to a fine start. You'll pick what you want your zero to be in yards or meters- I picked 200 for the 270.
Check out the tables and look at where the slug is going to be at 50 yards, for me it was about a half inch high.
Set up a target at 50 yards (or 25 if you'd rather refer to the 25 yard impact point on the table), and punch a hole.
Clear and make safe, and walk down to the target- measure where the hole is compared to where you want it. If you're shooting at 50 yards with a 270, and you want to be zero'ed at 200, you want the holes to be a half inch above the point of aim.
Write down how many inches laterally and how many inches vertically you need to move the POI. Multiply this value by x4 if you have 1/4" MOA clicks, or 2 if you have 1/2" MOA clicks. Then multiply the value you get by x4 again to compensate for the fact you're shooting at a quarter of the distance. Do some clickin'.
Shoot again, and you should be close enough for government work. Grab a new target (or change POA) and shoot a group of three. For the 270, if they average at a half inch high, centered vertically, you can skip all the noisemaking at ranges in between 25 and 200... go right to 200 and you'll be pretty darn close.
Why shoot a group? Because assuming you can shoot it like its viced, the barrel is not without errors, so it can only group so well- hence you need to use an average to determine POI.
Go to JBM Ballistic Calculator, and get a trajectory field for the round you're using- you'll need to know the velocity for the brand and flavor of caliber, and pick a similar bullet out of the menu. You do not need to be extremely picky here, if you have the weight and whether it has a boat tail or not, you're going to be off to a fine start. You'll pick what you want your zero to be in yards or meters- I picked 200 for the 270.
Check out the tables and look at where the slug is going to be at 50 yards, for me it was about a half inch high.
Set up a target at 50 yards (or 25 if you'd rather refer to the 25 yard impact point on the table), and punch a hole.
Clear and make safe, and walk down to the target- measure where the hole is compared to where you want it. If you're shooting at 50 yards with a 270, and you want to be zero'ed at 200, you want the holes to be a half inch above the point of aim.
Write down how many inches laterally and how many inches vertically you need to move the POI. Multiply this value by x4 if you have 1/4" MOA clicks, or 2 if you have 1/2" MOA clicks. Then multiply the value you get by x4 again to compensate for the fact you're shooting at a quarter of the distance. Do some clickin'.
Shoot again, and you should be close enough for government work. Grab a new target (or change POA) and shoot a group of three. For the 270, if they average at a half inch high, centered vertically, you can skip all the noisemaking at ranges in between 25 and 200... go right to 200 and you'll be pretty darn close.
Why shoot a group? Because assuming you can shoot it like its viced, the barrel is not without errors, so it can only group so well- hence you need to use an average to determine POI.
+1 He must really like wasting his time!
pull your bolt. use the barrel as a peepsight. use a rest/bipod anf get it centered on the bull. adjust scope to match.
ta-da. you're on paper @ 100yrds.
- Location
- The land of eternal winter.
X 3
If you get a target with the orange circle in the middle rather than a + it's easier to see down the bore.
If you get a target with the orange circle in the middle rather than a + it's easier to see down the bore.
That's all there is to it.
I've been doing it that way for 20 some years.
I usually end up within an inch or two off windage wise and maybe 4" to 6" low @ 100 yards.
A few times I never had to adjust the windage at all.
Try it, you'll be amazed how well it works.
Got a Bushnell bore sighter for Christmas several years back. It's really the way to go if you have a few rifles and change scopes around. Before that I did the other thing adjusting the scope while sighting down the barrel. Worked pretty good also, though.
Haha no it doesn't use a lot of ammo.
I do it that way cause I've tried the "dead on at 25 yards" trick, and it didn't work. Could have been the scope, loads, whatever, but it didn't work. It was a real pain in the ass to be dead center at 25, only to not have ANY rounds hit the paper at 100...
Usually I shoot at 25 yards, see where the bullet impacts, twist the knobs, fire again to confirm I am on, then move to 50. Then do the same, fire once, twist knobs, check, then move again. If you're a decent shooter, you can do it in 6 shots.
I do it that way cause I've tried the "dead on at 25 yards" trick, and it didn't work. Could have been the scope, loads, whatever, but it didn't work. It was a real pain in the ass to be dead center at 25, only to not have ANY rounds hit the paper at 100...
Usually I shoot at 25 yards, see where the bullet impacts, twist the knobs, fire again to confirm I am on, then move to 50. Then do the same, fire once, twist knobs, check, then move again. If you're a decent shooter, you can do it in 6 shots.
