SKS/CZ858 Sight-in Technique ???

brapjack

brapjack

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Hey guys just wondering what everyone has to say about sighting in 7.62x39.

I have a sks in which i sighted in at 100 meters on the 100 setting.

i have a CZ 858 in which i tried to use the BATTLE ZERO setting and used a AK sight in target set at 25yards.

I know a lot of you will probably have many different ways of doing it, and one may not be better then the other. but i tend to connect more with my SKS when engaging targets near the 100m-150m ranges, both do about the same closer in, and past the 150M mark i feel as tho im working with more luck then skill at this point 2/5 on the 200M mark makes me giddy with ether rifle. Im not shooting paper by the way, mostly gongs. If it pings im happy. not looking at groups.... maybe i should bring the paper back out....

BUT... what is the "standard" procedure for sighting in these rifles. I would assume one method would be interchangeable between AK47, SKS, and CZ 858, since they all use that wonderful 7.62x39.

I would IDEALY like to be able to have the sights very similar on both so i don't have to be making metal notes that the sks hits 2" high at 50m and the CZ hits 4" at 50m......am i asking to much????

Help me out guys?

photo1-2.jpg

this is the target i used on the CZ.
 
The sights on all 3 you mention are basically the same. A front post, which threads into a windage adjustable circular block contained within the front sight housing, and a leaf adjustable rear sight.

How you set it, depends on your personal preference. When you aim, do you put the front sight sight in the center of your target, or take 6'olock hold, front post beneath the target (mostly used for bulls eye shooting). From there it is simply adjusting the rear leaf to the corresponding range (say 100m) and fire. Then adjust the front sight up or down to correct the impact. If you aim center target, then you want the bullet strike to be just barely above where you aim. If a 6'oclock hold (bullseye shooting) then you might want to adjust so that the bullet strikes the center of the target when aiming at the bottom of it.

Once your sights are set, they should regulate to the ammo. Whatever setting you adjust the rear leaf to, the bullet impact should be close to your aiming point at that particular distance.

The windage is adjustable by pushing the circular barrel to one side or the other.

That's the basics, you can fine tune to your preferences your exact impact point. The sight leaf graduations are regulated to the ammo, so moving the sight leaf to shoot at various distances should produce accurate hits.
 
I put my cz at 1/4" low at 25 yards set on the Battle sight
This gives me out to 250 with a 3" deviation high and low with POA
 
One other thing I should have mentioned, none of the 3 rifles named would be considered "match grade", so I would fire a group, at least 5 shots as accurately as I could, and then adjust the front sight to move the center of the group to your aiming point.

The CZ I had would put 5 rounds in the center of an 8" bullseye target @100m with Sellier & Bellot ammo. Group size was about 4" The sights were as set by the factory. I used a 6 o'clock hold, so that equates to 4" high @ 100m
Since I too, mostly shoot at gongs, I left the elevation alone and fine tuned the windage.
 
50 meter zero wil be great for engaugments between 25 to 20 meters. All 5 shots if you do your part will group with in a 6 inch spread of the 50 meter poi. Then at 300 meters say aiming at a 6 foot target place your front post sight at the top lip of the target and they will land in the middle of said target. After that its a crap shoot.
Enjoy and now go blasting!
 
Mr.4x4 said:
I put my cz at 1/4" low at 25 yards set on the Battle sight
This gives me out to 250 with a 3" deviation high and low with POA
Click to expand...

this is what im looking for. i know how to make adjustments. i have heard guys using 100m setting and using a target at 25m.

i like the idea of battle zero. as most gongs we got are 5" wide and like a foot long. besides our one 30 inch round combine sprocket out at 200m.
 
jakester said:
The sights on all 3 you mention are basically the same. A front post, which threads into a windage adjustable circular block contained within the front sight housing, and a leaf adjustable rear sight.

