SKS over gassed ? Anyone mod gas system ?

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Have read in several places some consider the SKS over gassed since it is so hard on brass cases. Some have suggested drilling extra ports (or enlarging ports I guess) in gas system to tone it down a bit.

Can't see myself reloading for the SKS but never really thought about this "issue" and made me curious.


What's your thoughts here ? Would it be something somewhat necessary to save brass ? Would it be worth considering for a surplus ammo rig to reduce the extra unnecessary wear on parts ? If you were to enlarge the ports (or add more) what size do you think would be effective to still cycle surplus reliably ?

Honestly, I'm in the shoot the darn thing as intended with surplus rounds camp so not something I'm worried about or anything like that.

Any thoughts on this one ?
 
A oldie out there suggested drilling holes in the gas tube to tone it down a bit. If the reader actually followed the instructions they turned their semi auto into a single shot!
 
That's kinda what I figured ..

Someone along the way must have thought if you turned down the gas a bit you would get better accuracy and tried it out.
 
"Honestly, I'm in the shoot the darn thing as intended with surplus rounds camp so not something I'm worried about or anything like that."
 
my gas piston is suffering a bit and the gun is slower and a tiny bit sluggish I think(For my taste) after around 10000 rounds lol
I have a new one coming to me off the EE.
If I like it you can have my old one if you want to pay the shipping.
It might be easier on the brass.
I only shoot corrosive surplus lol
 
I did one SKS with the modifications from the "helpful hints for Red Rifles" sticky.
The ejector port modification is a good thing if you shoot from a covered area at the range. This modification sends the brass forward instead of upward; very annoying when the cases are hitting the metal roof overhead.
The gas tube modification is conceptually not difficult to do but the gas tube is very hard; you can't use CT twist drills on this curved surface. Cobalt drills work well although doing this at the range with your hand held drill risks breaking the drill in the tube. You can buy a spare gas tube so this modification does not have to be permanent. It works but I was not able to get the spent casings to accumulate in a neat pile probably because I didn't go quite far enough enlarging the holes. Since there may be some significant performance differences in ammunition, you need to be cautious about overdoing this one in case your test ammunition is the most energetic.
The most useful modification in the sticky is the production of 5 round clips. This is easy to do and very effective.
 
my gas piston is suffering a bit and the gun is slower and a tiny bit sluggish I think(For my taste) after around 10000 rounds lol
I have a new one coming to me off the EE.
If I like it you can have my old one if you want to pay the shipping.
It might be easier on the brass.
I only shoot corrosive surplus lol

Thanks for the offer skneub but just going to carry on with surplus. No brass going into my SKS, don't see enough reports of accuracy improvements.
 
I have also modified my gas tube the way described here http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/603359-Helpful-hints-to-DIY-for-Red-Rifles It got my ejection down from 50 feet to 15 where I stopped and called it good. 50 feet is not an exaggeration. Cases were landing on the other side of an abandoned 2 story house on our property. My gas tube drilled easy, dads was not going to happen it was so hard we only scratched it after breaking 4 bits. Haven't tried my brothers.
 
I have also modified my gas tube the way described here http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/603359-Helpful-hints-to-DIY-for-Red-Rifles It got my ejection down from 50 feet to 15 where I stopped and called it good. 50 feet is not an exaggeration. Cases were landing on the other side of an abandoned 2 story house on our property. My gas tube drilled easy, dads was not going to happen it was so hard we only scratched it after breaking 4 bits. Haven't tried my brothers.

Once you go cobalt and bacon grease, you never go back.
 
I did one SKS with the modifications from the "helpful hints for Red Rifles" sticky.
The ejector port modification is a good thing if you shoot from a covered area at the range. This modification sends the brass forward instead of upward; very annoying when the cases are hitting the metal roof overhead.
The gas tube modification is conceptually not difficult to do but the gas tube is very hard; you can't use CT twist drills on this curved surface. Cobalt drills work well although doing this at the range with your hand held drill risks breaking the drill in the tube. You can buy a spare gas tube so this modification does not have to be permanent. It works but I was not able to get the spent casings to accumulate in a neat pile probably because I didn't go quite far enough enlarging the holes. Since there may be some significant performance differences in ammunition, you need to be cautious about overdoing this one in case your test ammunition is the most energetic.
The most useful modification in the sticky is the production of 5 round clips. This is easy to do and very effective.

ummm ....This works better..Cause your rounds don't fall out after you pull the dime out ;)

20151220_175237_zpsekgmclcs.jpg~original
 
Instead of drilling, why not block off where the gas tube meets the gas port with a plug? Then you can drill a hole in that to adjust how much gas pushes on the gas piston. And it's reversible too...
 
Instead of drilling, why not block off where the gas tube meets the gas port with a plug? Then you can drill a hole in that to adjust how much gas pushes on the gas piston. And it's reversible too...

This can be done but you run the risk of putting obstructions in your bore if you're not very careful. You also run the risk of damaging your chrome lining which may cause the lining to wear out of the bore very quickly.
 
I'm thinking not near the bore,, but near where the gas tube attaches to the gas block. Probably have to thread the plug in there, otherwise it would get launched at the piston.
 
This can be done but you run the risk of putting obstructions in your bore if you're not very careful. You also run the risk of damaging your chrome lining which may cause the lining to wear out of the bore very quickly.

While I understand where possible bore obstructions would come from, how exactly would a plug damage the chrome lining of the bore?

Furthermore, what material would even be suitable for a plug that could withstand the high heat and pressure without degrading. I can't think of one.
 
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