Sks black paint removal with after pics

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oldguner

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So I got a refurbish beater sks that had BBQ paint touch up everywhere, it wouldn't be so bad but it looked like this was done on a Friday, and really sloppy, so I got some de-sovent contractor solvent, sprayed all the metal down and used a brass brush in the hot bathtub and it came off easily, so now I know what they were hiding, only a bit bluing loss, and some very minor rust that I could wipe off with gun oil, and it turns out the bore was mint as well, maby I will have to redo the stock as well to clean it up nice , I could post some pics if people are interested, I just forgot to take before shots



 
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Of course posting pics is welcome. I'd like to see and too bad there's not a before shot. Maybe other members will try it and get before and after pictures.

I may even try it got nice one here that's extra to try it out on.
 
Methyl Hydrate and a rag will clean the touch up BBQ paint right up as well. I was at work with a new SKS and tried it. Got everything off including automotive paint.

Acetone will remove the shellac off the stock without damaging the " authentic look " of the wood underneath. You can steam out dents with iron and rag, oil with BLO lightly and refinish with shellac.
 
Looks much better now than the BBQ paint examples I've seen, and imagine yours looked like before this process. Bluing can be fixed up, if desired, or keep a coat of CLP on it.
 
I redone a few BBQ sks rifles last summer. I noticed that they were non matching parts through out. As well ,some of the parts had been burnt or gone through a fire, You could very easily see the discoloration from the intense heat. This batch was the worst I'd ever seen. Glad you got a good one,...look closely for discoloring.
 
Hey guys~bumping this one, as I was searching for the best way to remove BBQ paint. My nephew picked-up a BBQ paint one this past weekend and asked me if it was possible. I don't know much about ones that got this treatment, so I don't know whether or not what's underneath could look worse...? Can't imagine though..

Re: solvents if you had to do all the metal~what exactly are you using, and how? Most people (myself included) don't have a metal trough to immerse the thing in.
 
Boris Badinov said:
Interesting project. Not sure how the bbq paint the Soviets used measures up to Duracoat or Durablue.

But this migh be worth consideration:
https://youtu.be/M23lFOSdqVU
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Most people seem to call it BBQ paint here, not sure why, except for a few samples, most that I have seen are pretty good coatings, I figured it was Russia's first attempts at Parkerizing or some other type of coating! Some are very tough! I wouldn't remove it unless you have one that is peeling or you really have to have blueing!
 
Boris Badinov said:
Not sure how the bbq paint the Soviets used measures up to Duracoat or Durablue
Click to expand...

That "BBQ" coating is surprisingly durable. I purchased a Molot refurbished SKS (Г И C 14) in March this years. I've been shooting it 4 times a month since then. The coating is perfect. No flaking, no nothing (pic).
By the way, those Molot SKS's have a nicely blued magazine not painted, very elegantly pinned.

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D4ELndT.jpg

MzAkdxs.jpg
 
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There are two coatings out there. The thick durable, "parkerized" ones and the ones that are literally BBQ spray paint.
The thick stuff is near impossible to remove, the BBQ paint wipes off with most solvents.
 
Methyl hydrate and a stiff wire brush. Then some coarse steel wool dipped in methyl hydrate.
In some places 600 grit comes in handy.
I got a PVC tube and glued on a cap to dip the barreled action into the methyl hydrate.
Multiple bluing and steel wooling will eventually bust through the grey anodized finish and yield a nice blue finish.
Labour intensive, but nice.
 
Only BBQ paint on mine are on the frankenmags. Actually, this thread got me thinking of a new project of repairing the frankenpins to something nicer.
 
Northern Amateur said:
Only BBQ paint on mine are on the frankenmags. Actually, this thread got me thinking of a new project of repairing the frankenpins to something nicer.
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I also have a very nice, blued, Russian "letter series" SKS (1957) with a frankenmag. I've been using Ballistol (undiluted) for cleaning after shooting with corrosive ammo. After a few months I noticed that "BBQ" paint started flaking off by itself and underneath there is a very nice bluing except that small area where the weld is located. I just bought a Presto Gun Blue Pen and started re-bluing that area. It goes very well. It needs a few coatings.
 
lone ranger said:
I redone a few BBQ sks rifles last summer. I noticed that they were non matching parts through out. As well ,some of the parts had been burnt or gone through a fire, You could very easily see the discoloration from the intense heat. This batch was the worst I'd ever seen. Glad you got a good one,...look closely for discoloring.
Click to expand...

Maybe they cured the bbq paint in an actual bbq.
 
05RAV said:
I also have a very nice, blued, Russian "letter series" SKS (1957) with a frankenmag. I've been using Ballistol (undiluted) for cleaning after shooting with corrosive ammo. After a few months I noticed that "BBQ" paint started flaking off by itself and underneath there is a very nice bluing except that small area where the weld is located. I just bought a Presto Gun Blue Pen and started re-bluing that area. It goes very well. It needs a few coatings.
Click to expand...

The paint on the bottom of the frankenpin mags isn't the BBQ paint I'm referring to. That's just some black crap they slapped on after grinding the weld. You'll find it used as touch up in places too. It flakes off very easily. The BBQ paint was done at refurbishment.
 
Bubba Yugga said:
Methyl hydrate and a stiff wire brush. Then some coarse steel wool dipped in methyl hydrate.
In some places 600 grit comes in handy.
I got a PVC tube and glued on a cap to dip the barreled action into the methyl hydrate.
Multiple bluing and steel wooling will eventually bust through the grey anodized finish and yield a nice blue finish.
Labour intensive, but nice.
Click to expand...
Not sure I am following, are you saying you expose the original blueing? Cause that would be cool!
 
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