Silver brazing material on Canada

exseparatist

exseparatist

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Good Day

For one of my home gunsmithing projects, I need to weld a little carbon steel part to a stainless steel receiver.

As the stainless steel receiver is heat treated, I need a low melting point silver alloy. The stress on the little carbon steel part will only be a compression load.

Where can I buy, online, material for silver brazing in Canada ? - I do not want to order from US.

Thank you

EX
 
I found silver brazing rods at NAPA that worked with a blowtorch. You can also check with any welding supply store. Just make sure you get the right stuff for the tools you have. There’s different rods for torch and TIG setups.
 
plumbing stores still sell soft silver with a flux if nothing else, amazon has it

ht tps://www.amazon.ca/STA-BRITE-Silver-Solder-STAR2000-Stay-Brite/dp/B0015H6JYS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1545595113&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=silver+solder&psc=1

ive used this one bought locally, and its decent stuff
 
Depends if you want to braze or silver solder. Brazing will mean using more heat I believe. Silver solver is available at most hardware stores.....even Walmart as of two years ago. Silver solder is much easier to work with on small parts, just be sure to flux the mating surfaces. If you can't find silver solder flux try mixing powdered borax (from laundry aisle of grocery store) and regular plumber's flux. And remember that the solder will flow wherever the flux flows and solder can't be blued. Good luck!
 
Silver brazing is far too hot according to your stated requirements.
You need silver bearing solder and a compatible flux eg. the Stay Brite solder previously suggested and Stay Kleen (sp?) flux.
This is fairly low temp stuff and your heat control during soldering is very important, do not overheat.
I have used these products to attach carbon steel to stainless with great success.
 
Silver solder is the mainstay of jewelry making. Any jewelry supply store will have it, and flux to go with it. Melting points are named hard to extra easy (lowest).
 
I got 4% silver bearing solder "Stay Brite" and appropriate flux on Amazon.ca earlier this year. As I understand it, that solder needs the correct flux to stick to stainless steel. Much, much lower working temperatures than straight "silver" brazing. Check out Stay Brite parent website for the recommended flux.
 
Whatever you use , practice on some scrap material beforehand. With different sizes of metal you have to be careful not to overheat one or the other. The absolute correct flux must be used. If you know a refrigeration mechanic he will probably have or be able to get supplies and torches to use.
 
Without knowing your intended task-

Silver Solder-low temp & silver colored.(600degF)

Silver Braze-high temp & yellowish/straw colored.(1200-1500degF)

Depending on color match requirements-
A 95/5 500degF soft solder to TIN your steel part.
Clean all flux off steel part.
Re-flux/fixture/heat/another drop of solder/clean/blend/done.
 
Following this thread for interest.

I am thinking of making a front sling swivel attachment post for my Chiappa 12" .357. which will require soldering the post to a suitably-curved steel band which will be epoxied inside the forend (with the post protruding through) as the forend wood isn't thick or strong enough to support a post by itself. I have Brownells Hi-Force 44 (which I believe is just a repackaged commercial product) but am wondering if a "harder" silver-bearing solder would be better. The post would also be mechanically fastened to the band by a threaded stud, but that itself wouldn't be enough to hold it securely. The little experience I'he had with harder solders indicates, as others have mentioned - that the right flux and heat is pretty critical.
 
josquin said:
Following this thread for interest.

I am thinking of making a front sling swivel attachment post for my Chiappa 12" .357. which will require soldering the post to a suitably-curved steel band which will be epoxied inside the forend (with the post protruding through) as the forend wood isn't thick or strong enough to support a post by itself. I have Brownells Hi-Force 44 (which I believe is just a repackaged commercial product) but am wondering if a "harder" silver-bearing solder would be better. The post would also be mechanically fastened to the band by a threaded stud, but that itself wouldn't be enough to hold it securely. The little experience I'he had with harder solders indicates, as others have mentioned - that the right flux and heat is pretty critical.
Click to expand...

Check out the Uncle Mikes line of swivels, models are offered that fit on or around magazine tubes. Your idea would work with the stud silver brazed but would be a lot of work and would weaken the forearm where your plate is inletted.
 
Waba said:
Check out the Uncle Mikes line of swivels, models are offered that fit on or around magazine tubes....
Click to expand...

Alas, no go on the Chiappa 12" because the takedown lever gets in the way of the tube clamp closing. BTDT. On a 16" barrel, no problem. There is an Uncle Mike's stud set #115 that has a 10-32 stud for the front, but of course the local Cabela's doesn't stock it, nor Yeagher's in Bellingham WA, which I just checked as I am down there today, so I'll have to order it online. Yes, a lot of work to make the front unit, but I don't really have a choice. I don't think it will weaken the foreand as I've already dry-fitted a piece of 1/2" EMT tube - cut in half and opened up a tiny bit - and it fits into the existing inletting without the need to remove any more wood- the mag tube still clears it. In fact, epoxying in the 1/2 tube might strengthen it a little.
 
josquin said:
Alas, no go on the Chiappa 12" because the takedown lever gets in the way of the tube clamp closing. BTDT. On a 16" barrel, no problem. There is an Uncle Mike's stud set #115 that has a 10-32 stud for the front, but of course the local Cabela's doesn't stock it, nor Yeagher's in Bellingham WA, which I just checked as I am down there today, so I'll have to order it online. Yes, a lot of work to make the front unit, but I don't really have a choice. I don't think it will weaken the foreand as I've already dry-fitted a piece of 1/2" EMT tube - cut in half and opened up a tiny bit - and it fits into the existing inletting without the need to remove any more wood- the mag tube still clears it. In fact, epoxying in the 1/2 tube might strengthen it a little.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the clarification. One aspect that crossed my mind is that with the stud brazed to your EMT you will need to make the hole in the forearm the full diameter of the stud. That might not look so good.
All projects have their challenges, that is what makes this hobby so much fun.
 
Waba said:
Thanks for the clarification. One aspect that crossed my mind is that with the stud brazed to your EMT you will need to make the hole in the forearm the full diameter of the stud. That might not look so good.
All projects have their challenges, that is what makes this hobby so much fun.
Click to expand...

I came to the same conclusion about the stud last night. But the stock is black rubberized so the stud won't really show. Once I have the studs and settle down to actually doing the deed, I'll post pictures. (Or not- if it all goes horribly wrong!)
 
Certanium 34C is my goto for smithing applications. High strength with low melting point. Google it!

I have plenty on hand if anyone wants some to try it shoot me a pm.

Regards
Roly
 
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