Well, it might even be a tiny bit to the positive engagement side, I did make sure it was well away from negative engagement, and mainly flat. The trigger now works beautifully and I tested it by banging it as shown in the video, and the hammer didn't fall. I'm quite pleased...and the Sailor Curt video did state that a neutral engagement was okay, just not the preferred version. I just kept it very slightly positive, not as aggressive as in the video, and the trigger works well! Brownell's Gun Parts online has the Wolffe springs, Dilligaf...
Make a note of the filing you may have to do on the disconnector bar that wasn't mentioned in the video, and in my opinion, if you file the sear for neutral engagement with just a shading towards positive, the lighter hammer spring isn't necessary. In fact, in a conversation I had on the phone with Paul at SKSMan, who works closely with an experienced gunsmith, he recommended against the Wolffe hammer spring because when you do the trigger job, the Wolffe spring often makes the hammer tension to weak for reliable firing. Once again, I tested it by banging on it as shown in the video, and the hammer held firmly. I'm very happy with the light trigger with no creep, and it passed the safety test.
I had some time on my hands this Sunday so I reviewed the four part You Tube article on improving your SKS trigger on You Tube and thought I'd try it! I followed all the filing instructions, except the sear I left at neutral engagement, which is safer than the negative engagement that it had originally but made for a lighter trigger pull than the positive engagement angle that the videos spoke of. I didn't remove any significant material off the front of the sear, just rounded the front edge in a smooth curve and the front face. I then polished the sear mating surface and curved edge with 600grit paper until it was smooth as glass, and did the same with the hammer surface, smoothing the front edge of that as well into a curve. I also polished the sear's grooves where it rides on the tracks with 600 grit wrapped around a metal ruler, and also the top of the tracks themselves, as per the video. I also filed the notch of the disconnector bar deeper to allow the hammer to engage it(the bar that doesn't allow the hammer to fall when the bolt isn't in firing position), re-blued it, and reassembled. Lol, pulling the trigger did nothing! On opening the bolt, I saw the top of the disconnector bar was no longer poking up enough to make contact with the bolt when it went forward, and that was keeping the trigger from falling! NOT covered in the videos! I saw the bottom of the notch of the safety bar needed to be filed a millimetre deeper, as well as the first centimetre of the top of the bar leading up to the notch. I did that, reblued, reassembled, and noticed the tip of the disconnector bar was poking up higher than it had been, and now the bolt depressed it when it went forward. Voila, I pulled the trigger's slack, only a few pounds of pressure needed, felt the faintest click, and then with only a tiny bit of extra pressure the hammer fell. Very smooth trigger rivalling the best modern triggers, all for a few hours' work! By the way, the video showed him installing a lighter Wolff spring...NOT necessary if you stop at making the sear neutral engagement, aka FLAT, and don't go further and make it a positive engagement. Great trigger now!! By the way, I also banged the cocked trigger and tested it as shown in the video, and it passed just fine...
