Sks oil?
- Thread starter Bananatole
- Start date
Honestly, I oil everything, then wipe off any excess. The only exception is the firing pin. I have 4, and everything works like a charm, and no rust anywhere.
Don't over think it with this one, it's made for peasants, you can't hurt it.
Sks oil recipe
Choose any ingredient combination:
Vodka
Blood (enemy or your own)
Kitten (the cuter the better)
Orphan tears
Borscht
Perogies
Mix well. Apply by fully submersing the SKS
Seriously, though, there's no definitive answer. You can use just about any oil and it will work just fine. I also lube everythign except the firing pin. I've used Automatic Transmission fluid, 5w30 motor oil, cutting oil, hydraulic oil, air tool oil, silicone spray, white lithium grease, moly grease, Hoppe's oil, Beretta oil...it all works just fine. I have been known to use eds red solvent in the gas tube, which contains ATF and leaves a LIGHT coat of oil when everythign else evaporates. I've also oiled the bolt face and fiting pin with a light oil. no slamfires if you keep the gun clean and don't use an oil that will polymerize over time (like cooking oil)
Choose any ingredient combination:
Vodka
Blood (enemy or your own)
Kitten (the cuter the better)
Orphan tears
Borscht
Perogies
Mix well. Apply by fully submersing the SKS
Seriously, though, there's no definitive answer. You can use just about any oil and it will work just fine. I also lube everythign except the firing pin. I've used Automatic Transmission fluid, 5w30 motor oil, cutting oil, hydraulic oil, air tool oil, silicone spray, white lithium grease, moly grease, Hoppe's oil, Beretta oil...it all works just fine. I have been known to use eds red solvent in the gas tube, which contains ATF and leaves a LIGHT coat of oil when everythign else evaporates. I've also oiled the bolt face and fiting pin with a light oil. no slamfires if you keep the gun clean and don't use an oil that will polymerize over time (like cooking oil)
HAHA
im inclined to oil the whole thing just liek every other firearm ive had. but this is the first with a gas system with tubes and pistons and what not.
thanks for the input.
- Location
- London Ontario
everything works better with lube, we all know that.
the reason not to oil the firing pin is that it needs to float freely- oil prevents that. I reserve comment on the gas chamber- I don't know either way. I tend to trust comments like what 5440fight said- if he's got a bunch, and it works, I tend to believe.
the reason not to oil the firing pin is that it needs to float freely- oil prevents that. I reserve comment on the gas chamber- I don't know either way. I tend to trust comments like what 5440fight said- if he's got a bunch, and it works, I tend to believe.
I use it on the gas piston and tube too. They clean up with a wipe if they have a light coat, and any excess pressure just vents at the front. If the coating is light, no spitting. I do find the cz-858 spits a little oil, but has no adverse effects, other than a slightly warmer front handguard.
Rocket Surgery
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
But oiling the firing pin is the best way to stop the rust from seizing it up. I did this for 2 years and never had a slamfire!
Rocket Surgery
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
What this guy said.
I cleaned my SKS with Hoppes #9 for 2 years and never had rust. After cleaning I would spray everything with WD40, wipe off the excess, and put it back in a gun case.
I put a littlle CLP on everything but the firing pin. I can see where oil in the gas system will gunkk up and attract dirt and fouling over time, but my guns are cleaned after each range trip so no build up happens. Also, I've got 14 of the things, plus 3 SVT40s, and they can end up sitting for a while between outings. I wouldn't do without the wipedown just to protect them.
I clean and lube my sks with break free, mostly. I have used hoppes #9 and gun oil as well. I've had mine for 15yrs. now. Never had an issue, but then I don't fire it a lot, and I mostly use non corrosive ammo.
Keep the firing pin clean. I do wipe a thin coating of oil on it when storing, and wipe it off with a dry patch before going to the range to shoot it.
I also, once in a while, soak the firing pin in hoppes and wipe off, then let air dry, to prevent it from sticking and prevent slam fire situations. So far it's worked.
Keep the firing pin clean. I do wipe a thin coating of oil on it when storing, and wipe it off with a dry patch before going to the range to shoot it.
I also, once in a while, soak the firing pin in hoppes and wipe off, then let air dry, to prevent it from sticking and prevent slam fire situations. So far it's worked.
LordEvilPepper
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Under a rusty barge in BC
CLP on the bolt assembly, and on the actual rod of the piston (not the piston head or tube) works good no issues, easy to clean up.
I lube mine with sand and dirt, thats how she likes it.
haha just kidding of course.
I used to use Breakfree CLP on everything but it's not really worth it.... If its a safe queen sure go ahead and use the good stuff, if it's a shooter (as is the case with most SKS's) just use some cheap synthetic motor oil. It's cheap and it gets the job done on these old Soviet work horses.
I usually run a brush through the bore with some solvent after shooting, then a dry one to clean it out, then one soaked in motor oil to preserve it. Everything, and I mean EVERY other metal part just gets wiped with an oily rag and then put back. No failure to fire/eject/slamfires to date and I've run thousands of rounds through my old 54' Tula, and no rust anywhere.
haha just kidding of course.
I used to use Breakfree CLP on everything but it's not really worth it.... If its a safe queen sure go ahead and use the good stuff, if it's a shooter (as is the case with most SKS's) just use some cheap synthetic motor oil. It's cheap and it gets the job done on these old Soviet work horses.
I usually run a brush through the bore with some solvent after shooting, then a dry one to clean it out, then one soaked in motor oil to preserve it. Everything, and I mean EVERY other metal part just gets wiped with an oily rag and then put back. No failure to fire/eject/slamfires to date and I've run thousands of rounds through my old 54' Tula, and no rust anywhere.
The CZ858 does spit a bit of oil. I used to find that I had a bunch on my shooting glasses after going to the range. I switched to a synthetic general purpose grease and have never looked back. I now grease every semi auto I have except my AR15 - and I may even try it on that. An sks would be no different. Grease would be the ticket on the rails, etc. It doesn't evaporate over time, it doesn't run off when hot, and doesn't seem to gather the crud as fast.
What sort of grease? Lythium grease, bearing grease... what exactly are you using?
