SKS bolt pin removal issue

cdncowboy

cdncowboy

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I just bought an sks and have stripped it for cleaning. I followed the directions is the field stripping thread (thanks!) but I cannot get the pin out of my bolt to remove the extractor and firing pin. I have a 1953 Tula sks and according to the field stripping thread it should just come out with a tap using a hammer and punch. Well, I tapped lightly..then harder... then really hard several times with no luck. I don't want to damage it ... is there some trick to this? I put the bolt in a raised position and supported it on 2 pieces of metal on a concrete floor... so the pin is elevated, free to move, and the housing is supported... any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
Penetrating lube, place it on top of a drilled piece of 2x4, use an auger punch ww w.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-solid-auger-punch-0581622p.html to get her started and drive her out with a regular pin punch once you've moved her 1/8-1/4". You will need to give it a HARD whack or 10 before she starts moving and it gets easier after that. After a few times, you will be able to get it out with a pin punch only.
 
I recently cleaned a Norinco SKS that has the cosmo soak deep into the pinhole. After spraying some lube I had to bash the #### out of that thing with a punch for a good 5 minutes.

Don't need to be gentle with these guns!
 
I just picked up a 1953 Tula as well - refurb with black bolt. Had to really work to get the pin out as well. 2 things really help:

1) Forget the crummy punch that comes with the cleaning kit. Get a more substantial punch with a flat face that is almost the size of the pin. To punch the pin out the first time, I used a square-head screwdriver as the punch at least to get the pin started and it worked well. You'll have to hit the pin hard, more than once.

2) Use a partially open vise as a base to hold the bolt - much better than a wood block with a hole drilled in it as the wood absorbs some of the impact energy. My "portable solution" is to use a big bit for a ratchet set - the pin can move through the square hole and it provides a flat metal surface to rest the bolt on. Sitting on a concrete floor, the energy transfer from hammer to pin is very good.

Now getting the pin back in with a hammer is also a challenge sometimes - a visual check of firing pin alignment to ensure the hole is completely open is critical. Shaking the reassembled bolt back and forth to check for the rattle of a free-moving firing pin is critical for safety (slam fire).

Regards,
Peter
 
I had one hell of a time getting one out recently. It wouldn't budge using a ball peen and wooden block, and was hard on my knuckles. Ended up sticking it in the freezer overnight then put in in a drill press vise (I think these things were made for SKS owners). After a couple of good whacks on a concrete floor with a small sledge it popped out. Turns out that the firing pin wasn't aligned properly when it was installed at the factory and there was a small raised area on the firing and retaining pins. I had to carefully file the ridges off of both of them then I polished up the retaining pin. It went back in firmly but easily. Keep at it, it will come out.
 
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