How you set it, depends on your personal preference. When you aim, do you put the front sight sight in the center of your target, or take 6'olock hold, front post beneath the target (mostly used for bulls eye shooting). From there it is simply adjusting the rear leaf to the corresponding range (say 100m) and fire. Then adjust the front sight up or down to correct the impact. If you aim center target, then you want the bullet strike to be just barely above where you aim. If a 6'oclock hold (bullseye shooting) then you might want to adjust so that the bullet strikes the center of the target when aiming at the bottom of it.

Once your sights are set, they should regulate to the ammo. Whatever setting you adjust the rear leaf to, the bullet impact should be close to your aiming point at that particular distance.

The windage is adjustable by pushing the circular barrel to one side or the other.

That's the basics, you can fine tune to your preferences your exact impact point. The sight leaf graduations are regulated to the ammo, so moving the sight leaf to shoot at various distances should produce accurate hits.
Click to expand...



Great info, but what is your initial sight in technique. 100m setting at a 100m target, then the graduations on the rifles(s) will correspond?

If i Battle zero as MR.4x4 says, then move my left to 100m am i on at 100m? and 200m? and so on and so forth?
 
In a nutshell yes. My battle sight behind the 100 is a U so I leave it there. If I was to put it on 100 it will still be a little high. The battle zero is so you can engage enemy targets easily on the battlefield without screwing around. If you want more accuracy zero the rifle on the 100 at 100 then put it on the Battle sight and see where you are at 25 and 50 then just remember your hold over or under to make a quick shot then place the sight on 100 to be more accurate at 100.
 
Oh and yes if it's sighted in for 100 on the 100 sight then it will be on at the other ranges of the sight ie 200 on 200 etc etc
IIRC these sights are meant for 124gr surplus ammo
 
I set all of my AK and SKS on that target at about same elevation as you do. Perhaps 1/4 " lower. Just center your group and I think you will do fine.
Are you purchasing those targets? There are a lot of non-copyrighted printable ones out there. Those were copyrighted after release and for profit cause so many use it.
I just print out how ever many I need.
 
brapjack said:
Great info, but what is your initial sight in technique. 100m setting at a 100m target, then the graduations on the rifles(s) will correspond?



If i Battle zero as MR.4x4 says, then move my left to 100m am i on at 100m? and 200m? and so on and so forth?
Click to expand...

Yes, with 124gr military spec ammo.

I would zero on the 100m setting at 100m. The battle setting is I believe the equivalent of the regular 300m sight graduation, or fairly close. If your zeroed at properly at 100m then switching to any of the other sight settings, should produce accurate fire at the distance selected.

If the battle setting is in fact the equivalent of 300m then your trajectory should be very close to this:

50m 4.2` 100m 8.1` 150m 10.0` 200m 9.6` 250m 6.4` 300m 0.0

Hope this helps.
 
jakester said:
Yes, with 124gr military spec ammo.

I would zero on the 100m setting at 100m. The battle setting is I believe the equivalent of the regular 300m sight graduation, or fairly close. If your zeroed at properly at 100m then switching to any of the other sight settings, should produce accurate fire at the distance selected.

If the battle setting is in fact the equivalent of 300m then your trajectory should be very close to this:

50m 4.2` 100m 8.1` 150m 10.0` 200m 9.6` 250m 6.4` 300m 0.0

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

I agree with this. The U position on the rear sights is alot higher the 100-200m setting on the rear. From 50-100y i leave my set at 100m grad. If I leave it on the U setting it shots well high at 100 and frigging putta the park at 50.
 
The Russian Training target he is using is designed for using the battle field setting to zero with. 300meters. BUT, this is based on a full silhouette target. ie "Minute of man."
I have set rifles for this target for 100 yards. But I get ###X at 200 or above. To start out for gongs, I would use the battlefield sight setting first if you shoot over 100.
Windage will be the critical adjustment. It is said the Russians developed that target so they did not have to train each soldier at numerous meter marks.
 
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