SKS oil

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Boom Goon

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There is ton of stuff on how to clean the S**T out of the SKS. Question is after disasembly and cleaning what parts need oil and where?
 
I haven't put thousands of rounds through mine like some guys, but i find that after 100 or so rounds I clean it just like any other rifle. Brush with solvent, patch till they come out clean. The only difference is that i flush the action, barrel, magazine and gas cylinder out with about 20 cents worth of cheap dollar store glass cleaner and dry before oiling. Haven't had any problems yet!

As for oil, I use the outers "gun oil" that came with my cheapo cleaning kit from CT on a patch through the barrel and gas cylinder, and motomaster silicone spray for all the rest!
 
Boom Goon said:
There is ton of stuff on how to clean the S**T out of the SKS. Question is after disasembly and cleaning what parts need oil and where?
Click to expand...

The SKS doesnt really need oil to fuction perfectly but if you want to oil, you can oil very slightly the surface contact between the bolt and the bolt carrier and on the sides grooves of the carrier and somes peoples put a drop of oil on the hammer pin and all the others pins of the trigger group. Personnally, i rarely put oil on mines so there's less dirt that will stick on the part. Like i said SKS work perfectly dry. I only use oil or grease for very long storage. If you shoot corrosives ammos, after cleaning, run a very lightly oiled patch down the bore to protect from rust, just wipe the oil with a dry patch before shooting. Dont oil the gas tube and piston, thoses parts must be kept dry, oil only for long term storage.
 
i run an oiled patch down the bore, and over the bolt, bottom side of carrier, in the reciever grooves in carrier, face of hammer, over the oprod, oprod and recoil springs with cheap outers oil. a thin film is all you need to protect the rifle. now most people say dont oil the gas system, but mine will rust within a day if I leave it dry, so I started putting a light coat of ballistol klever in the gas tube and on the piston. Ballistol is thin enough that it burns out of the gas system when shooting so it doesnt collect powder residue and bake on, but it keeps the gas system from rusting. running it without oil will wear parts faster, ultimately wearing out the rifle faster. I dont mind stripping and cleaning my guns after shooting so its not a problem for me.
 
If you're running corrosive ammo through it, flush it out first with boiling hot water or ammonia solution. The Czech stuff is corrosive. I never had problems with Norinco silverbox ammo, as far as corrosiveness went, but it was dirty ammo.
 
Buy Gunk brake cleaner to make your life easy to clean the carbon off. Then as for oil anything work's for these rifle's. Some prefer Gunzilla, while other's love Hoppes. Me personal I like the cheapest & best bang for my buck. That's the stuff Marstar sells;
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P.S. If it slides I use high heat grease & if it pivot's I use oil.
 
Very interesting...The reason I ask is you would think it needed lubrication on metel on metal. Also mine came with a metal jar with two lids. It's full of some grease. What's it for then? And why two lids?
 
thats a dual chamber oil bottle. To get the inside of mine clean I drained the cosmoline out, filled each chamber half way with brakleen and shook the hell out of it, changed the brakleen a couple times and dried it out in the sun. And yes, metal on metal needs lubrication or the parts will eat each other, as well as create excessive heat. You do put oil in your vehicle dont you? I have heard of people using WD-40 in their gas system with good results. WD-40 is very easy on wood and finishes and does provide good flash rust protection.
 
Don't want to hijack, but has anyone ever used any kind of moly lube/paste? Not on bullets, that's just silly :stirthepot2: but on all of the steel to steel contact surfaces? I mean like a VERY thin amount.
 
Grease your SKSs moving parts, don't oil them. Remember to keep the firing pin and firing pin channel clean, dry and free from any dirt, oil or grease.
 
with the sks they say to, when ur done cleaning make sure to shake ur bolt and bolt carrier assemble to hear if ur firingpin ratteles. if u dont here a rattle take out and apart the firing pin assemble theres in structions on youtube and on a forum here called sks basics. if the firing pin dosent rattle means that in some casses it can stick and cause slamfires
 
Glad I asked...I thought it was grease on both sides of the bottle. Never thought it could be cosmoline. I'll put a little oil on the spots that need it most and try the WD-40 on the gas system next time I clean it. Thanks to all who responded, the help is much appreciated!!
 
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