Still new to the SKS, but the online forum has been AWESOME! Thanks guys. I do have a question, has anyone used ammonia down a barrel after shooting the cruddy czech surplus? I've read about Windex with ammonia, but would ammonia on its own be better? I'd thought to swab the barrel and dip the head of the piston in raw ammonia to forestall any corrosion. I'll be shooting in the bush at my buddy's place, so it'll be a field cleaning first, and a thorough break down and clean when I get it home. What do you pros think?
SKS cleaning
- Thread starter LawrenceN
- Start date
I am not a pro, but water is cheaper. You don't need to clean it immediatly, it might be able to wait overnight depending on humidity. The "corrosive" element is salt, which attracts moisture and causes rust. A simple HOT water rinse dissolved these salts, and using HOT water heats the metal up so most of the water evaporates in a few seconds. Here is what i do:
-Strip ad soak all small bits in a solvent, I uses kerosen just because I have a little left over from the initial cleaning of my SKS, but any bore solvent will do.
-Take a good cleaning rod and a patch soaked in solvent and clean the bore, gas tube and receiver like you would any other rifle. This removes any carbon.
- use HOT (near boiling) water and flush all parts that come in contact with the gasses. This includes the bore, chamber, gas tube, piston, receiver, gas port. I usually do all metal parts for good measure. Run a dry patch through the bore and gas tube to soak up the majoroty of the water. The rest will evaporate from the hot metal.
-Use a good thick grease and grease the bolt and bolt carrier tracks, the trigger group, and recoil spring. Leave the gas system dry and do not lube the fireing pin.
That is usually how I clean mine. Only thing you might not have is the grease, but a small tube costs like 4 bucks and will last years if uses sparingly.
-Strip ad soak all small bits in a solvent, I uses kerosen just because I have a little left over from the initial cleaning of my SKS, but any bore solvent will do.
-Take a good cleaning rod and a patch soaked in solvent and clean the bore, gas tube and receiver like you would any other rifle. This removes any carbon.
- use HOT (near boiling) water and flush all parts that come in contact with the gasses. This includes the bore, chamber, gas tube, piston, receiver, gas port. I usually do all metal parts for good measure. Run a dry patch through the bore and gas tube to soak up the majoroty of the water. The rest will evaporate from the hot metal.
-Use a good thick grease and grease the bolt and bolt carrier tracks, the trigger group, and recoil spring. Leave the gas system dry and do not lube the fireing pin.
That is usually how I clean mine. Only thing you might not have is the grease, but a small tube costs like 4 bucks and will last years if uses sparingly.
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Ammonia does not dissolve the corrosive salts caused by the ammo. Like LeeEnfieldNo.4_Mk1 said, water is cheaper. And water is what dissolves the salts. Windex works well in the field because of the water in it. I use windex down the barrel and on the gas system right after I am done shooting to get rid of the lions share of corrosive salt. Then when I am home I clean it with CLP just like any other of my semi auto's (I never let it sit over night, never). If I am still concerned about corrosive salts, I turn the tap to uber hot and wash the neccissary parts (which is everything metal that could possibly come in contact with the salt just to be safe). Oil and put away.
easyrider604
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Greater Vancouver, BC
First of all, there is no need for inordinate fear of the evil CZ surplus corrosive ammo. It will not turn your cherished SKS into a glob of useless Iron Oxide overnight.
For field cleaning, bring a small can of WD40. If you can field strip the rifle, good. If not, don't sweat it. First wipe the rifle in and out, as far as you can reach into all the nooks and crannies. Spray WD40 on all outside and inside surfaces, include the bore (spray into both the chamber and muzzle) and trigger assembly. Remove the gas tube and piston, wipe off powder residue and spray with WD40. Reassemble.
Stand the rifle on the muzzle on a clean, non abrasive surface, to drain the WD40.
The WD40 will prevent rust from corrosion because it forms a barrier between the metal surfaces and powder residue that attracts moisture.
It has been 2.5 months since I did this WD40 trick to my 1955 and 1956 Tulas. I have not thoroughly cleaned them and no rust has formed at all.
i clean mine with boiling water (all the metal parts) right after the shooting session (as soon as i get home)
then i do the insides with G96 and the outsides with WD40
so far (4 months since i got it) i have been shooting only czech surplus and havnt had a problem yet
then i do the insides with G96 and the outsides with WD40
so far (4 months since i got it) i have been shooting only czech surplus and havnt had a problem yet
If I don't want to clean my SKS immediately, I strip it (only takes a minute) and hose everything down in WD-40. Then when I get the chance I wash w/ hot soapy water, then solvents, then lube properly. Seems to work fine, no rust yet.
