Simple Bullet Lubes

Lonesome Donkey

Lonesome Donkey

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It's interesting just how much time and energy has been devoted to inventing ever more efficient bullet lubes, both commercial and home-brewed.

Yet, when I began bullet-casting back in the 70s, I just used a simple beeswax and Vaseline lube (2:1) that I read about in an old book published in the 1930s, (Philip B. Sharpe Guide To Handloading) which I found in the public library.

I used it for .45 ACP, .455 Webley, and .45 LC with complete success at velocities up to 900 FPS.

Lube recipes have become amusingly complicated, with every formulation and every color of the rainbow, with every maker claiming that theirs is best, yet I wonder really just how much better they are than this most basic beeswax/Vaseline recipe for the average user?
 
The same thing has happened with gun oil. I've been using 22 weight hydraulic oil forever.... $66 for a FIVE GALLON PAIL (I got it free) that will last you three lifetimes. Zero problems. Why guys will go out and spend $10 for 2 ounces of something thats likely the exact same stuff, or is scented vegetable oil, is beyond me.
 
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blacksmithden said:
The same thing has happened with gun oil. I've been using 22 weight hydraulic oil forever.... $66 for a FIVE GALLON PAIL (I got it free) that will last you three lifetimes. Zero problems. Why guys will go out and spend $10 for 2 ounces of something thats likely the exact same stuff, or is scented vegetable oil, is beyond me.
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I agree, The gun oil claims are similar to the Dr. Ho products featured on TV, a lot of promises but not much in the way of results.

I like synthetic motor oil for my guns.
 
Lonesome Donkey said:
It's interesting just how much time and energy has been devoted to inventing ever more efficient bullet lubes, both commercial and home-brewed.

Yet, when I began bullet-casting back in the 70s, I just used a simple beeswax and Vaseline lube (2:1) that I read about in an old book published in the 1930s, (Philip B. Sharpe Guide To Handloading) which I found in the public library.

I used it for .45 ACP, .455 Webley, and .45 LC with complete success at velocities up to 900 FPS.

Lube recipes have become amusingly complicated, with every formulation and every color of the rainbow, with every maker claiming that theirs is best, yet I wonder really just how much better they are than this most basic beeswax/Vaseline recipe for the average user?[/QUOTE]

I think the answer to your question is in the velocities being attained now with cast of many different alloys, some upwards of 3000 fps with no leading.
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Lonesome Donkey said:
Yet, when I began bullet-casting back in the 70s, I just used a simple beeswax and Vaseline lube (2:1) that I read about in an old book published in the 1930s, (Philip B. Sharpe Guide To Handloading) which I found in the public library.

I used it for .45 ACP, .455 Webley, and .45 LC with complete success at velocities up to 900 FPS.
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Everything I have read says that it has been well known for 50 years that almost any blend of wax and oil or fat is technically adequate for lubing cast bullets at moderate velocities. The NRA settled on 50:50 beeswax and Alox for a combination of effectiveness, smokiness, cheapness and availableness, but freely admitted that many combinations they had tried covered the effectiveness part just fine.

The lubes that the diligent and dedicated casters have been working on in recent years are intended to excel over a wide range of performance characteristics, most notably much higher velocities than were previously thought possible. They have achieved admirable things, but it won't make a spit of difference to someone who's requirements stop at 900fps.
 
BattleRife said:
Everything I have read says that it has been well known for 50 years that almost any blend of wax and oil or fat is technically adequate for lubing cast bullets at moderate velocities. The NRA settled on 50:50 beeswax and Alox for a combination of effectiveness, smokiness, cheapness and availableness, but freely admitted that many combinations they had tried covered the effectiveness part just fine.

The lubes that the diligent and dedicated casters have been working on in recent years are intended to excel over a wide range of performance characteristics, most notably much higher velocities than were previously thought possible. They have achieved admirable things, but it won't make a spit of difference to someone who's requirements stop at 900fps.
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Admittedly, high velocities do use the super-lubes to advantage.

