Sizing Weatherby stocks ?

telesquirt

telesquirt

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I had posted before regarding a bad crack in my Mark V's stock---I was looking around Ebay and found someone selling what appears to be good used stocks.
My question is---is the below info correct and if so,what does it mean when they say that minor modifications may have to be made for dropping in a German made action(which mine is), and finally---how hard is it to repair these things?--does it have to go to a gunsmith or would a really handy woodworker type of guy be the best to see??

Here is the info off of the ebay site------thanks guys any feed back would be appreciated.

-Rob.

What these stocks are-

This stock is designed to fit aright hand Magnum Mark V Weatherby unless otherwise noted in the description. These units will fit American and Japanese models as a dropin or 99% dropin. German models will require very minor modifications. These stocks will not work for a Vangaurd.



Barrel channels available:

Q: I don't understand #1 #2 #3 #4 barrel, what stock do i need?

A:

15/16" at the exit of the barrel channel is a #4. (460's are typical)
7/8" at the exit of the barrel channel is a #3. (.375, .378, .416's are typical)
3/4" at the exit of the barrel channel is a #2 (.340 on down in a mag reciever with a 26" barrel)
11/16" at the exit of the barrel channel is a #1. (24" barrel and lightweight receiver config)
 
where is the crack in your stock and how bad is it? i built furniture as a hobby for the last 12 years and have fixed a few stocks as well, none have ever broken again. they are really easy to fix.
 
"...minor modifications may have to be made for dropping in a German made action..." It means there are minor differences on them that need to have a bit of wood removed to fit the stock.
Like rmkm70 says, where the crack is matters. Usually a bit of epoxy and a clamp will fix it.
"...don't understand #1 #2 #3 #4 barrel..." That's the contour and diameter of the barrel. It's determined by the calibre you have. IE. If your rifle is a .340 Weatherby Mag, the barrel is 3/4" where the forestock ends and your barrel is a #2. There are multiple models of the Mk V, each with a different number too. Go to Weatherby's site and into the Mk V page and look for the cartridge your's is chambered in and you'll see the number.
Add the W's. .weatherby.com/products/products.asp?prd=Rifles&prd_type=1&prd_sub_type=1
 
Thanks for the info guys---

the stock on mine cracked from the rear of the trigger guard back to the pistol grip then came back up to the back of the tang !.
It is almost completly seperated and when you gently flex the stock the crack opens right up!
This happened out of the blue on a 6 day moose hunt and I had to "repair" it with a roll of electrical tape.
 
I've bought three stocks from the guy whose ad you have quoted. His descriptions were honest, and accurate. He has sold some stocks that had figure that was simply outstanding.

I have an extra MkV stock that is for a 340, 300, regular contour, if you can't find one elsewhere. Although I haven't ever tried dropping in a German action, there should be little fitting required if the barrel contour is right.
 
sounds like an easy fix!

remove the action from the stock. use a flat blade screw driver an jam it into the crack inside the action inlet so you don't mark the stock where its visible when the action in installed, put some force into it to open up the crack. use a polyurethane glue such as lepage or gorilla glue. blow air into the crack to force the glue it. take the screw driver out and clamp in. clean all the squeezed out glue off with a damp rag.

if done right it won't ever crack again. in the same spot.
 
"if done right it won't ever crack again. in the same spot."


Ha ha----ya! I had visions of the stock taking out a lung if a moose had come out that morning!
:sniper:
 
it won't crack again because glue is stronger than wood. the crack won't open up again, but it won't stop the stock from cracking somewhere else. you have about the same chance of a new stock cracking as the old one after its fixed. the fix would cost about $15 if you have to buy a clamp.

the advantage of polyurethane glue is it foams and expands a little at it dries so it will force its way even deeper into the crack. ordinary wood glue shrinks as it dries.
 
Hi guys thanks for the replies.

rmkm70 I'll give it a try----If it turns out great!----but if not I had nothing to lose anyhow.


Hi5 --- I may get back to you on that stock you have----I'm all thumbs when it comes to woodworking LoL :redface:
 
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