SKS issues

i dont want to sound like i am being rude to you but... is that your opinion or is that a profenional opinion? What is your back ground againg please don't take this the wrong way i am just trying to learn like most of us here, I am a metal fabricator, welder.
 
i am just trying to learn like most of us here

we all learn by listening to different people whos been around , also experiment on your own , see what best suit you ... i for one agrees with calum , especially the part about not touching the barrel .

i use to shoot my SKS without a bayo and with a bipod attached to the bayo lug and i was shooting way too high (5-6") so i got rid of the bipod , i now use the rest (HG on it ) and with bayo attached .

same results with a cz858 so now i move the bipod closer to the gas tube if i want to use the bipod , ideally without the bipod .
 
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i dont want to sound like i am being rude to you but... is that your opinion or is that a profenional opinion? What is your back ground againg please don't take this the wrong way i am just trying to learn like most of us here, I am a metal fabricator, welder.


There are no professional opinions on barrel harmonics here. The understanding of harmonics of milsurp barrels while more useful then most classic arts degrees just does not pay enough in Canada to buy a coffee at Timmies. What you have is a bunch of folks who love guns trying to help someone with their problems.

The beginning of this video has an ak being fired and you can see the barrel moving as the bullet passes through.

http://video.google.ca/videosearch?hl=en&q=ak 47 barrel &um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wv#

It is reasonable that extending the bayonet or adding a bipod or hanging a roll of toilet paper from the end of the barrel may affect the point at which the bullet leaves the gun and thereby affecting its point of impact.
 
i dont want to sound like i am being rude to you but... is that your opinion or is that a profenional opinion? What is your back ground againg please don't take this the wrong way i am just trying to learn like most of us here, I am a metal fabricator, welder.

No offense taken, BTW my current profession is a turret press operator. :D

Professional opinion, well since I'm not a paid gunsmith no, but I have a fair bit of hunting and target shooting experience under my belt, and read, and seen quite abit...Not to forget the countless hours I have spent talking to those that are professional gunsmiths on this very issue.

For a better description then what I have offered open any Lymans reloading book, and you will see a whole page devoted to barrel harmonics, it is most excellent. :)

Of note... I have this sweet Swedish Mauser sporter that someone put in a Ramline stock. And in spite of ammo type used I could get no better then 3" groups at 100 meters, mean while my full wood version gets 1" groups at 100 meters.

So I slid some paper down between the barrel and the stock, and sure enough there was contact on the left side. Out came the dremel and I honed down the high spot defect in the plastic stock, and like magic my barrel shot the same groups as my full wood version.

So take a close look at the rivet holding the bayonet in the lug, and even how tight the cleaning rod is.

It is reasonable that extending the bayonet or adding a bipod or hanging a roll of toilet paper from the end of the barrel may affect the point at which the bullet leaves the gun and thereby affecting its point of impact.

Bingo!
 
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I imagine that during the later stages of WW2 the Brits and Canadians would have loved it if the Russians had sent them some SKS carbines to use against the Nazis.

Doubt it. They likely would have had no idea what they were - they were not in mass production until after the war, only a very small number of prototypes saw use during the war.
 
if your poi is consistent with different shooting styles and as the barrel heats up, then file down the rear sight blade and deepen the notch for a hillbilly sight fix.
 
My last norc was doing the same thing, sights were maxed and still was shooting about 8" high...I bubba'ed (bent) the rear sight ever so slightly and viola! It sounds pretty hokey, but you wouldn't even notice...although on this gun you said it is out by 20"? That could be a little more noticeable if you go this route!
 
This could be a long shot but IIRC on the SKS there is a battle setting on the rear sight. If you set it too the notch furthest back you are actually set at the battle height of IIRC 200-300m. If you move the range adjustment forward one notch does the rear sight move down?
 
This could be a long shot but IIRC on the SKS there is a battle setting on the rear sight. If you set it too the notch furthest back you are actually set at the battle height of IIRC 200-300m. If you move the range adjustment forward one notch does the rear sight move down?

i have mention it already on the second post altho not in so many words .:D
 
Yeah.... its not in the battle setting. the slide is at its lowest point. I thought I might even grind it a little to get it to seat lower. I was just hoping to avoid busting out the power tools. Might even replace the sights altogether..... perhaps something in a red dot....
 
Have you looked through the barrel to see if it is bent?

I suspect the receiver has been threaded for the barrel improperly. I have seen this in suposed much better quality rifles.

Simple fix is the suggstion to grind down the metal ramp under the sight, so it will go lower. The limit of how much you can lower the rear sight is when it is so low you see the cross pin in the sight. By grinding down the ramp underneath you should be able to lower the front sight a bit, but I don't think you will be able to get it half way down.

I installed a peep sight on one and a red dot on the other. Works like a charm. Using the peep, I even won a vintage rifle match, competing against Lee Enfields.
 
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