However, I researched experiences from some using very basic lubes like beeswax and Vaseline, and they mentioned that using the correct bullet alloy, they also worked fine at rifle velocities around 1900 FPS.

It's interesting that the Alox lubricant ingredient in NRA 50/50 lube is a petroleum distillate lubricant.
The modern Alox lubricant MSDS mentioned that it contained naphtha and various solvents.
Naphtha itself is distilled from petroleum and is similar to gasoline.

Humble Vaseline, petroleum jelly, or petrolatum is simply a mixture of distilled petroleum oils and waxes and has been around since 1859.

So, Alox/beeswax lube and Vaseline/beeswax lube may not be that dissimilar.
 
Lubes are funny. Wax is not a lube but a thickener, I did not believe it either. I still make and use my 45-45-10 version 1. It's normal 45-45-10 but another "10" of kiwi black shoe polish then cooked until thick.
I plan to try other lubes soon as it warms up.
My new lube should:
1-not lead my bores
2-easy to make, quick and little mess.
3-components will be easy to get and cheap.
It is hard to get bee's wax at times and it is quite expensive at some stores. Grease should be the main ingredient. There are few recipes out there using grease or oil additives. Tranny fluid I have had used before, found it separates and glopps up and never any consistent batches. Some vasilone lubes cause powdery corrosion.
Be well
 
I shoot mostly .32/.38 pistol target velocity loads & roll my cast in "Johnson's" paste wax. I believe the trick here is to use a softer cast bullet to prevent leading which works for me. I also size them to match the throat diameter of the cylinder in the gun.
The bigger cartridges get lubed the old fashion way with the Lyman 450.
Powder coating looks interesting.....
 
For the past 40 yrs or so, I've just hand lubed using automotive grease. Have kind of settled on moly grease for the last 30yrs or so. I have had no leading up to over 2500fps although accuracy was less than stellar at that speed. Accuracy IS good at velocities up to 1900 - 2000fps depending on the rifle and cartridge.
Grouch
 
leebuilder said:
Lubes are funny. Wax is not a lube but a thickener, I did not believe it either. I still make and use my 45-45-10 version 1. It's normal 45-45-10 but another "10" of kiwi black shoe polish then cooked until thick.
I plan to try other lubes soon as it warms up.
My new lube should:
1-not lead my bores
2-easy to make, quick and little mess.
3-components will be easy to get and cheap.
It is hard to get bee's wax at times and it is quite expensive at some stores. Grease should be the main ingredient. There are few recipes out there using grease or oil additives. Tranny fluid I have had used before, found it separates and glopps up and never any consistent batches. Some vasilone lubes cause powdery corrosion.
Be well
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I was doing some research recently on sources of beeswax in connection with leatherwork hand stitching.
I ran across a reference to using beeswax toilet seals which seal the bowl to the floor.
In these modern times rubber seals are now available, but Home Depot still sells the much cheaper wax ones.
I haven't bought one yet, so I don't know how hard they are or their composition yet (beeswax to paraffin) but they might be a good source for as long as they continue to be made.
They are yellow when new, so you have to assume that the coloring is from beeswax, and not from being in use for many years. :rolleyes:
 
blacksmithden said:
The same thing has happened with gun oil. I've been using 22 weight hydraulic oil forever.... $66 for a FIVE GALLON PAIL (I got it free) that will last you three lifetimes. Zero problems. Why guys will go out and spend $10 for 2 ounces of something thats likely the exact same stuff, or is scented vegetable oil, is beyond me.
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Omg..

Never thought of hydrolic oil.. that stuff should be perfect. I've busted a couple of hydrolic lines and I've seen what that stuff does. Thank you.

What do you use for grease?

Sorry for going off topic
 
Lonesome Donkey said:
I was doing some research recently on sources of beeswax in connection with leatherwork hand stitching.
I ran across a reference to using beeswax toilet seals which seal the bowl to the floor.
In these modern times rubber seals are now available, but Home Depot still sells the much cheaper wax ones.
I haven't bought one yet, so I don't know how hard they are or their composition yet (beeswax to paraffin) but they might be a good source for as long as they continue to be made.
They are yellow when new, so you have to assume that the coloring is from beeswax, and not from being in use for many years. :rolleyes:
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You are right. I seen a video on the YouTube about making lube from toilet wax rings. I try ed to get bee's wax a while back, frankly everywhere I went they said no one buys it so they won't stock it. I did find some a Michaels, 38.00 a pound. Wax rings are also hard to find. Ended up my mom's neighbor had a 45 gal drum full and was good enough to give me a sobeys bag full.

I have reading a bit on the subject namely cast bullits by Colonel can't remember his name, he mentioned same as I did that the wax is a thickener. One of his statements that really made sense was that the lube should be on your muzzle after firing. So far my best boolits and most accurate have left lube at the muzzle. I'm still trying to wrap my head around this, but it makes sence. Bore condition is a factor, boolit size is a factor, alloy and velocity are factors,,,,, I can go on. So far I think a greasy muzzle is a good bench mark, since I can work the factors I know and affect, size and speed.
Be safe
 
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Back in 1975, I was in Buffalo, NY. As I drove around in the industrial district, I came to a building that had a sign on it reading "The Alox Corporation" I went inside and when I came out, I was carrying a 5 gallon pail of ALOX 2138F
AlOX 2138F and beeswax are the two ingredients required to make NRA Bullet Lubricant. The mix is 50/50.
I used this lube exclusively for all my cast bullet shooting. I was rooting around last week and found two plastic jugs of lube that I forgot I had!!! I dug out my lube moulds and went to work. Here is the result of my efforts:



The sticks are hollow, measure roughly 5" long and work great in my Lyman 450.



I'm 72 years old and if I'm going to use all this stuff up before I meet my maker, I need to stay off this computer and get shooting!!!
 
Wow, that is the most bullet lube I ever saw! Nice colour too. I can't even imagine the pile of bullets you would have using up all that lube, or the time in hours pulling the handle on the 450.

Nice job Mike! Thanks for the photo....
 
Lonesome Donkey said:
It's interesting just how much time and energy has been devoted to inventing ever more efficient bullet lubes, both commercial and home-brewed.

Yet, when I began bullet-casting back in the 70s, I just used a simple beeswax and Vaseline lube (2:1) that I read about in an old book published in the 1930s, (Philip B. Sharpe Guide To Handloading) which I found in the public library.

I used it for .45 ACP, .455 Webley, and .45 LC with complete success at velocities up to 900 FPS.

Lube recipes have become amusingly complicated, with every formulation and every color of the rainbow, with every maker claiming that theirs is best, yet I wonder really just how much better they are than this most basic beeswax/Vaseline recipe for the average user?
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...very good thread

i raise bees so wax isn't an issue

wax x vaseline, and wax x tallow have worked well...heavy hydraulic fluid...synthetic oil...are all you need

...i'll add a plug for ed's red, too, that i go through by the gallon

...and regular polishing compound

...and paper patched long gun bullets

...i have some stiffer commercial products that i might use for special needs

...$ saved on these is simply $ spent on shooting and hunting

...thanks
 
Modern wax toilet seals are not made from beeswax anymore, but rather from a petroleum derivative wax. Says so right on the package.
At least mine do. Still, beeswax at the local farmers market is cheap enough per pound.
 
i casted bullets, then tumble lubed them with Rooster Jacket lube. After drying, sized them. .38 wad cutters & .38 SWC's worked great if the FPS was under 800.
9mm presents the biggest problem. Using my above noted process, and re-lubing after sizing the 9mm bullets, they still smeared & leaded the barrel. Turns out my "range" lead cast 9mm bullets are just too soft to drive 900 + FPS, regardless of lube.

Appears to me that it is more cost effective to powder coat the soft 9mm bullets than add hardeners to my ingots.
 
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